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Replacing line voltage controlled HRV with low voltage controlled HRV

Replacing line voltage controlled HRV with low voltage controlled HRV

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  #1  
Old 02-17-10, 10:04 PM
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Replacing line voltage controlled HRV with low voltage controlled HRV

I am replacing an old Vanee 200 heat recovery ventilator with a Greentek SS 3.12. The older Vanee was controlled by line voltage switches and a humidistat. The Greentek has the low voltage controller with low voltage switches and humidistat. My question is: Can I use the 14/2 standard cabling that is already in the walls to connect the new low voltage wiring. The new bathroom switch has three wire connector. Can I use the 2 wires and the bare ground from the cable that is already attached to the old standard switch to hook up the new Greentek switch. The main Greentek controller needs 4 wires. Can I use the solid wires from the 14/2 cable to wire this to the controller as well?

Thanks....
Jim
 
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  #2  
Old 02-18-10, 03:46 AM
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Personally, I would just fish some thermostat wire and use that for your application.

Do you have 4 wires available for this already? Is the 120V feed at the switch or at the ventilator?

If the thermostat/humidistat is like any other t-stat, it'll be difficult to land #14's on the terminals.

You can always use the #14 then pigtail t-stat wire to make connections.
 
  #3  
Old 02-18-10, 05:44 AM
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There are 3 wires available if you include the bare ground wire at one switch, and 4 wires and 2 grounds at the thermostat. The 120 feed is at the ventilator. I had planned to pigtail the #14 with the recommended #18 thermostat wire at the thermostat and the switch box. I'd prefer that solution to fishing new wire as long as there are no possible issues with issues with voltage, amperage or resistance in the system.
Thanks...
 
  #4  
Old 02-18-10, 06:12 AM
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As long as all the line voltage connections have been removed you can use the existing cables. The thing is that anyone who even looks at the installation afterwards is going to say, "What the heck kind of nutjob wired this?" If that doesn't bother you (and remember, you might be saying the same exact thing a few years down the road) then go ahead.

Me, I'd spend the few dollars and hours to do it right.
 
  #5  
Old 02-24-10, 11:32 AM
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Just to complete the thread...I finished the project using the original 14/2 cable using 18/4 low voltage cable for pigtailing at the switches and a junction box with the same arrangement at the appliance. Everything is up and working. I agree it would have been "nicer" to use all new low voltage, but the post and beam framework would have made fishing cable more pain than I could bear, :-). Thanks for all your input
 
  #6  
Old 02-24-10, 03:00 PM
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There is nothing wrong safety wise on what you did. Rest easy.
 
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