Need Help Wiring a Digital Timer Switch


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Old 12-22-09, 05:04 PM
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Need Help Wiring a Digital Timer Switch

Hello, I've been reading through previous posts to try to get help, but I think I just need to post my particular situation...

I'm trying to connect a digital timer switch (GE model #:15086) in place of standard switch that control multiple outdoor lights. They're also controlled by another switch in the garage.

Here's what comes out of the wall:
1 Green Wire (ground)
1 White Wire (was connected on the side of the old switch with only one connection near the ground)
2 Black Wires (were both connected to the Common connection on the old switch)
1 Red Wire (was connected to the same side of the Common side of the old switch)

Here's the directions from the new switch and a diagram:
1. Connect the Hot/Live wire of main power to the Black wire from Timer
2. Connect both the Neutral wires of main power and Load to the White wire from Timer.
3. Connect the Hot/Live wire of Load to the Red wire from Timer.
4. Connect Ground wire to the Green wire from Timer.

I've tried many different combinations of connections, but can't get this right. Any suggestions

 
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Old 12-22-09, 05:20 PM
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Here's the directions from the new switch and a diagram:
1. Connect the Hot/Live wire of main power to the Black wire from Timer
2. Connect both the Neutral wires of main power and Load to the White wire from Timer.
3. Connect the Hot/Live wire of Load to the Red wire from Timer.
4. Connect Ground wire to the Green wire from Timer.
These seem to be instructions for a light or lights controlled from a single location. You need a timer for a three way circuit.
1 White Wire (was connected on the side of the old switch with only one connection near the ground)
2 Black Wires (were both connected to the Common connection on the old switch)
1 Red Wire (was connected to the same side of the Common side of the old switch)
Different switches have connections in different places. The way to describe it is what color wires were on the two traveler connections and most important what color wire on the common. The common will be the odd colored screw usually a dark colored screw. Also tell us all the wires in the box not just those connected to the switch.
 
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Old 12-22-09, 06:00 PM
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Thanks for taking a look and replying. This is all very new to me.

After reading your reply, my next question would be if I can disable/disconnect the other switch because I never use it?

Here's my best description of the box ... There are 4 switches and 3 of them are 3-way switches (including the one I'm replacing). Behind the switches, there are multiple conduits that have white, black, and bare copper wires coming out of them. A couple have red wires coming out of them. There is also 4 places where some white wires are connected with wire nuts.

I'll try to better describe the wires connected to the switch:

One of the black wires was connected to the Common screw. Another black wire was connected into the switch directly behind that screw. A red wire was connected directly into the switch on the same side as the black wires. A white wire was connected directly into the switch on the other side of the switch. I don't know which ones are the traveler wires. Is there a way to tell?

I hope this better describes what's going on in the switch box.
 
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Old 12-22-09, 06:51 PM
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If code does not require the second switch it can be eliminated. How will be determined by the wiring at the lights and other switch. It may be better to look at the lights first.
One of the black wires was connected to the Common screw. Another black wire was connected into the switch directly behind that screw.
One of those blacks is probably the hot. You can verify by measuring voltage to the neutral bundle.
 
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Old 12-22-09, 07:11 PM
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Thanks again. This thread and some other sites are helping me understand this much better. I think I can identify the proper wires for the switch now and I'll have to disconnect the other switch.

Maybe my last question ... When it says "Connect the neutral wires of main power...", does that mean use one of the white wires from the bundle?
 
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Old 12-22-09, 08:07 PM
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When it says "Connect the neutral wires of main power...", does that mean use one of the white wires from the bundle?
No. It means add it to the neutral bundle. Note: The white wire to the current 3-way switch is not a neutral.
 
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Old 12-23-09, 03:16 AM
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I think I got this side right now...

- Green from old switch -> Ground
- White (wrapped in black electrical tape) -> Hot
- 2 Black -> Load
- Red is the traveler wire and isn't used since I'll disable the other switch
- Connect the white wire from the new switch to the neutral bundle

For disabling the other switch, is it as easy as easy as disconnecting the wires and capping them? Or, do I need to figure out the exact configuration before doing anything with that one?
 
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Old 12-23-09, 07:05 AM
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If you have line to the switch you are working on then load, the lights, are connected to the common of the second 3-way switch. Depending on how it is wired you may be able to change it at the lights or you may have to change it at the second 3-way switch. That’s why I asked for the wiring at the lights and switch. If you don't mind leaving the second switch box easiest to do it there.

The wire at the second switch that is to the common would be connected to one of the two travelers and that traveler at the first switch would become your load wire, the wire to the light. The other traveler is capped and not used.
 
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Old 12-23-09, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ray2047
The wire at the second switch that is to the common would be connected to one of the two travelers and that traveler at the first switch would become your load wire, the wire to the light. The other traveler is capped and not used.
I'm not at home now, so I can't verify the connections at the other switch or lights, but I've been thinking about this a lot and reading up on 3-way switches...

The other switch is never used and won't be. So, could I just disconnect/cap one of the travelers where I'm installing the timer. Then, make sure the other switch is in the right position to make the connection between the common and the correct traveler?

Also, does it matter which neutral bundle I connect the timer too? I'm assuming the closest one is the one I need, but I'm curious if I have the option.
 
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Old 12-23-09, 11:30 AM
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The other switch is never used and won't be. So, could I just disconnect/cap one of the travelers where I'm installing the timer. Then, make sure the other switch is in the right position to make the connection between the common and the correct traveler?
It would work. Electrically it would be the same but if the switch ever got bumped you might not be there to explain why the light wasn't working. Save someone else a hassle and use a wire nut. You can either replace with a blanl cover plte or leave the disconnected switch in place with a note attached.
Also, does it matter which neutral bundle I connect the timer too? I'm assuming the closest one is the one I need, but I'm curious if I have the option.
If only one breaker supplies all the circuits in the switch box there should only be one bundle of neutral wires in the box. If more then one circuit the neutral must go to the neutral bundle that is with the breaker for the hot of the circuit you are wiring.

Note: The opoisite is true for grounds. All grounds even from seperate circuits must be tied together.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 12-23-09 at 02:10 PM.
 

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