Got an electric problem????


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Old 11-27-09, 04:13 PM
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Got an electric problem????

I have an existing pool light that has 2 wire coming into it 1 black (HOT) & 1 white. That's all that is in the box for the pool light. I want to add a box on top with a switch to power a flood light for my grill & yard. I ran 2 wire up to the new flood light from switch box. I must be doing something wrong because when I turn on my flood light my pool light comes on also. Both are very dim. I need to know from the experts on how to do this the right way. How can this be done without pulling new wire to the pool light. That would be near impossible. I've been looking online & maybe a 3 way to power 2nd switch?

Thanks,

Craig
 
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Old 11-27-09, 04:46 PM
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You wired the light in series. You need come off existing box with a black and white of what ever approved wiring method you are using. (conduit with THWN, UF,) Then run another black and white to the new light. At the new switch, the whites will be tied together, and the blacks will each land on one screw of the new switch.

The only issue with this setup is the new light will be slaved by the pool light. IE: you will only be able to turn on the new light when the pool light is on. The only way to avoid this is to get another hot from the box where the pool light is controlled and run your new wires from there.
 
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Old 11-27-09, 08:07 PM
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OK what about both lights off of the exisiting switch for the pool light? The way you have descibed is what I did. What is happening is when I turn on the new switch for the flood light the pool light also comes on shortly after I throw the switch and the switch for that is off. They are both dim also. If I turn on the pool light first the flood light from the new switch won't come on at all. I got something screwed up.
 
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Old 11-28-09, 12:37 AM
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I just want to make it clear here the swimming pool luminaires are very strict with codes they must have GFCI no expects on this one.

I don't know if you can get this work in three way format due you only have black and white conductors there and is there is bare ground or green conductor there ? This question is very important part due safety issue will arise very fast.

Do you have a switch in the house that control the pool luminarie { a single pole switch } ? if so then do you want to converted to three way by have a switch at the house and one near the pool area ? If that the case you will have to change the cable or add a new conductor in the conduit { pipe }

Which type of pool lumiaire it have inpool or just a couple of post luminaires ? if inpool version you probly hit the isolating transformer which it will restrict the amout of current on secondary side so I know most are rated either 300 or 600 watts one of the two so if you go over it will go dim.

If you have voltmeter can you read the line voltage without anything hook up first then second reading with pool luminaire on ?

here the diagram I hope you can read this pretty clear



But the conductor colours should be pretty clear to see how it hook up this part is very important and you see the keyless socket as I put up the drawing that can go to the pool and your yard luminaires only if you don't have isoliating transfomer.

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 11-28-09, 01:25 AM
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switch looped interecpted ?

you should have tapped power from the switch box, but I suspect the switch box has a switch loop and thus no neutral, so like Tony says you have wired the flood light in series to the pool light

at the switch if you only had 2 wires, what color were they?


Usually in wall pool fixtures are GFCI protected upline, and are isolated via a brass junction box from the pool to the under ground conduits ( brass conduit going to the pool, pvc going to the junction box ). From the junction box the fixture is sealed and has a long s/o cord to the junction box where it is junctioned to the incoming wire, black ( hot ) white ( neutral ) and green ( ground ), from there it will be feed from the LOAD side of a GFCI receptacle ( or GFCI breaker in a electrical panel ).

you can intercept the wire on the LOAD side of the GFCI to feed you pool light, but somewhere in the run there might be another junction box where you will find the hot, the neutral and the ground wire, it is there where you tap off for power and can either put another switch or convert the single switch to 2 switches, one for BBQ and one for the pool.
 
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Old 11-28-09, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by french277V View Post
I just want to make it clear here the swimming pool luminaires are very strict with codes they must have GFCI no expects on this one.

I don't know if you can get this work in three way format due you only have black and white conductors there and is there is bare ground or green conductor there ? This question is very important part due safety issue will arise very fast.

Do you have a switch in the house that control the pool luminarie { a single pole switch } ? if so then do you want to converted to three way by have a switch at the house and one near the pool area ? If that the case you will have to change the cable or add a new conductor in the conduit { pipe }

Which type of pool lumiaire it have inpool or just a couple of post luminaires ? if inpool version you probly hit the isolating transformer which it will restrict the amout of current on secondary side so I know most are rated either 300 or 600 watts one of the two so if you go over it will go dim.

If you have voltmeter can you read the line voltage without anything hook up first then second reading with pool luminaire on ?

here the diagram I hope you can read this pretty clear



But the conductor colours should be pretty clear to see how it hook up this part is very important and you see the keyless socket as I put up the drawing that can go to the pool and your yard luminaires only if you don't have isoliating transfomer.

Merci,Marc

First off there is a ground green wire in the box. There is no switch for pool light in the house only 1 outside. It is an in-pool light. I will try to get a reading on voltage also. I have one but it's not to high tech.




Originally Posted by mikerios View Post
you should have tapped power from the switch box, but I suspect the switch box has a switch loop and thus no neutral, so like Tony says you have wired the flood light in series to the pool light

at the switch if you only had 2 wires, what color were they?


Usually in wall pool fixtures are GFCI protected upline, and are isolated via a brass junction box from the pool to the under ground conduits ( brass conduit going to the pool, pvc going to the junction box ). From the junction box the fixture is sealed and has a long s/o cord to the junction box where it is junctioned to the incoming wire, black ( hot ) white ( neutral ) and green ( ground ), from there it will be feed from the LOAD side of a GFCI receptacle ( or GFCI breaker in a electrical panel ).

you can intercept the wire on the LOAD side of the GFCI to feed you pool light, but somewhere in the run there might be another junction box where you will find the hot, the neutral and the ground wire, it is there where you tap off for power and can either put another switch or convert the single switch to 2 switches, one for BBQ and one for the pool.

The wires are black, white & green ground. There is a box outside the pool in the bushes that most likely is the junction box. You talk about tapping off at the junction box and put a switch to convert single switch to 2 switch. Can you elaborate?
 
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Old 11-28-09, 12:42 PM
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Thanks for the help. Problem fixed. I ended up pulling new wire from junction box to 2nd switch box. Now it all has it's own power source.

Craig
 
 

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