adding floodlights


  #121  
Old 04-06-10, 09:50 AM
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Talking

I'm pretty sure they are dual use connectors silver...
Reply With Quote

Im not entirely serious. I just had to make at least one reply to this long forum ;]
 
  #122  
Old 04-16-10, 10:38 AM
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Hi Everyone,

We have crossed the 2 week mark, and as of last night, the 130V bulbs are still working fine (knock on wood).

I'll post again in a week. If we go 3 weeks, that will definitely be longer than any previous bulb has lasted.

Thanks!
Andy
 
  #123  
Old 04-16-10, 01:31 PM
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good to hear!..........................
 
  #124  
Old 04-18-10, 07:47 PM
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Well, it was too good to be true.

Day 18 - One light burned out.

I'll take it out and take a picture of it tomorrow.

I just can't get over the fact that it is so predictable. 14-21 days after install, one will burn out. If it was random, I'd think voltage spike, or a strong vibration, etc. It doesn't matter what bulb I put in there, it still goes out 2-3 weeks after install.

Let me know your thoughts. I'm going to try and figure out how to return these $10 bulbs.

Andy
 
  #125  
Old 04-18-10, 08:13 PM
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This is troubling... your only getting about 250 hours per bulb

heres my idea...Install a rotary Dimmer-rheostat on after the photo cell but before the light. Set the dimmer to about 80 percent or lower...whatever suites your taste.

this will tell us if its voltage or vibration
 
  #126  
Old 04-21-10, 08:45 AM
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Second bulb burned out.

I'll try and get pictures tonight. I've been busy the past few nights.

Braether3 - I'm not sure I have any room for a dimmer-rheostat. The photo cell and light blub wires are packed in that white junction box on the outside of the house. Where would I install it?

Any other ideas are greatly appreciated. I'm getting real sick of throwing money at this. It's pretty frustrating.
 
  #127  
Old 04-21-10, 11:44 AM
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Maybe vibration from the garage door opener as Marc suggested.
 
  #128  
Old 04-21-10, 11:54 AM
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Thanks, ray.

I just can't believe that it takes exactly 2-3 weeks of vibration to kill them. It should be one random vibration that is stronger than the rest, which would happen at a random time.

I'm up to consider anything as you all are the experts, but it doesn't make logical sense to me to be vibration or voltage because it is very consistant time for the burnout.

It seems like they are just burning too fast. As if there was too much power to them. The fixture says up to 150W bulbs though, so I don't think that's wrong. Again, if you all don't mind scrolling through my install...is there anything that I did that would cause this?

I'm going to head home right now and take pictures over lunch. Hopefully, that will give us some insight.

Thanks!
Andy
 
  #129  
Old 04-21-10, 12:52 PM
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K, here's the bulb...


It looks like the filament disconnected from the base. I guess this does point to vibration, but again, I just can't believe it doesn't happen at random.

The first time a bulb died, we were on vacation and came back to a bulb being out. So there was no movement from the garage door for a few days leading to the burn out.

Let me know what you think. Marc, let me know of your magic bulb that can help if you're confident it's vibration.

Andy
 

Last edited by awk316; 04-21-10 at 01:19 PM.
  #130  
Old 04-21-10, 01:31 PM
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My suggestion is to get an inexpensive dimmer and connect it between the photocell red lead and the lamp supply. Mount the dimmer inside the garage, you may be able to do it on the junction box by using an "extension ring" and a single gang "mud ring". When the lights come on at night dial the dimmer down to just a noticeable dimming from full brightness. Cost should be less than $15.
 
  #131  
Old 04-21-10, 01:50 PM
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Thanks furd. This seems in line with Braether3.

I'll have to go to HD and see what an extension ring and single gang mud ring is. I'll check that out and report back.

Thanks,
Andy
 
  #132  
Old 04-21-10, 02:27 PM
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This is the box extension. (Image courtesy of Grainger.)


This is the mud ring.
 
  #133  
Old 04-21-10, 03:04 PM
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Perfect, thanks.

The problem is that my cable is going into the face of the junction box, right were this would go...


I guess there may be enough cable to reroute the cable to the side of the extension.
 
  #134  
Old 04-21-10, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by awk316
K, here's the bulb...


It looks like the filament disconnected from the base. I guess this does point to vibration, but again, I just can't believe it doesn't happen at random.

The first time a bulb died, we were on vacation and came back to a bulb being out. So there was no movement from the garage door for a few days leading to the burn out.

Let me know what you think. Marc, let me know of your magic bulb that can help if you're confident it's vibration.

Andy
Rubbing on the magic bulb globe .,,,


It say viberations

Ok if you did see the filment support they are deformed or move to diffrent place so the viberations can deforum it.

Now as Furd and other did suggest dimmer and set that on 70 to 80% brightness that will last much longer and less senstive to viberations.

I going to dig up few info for viberation isolators so give me a brief time I will find a soluation for ya.

Merci,Marc
 
  #135  
Old 04-28-10, 04:40 PM
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Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to post an update. I haven't done the dimmer yet as I've had my hands full with installing a waterfall in my backyard. Of course, there are leaks, so I'm working on those.

As for this, I'm thinking of three options:
1. Dimmer as mentioned.
2. New bulb for vibration resistant.
3. Remove photo sensor as troubleshooting.

I'm thinking of taking out the photo sensor and see if that impacts anything. This is the one thing that is out of the ordinary, so maybe it has something to do with it. If I remove it, and I get more than 200 hrs or so (about a week on 24/7), I know that the sensor is the issue. Then I can just install a light switch or something else.

I'll likely tackle this in a week or so when I get the fountain figured out.

Thanks for the help!
Andy
 
  #136  
Old 05-11-10, 02:45 PM
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Hey Guys,

Sorry, I was out of town on vacation. If you've never been to Maui, go. Fouth time there and it never gets old.

Anyways, tonight I will remove the photocell in an effort elimiate/prove it as the problem. I will put in 2 new bulbs and hope to get >250 hours (currenlty getting 12 hrs x 20 days)out of them. If the photocell is what is causing my problem, these bulbs should last beyond 10 days or so (being on 24/7).

If this does solve the issue, I will then install a timer switch in my garage to turn them on and off.

I'll keep everyone posted!

Thanks,
Andy
 
  #137  
Old 05-11-10, 02:54 PM
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i have no confidence that that will solve the problem... its vibration or voltage and by dimming the bulbs to about 80 percent you should kill both birds with one stone...

being dimmer the filaments wont get as hot and therefore shouldnt break as easy if subjected to vibration....it all else fails you might be better off going with edison base spotlights
 
  #138  
Old 05-11-10, 02:58 PM
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Thanks for the thoughts, Braether3.

Can you post a pic of what a type of dimmer you're thinking of?

Thanks,
Andy
 
  #139  
Old 05-11-10, 03:05 PM
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Just something like this...?

 
  #140  
Old 05-11-10, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by awk316
Thanks for the thoughts, Braether3.

Can you post a pic of what a type of dimmer you're thinking of?

Thanks,
Andy

made by leviton
Now I'm not guaranteeing this will be the cigar but me and furd think it might be...and this is a pretty low cost dimmer..

Now if your wire doesnt reach to the side and you cant make it reach you could easily use your spare parts and place a j box on the truss or wherever and splice into the this box.

Next wire power out of the photo cell into the dimmer...and onto the lights. use the mud-ring and a faceplate to mount the dimmer as furd suggested.

Good luck any questions just ask!
 
  #141  
Old 05-11-10, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by awk316
Just something like this...?

haha same picture...nice..
 
  #142  
Old 05-11-10, 03:10 PM
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Thanks!

I'll swing by HD after work and see what they have and hopefully I can get it done tonight before the sun goes down.
 
  #143  
Old 05-11-10, 05:31 PM
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Well, good news and frustrating news...

The good news is that my house isn't some 4th dimension where the laws of electricity don't apply.

I opened up the light box on the outside to check the voltage, and looking at me right in the face is the negative wire from the light floating in the box. It had come loose from the wire nut.

I'm assuming this was the issue.

I added new lights, so let the 20 day countdown begin. If this is the problem, sorry for wasting everyone's time.

I'll hang onto the dimmer I bought just incase.

Andy
 
  #144  
Old 05-11-10, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by awk316
Well, good news and frustrating news...

I opened up the light box on the outside to check the voltage, and looking at me right in the face is the negative wire from the light floating in the box. It had come loose from the wire nut.
Andy
could be the problem...I'm not sure.. keep us updated
 
  #145  
Old 05-11-10, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by awk316
Well, good news and frustrating news...

The good news is that my house isn't some 4th dimension where the laws of electricity don't apply.

I opened up the light box on the outside to check the voltage, and looking at me right in the face is the negative wire from the light floating in the box. It had come loose from the wire nut.

I'm assuming this was the issue.

I added new lights, so let the 20 day countdown begin. If this is the problem, sorry for wasting everyone's time.

I'll hang onto the dimmer I bought just incase.

Andy
Sorry, I meant GROUND wire, not negative.
 
  #146  
Old 05-12-10, 03:18 PM
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then its a very slight chance in heck of that being the problem...lol...good luck...have your dimmer ready
 
  #147  
Old 05-12-10, 03:49 PM
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Thanks for the info. Dimmer is ready.

I bought the dimmer, a mud-ring ,and the face plate as well as a separate junction box incase I have to go that route.

Based on your comments, I'll expect the lights to burn out in the 20 day window, then install the dimmer.

Luckily, 20 days is within HD's return policy!
 
  #148  
Old 05-12-10, 05:44 PM
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we will see! our luck so far hasn't been that good... but don't get too discouraged given the circumstances. Its doesn't seem to be anything you did wrong. Hopefully your next electrical project doesn't give you any sad surprises like this...
 
  #149  
Old 05-20-10, 09:31 AM
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Well, I'm sure not to the surprise of anyone here, the light burned out again. This time, in just 1 week. It's the light with the photocell in it (previous reference light #1). Light #2 is still on.

Dimmer it is. I'm going to try and install it over lunch today. We'll see how that goes.

Andy
 
  #150  
Old 05-20-10, 04:23 PM
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If I am reading this right that was a brand new 130 volt bulb right ?

I am thinking that the 100 watt halogen bulb may be too hot for that luminaire and I am sure there is a 75 watt halogen bulb it should fit in there.

But try the dimmer first, hook the dimmer on load side of photocell so that way it will function properly.

I have see few halogen lumiare get too hot and they can burnt out early than what should be.

Merci,Marc
 
  #151  
Old 05-20-10, 06:57 PM
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Thanks!

I agree with you as well, even though the light says it can handle 100 W.

One of the lights burned out again. This time, just 1 week.

I'll try the dimmer this weekend.

Thanks guys!

Andy
 
  #152  
Old 05-21-10, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by awk316
Thanks!

I agree with you as well, even though the light says it can handle 100 W.

One of the lights burned out again. This time, just 1 week.

I'll try the dimmer this weekend.

Thanks guys!

Andy
With the dimmer you should combat both the high wattage and excess heat and and also the possible sensitivity to vibration
 
  #153  
Old 05-22-10, 02:31 PM
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Just to throw one more idea in there, you are being careful not to touch the glass envelope of the lamp with your fingers, right? You use a tissue or packaging to handle the lamp when you install it?

Halogen lamps get extremely hot and the oils from your fingers can actually boil on the glass and cause premature failure. Usually the lamp will shatter, which obviously yours isn't doing... but I'd still be careful during installation nonetheless.

This is usually more of a concern with higher wattage halogen lamps (500w-1000w), but the instructions on all halogen lamps caution you to not touch with your bare fingers, and to use a bit of rubbing alcohol to clean them if needed.

(I'm rooting for you and the dimmer by the way)
 
  #154  
Old 05-23-10, 11:27 AM
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Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the posts.

I've been sure to use tissues when touching the bulbs as this was also raised earlier in the long post.

For two reasons, I thought I'd try 75W bulbs before installing the dimmer:
1. I was short on time this weekend and thought I'd try a quick fix.
2. Although the dimmer may solve the issue, I have a hard time installing it because the lights should work with out it. It's like adding a bandaid to a larger problem. These lights say 100W and they are made for outdoor lighting. They should work without a dimmer. It may be likely that these lights are just a poor design and I need to try something else.

Anyways, I put in the 75W bulbs on Friday night...


On Saturday night, we went a friend's for dinner and got back late, and I noticed the lights were both not on. The sprinklers were supposed to come on early Sunday as well, and they didn't. I went out to the sprinklers (on the same circuit as the lights) and noticed it didn't have power. I checked the circuit breaker, it was on. The garage door had worked the night before. In the end, I had to hit the reset on the GFCI in the garage. Then I remembered the garage door was on the circuit before the GFCI, so that's why that was working. I walked out to the light and I saw this...



What the hell!? Light bulb blown up, glass covering the light blown up, and triped the GFCI.

I've removed both lights until I figure out what is going on. Can severe heat cause the bulb/glass to blow and trip the GFCI? Or is this a bigger electrical issue? I think vibration can be taken out of the equation.

My wife is now freaked out and thinks I should call an electrician. I'm holding out pending replys from everyone.

I hope you understand my reluctancy to add a dimer. I really appreciate all the help and I don't like not doing what you guys say. I just want to make sure the dimmer isn't covering a larger issue. As this is my first electrical project, I always tend to think it's something I did wrong, and I want to try and find that without masking it.

Thanks everyone!!!

Andy
 
  #155  
Old 05-23-10, 12:14 PM
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Stupid question I know but you mentioned sprinklers. No way the the sprinklers could hit the light is there? Maybe blown by wind?
 
  #156  
Old 05-23-10, 12:23 PM
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No, I don't think that's possible. I've never seen moisture anywhere near the lights. Also, when the blow up happened last night, the sprinklers hadn't been on while the 75W were installed.

The prevailing winds are away from the lights (from behind the house).
 
  #157  
Old 05-23-10, 03:50 PM
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Is both luminaire safety glass is broken or just one ?

If both I have a feeling there is a thermal damage { cycling from hot to cold and can crack the glass }

Did you save the recepctes from that big box store where you got it from ?

If so and make a extra copy of the photo of broken safety lens and take that broken luminaire to big box store and I think they should able exchange it without issue.

Or get rid of that and get the PAR 38 bulbs with WP socket that you can get them in halogen verison as well but they will last much longer than what you are going thru with exsting luminaire plus expensive bulbs and yes IIRC there is PAR30 bulb as well but I think the PAR 30 top of wattage cutoff is 75 watts while the PAR 38 go much higher.

Merci,Marc
 
  #158  
Old 05-23-10, 07:26 PM
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Thanks, Marc.

I had exactly the same thought today. Only 1 of the 2 blew up. Also, it was much colder last night than it has been in quite a while. I've come to the decision that I didn't do anything wrong in running the wires for these lights (based on all of the feedback from everyone on this site) and that the lights I bought are just POS.

I went to HD today and bought normal PAR 38 fixtures/bulbs and connected them. I completely agree that there is a heat issue and the lights I bought are very poorly designed for the heat given off by the G8 100W Halogen bulbs. All the heat is trapped in the bulb area between the metal cone and the glass covering.

My other thought was to use the ones I had, but without the glass so the heat has somewhere to go.

I'll see how I like the look of the PAR 38 and how long they last. They're under the overhang, so looks should not be a problem. Here's the new look:



I'll take a night shot tonight.

Thanks Everyone!!!

Andy
 
  #159  
Old 05-23-10, 07:52 PM
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Andy.,

I should mention but I figured that you allready noticed that the PAR bulbs do come in few verisons one is narrow spot , then have standard spot then narrow flood and wide flood so if the light is way too contrated sorta like a bright disc then try to swap over to flood that will make the area more lit up better.

For low to med mounting I use narrow flood most of my time unless it was used for highlited then swap over to spot verison for high mount 90% of my time I will use spots.

Merci,Marc
 
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Old 05-23-10, 07:54 PM
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Thanks, Marc.

I didn't notice that, so thanks for the info.

I had difficulty finding PAR 38 at HD, so the guy just showed me the ones I bought. I'll go back and look for the others.

Thanks!
Andy
 
 

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