Replacing a toggle switch

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Old 05-15-10, 10:59 AM
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Replacing a toggle switch

I am replacing the switch on my Delta sanding center because it would not turn off the motor when switched to off. I am completely lost when it comes to anything other than the very basics with electrical connections. I wanted a quick fix so I went to Home Depot and secured a replacement switch. I needed a single pole on-off switch with 4 connections. When I took the switch off, I didn't make any notes about the connections and when I rewired it won't start the motor. I tired wiring several different ways without success. I made a rough drawing (not to scale). I would appreciate any help or adivse as to how the wires should be connected or are these two switches interchangable.
 
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Old 05-15-10, 11:07 AM
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Your original switch shows 120 volt, the new switch is 240 volt. Is your machine wired for 120? If so the neutral would not be wired to the switch.
 
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Old 05-15-10, 11:15 AM
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Just to expand a bit on what PC Boss replied. You wrote:
I needed a single pole on-off switch with 4 connections
But a single pole swith has two connections not four.

Was there a center off on the old switch? Was it reversable?
 
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Old 05-15-10, 11:26 AM
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Ray2047 and PCboss, thanks for the quick responses. Sorry if I misinformed you. Both the original swith and the replacement I bought were 20 amp 120 volt switches. Both have 4 connecting screws. The original had both blacks and both whites connected to the switches on individual connectors on the back of the switch. The green wire grounds are both connected to the metal stand. The machine is wired for 120. The motor is a dual voltage 115/230 volt motor.
Hope that helps, if not let me know.
 
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Old 05-15-10, 12:15 PM
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On the Line / Load leads , connect White-to-White and Black-to-Black to determine that the machine will operate without the switch.

Is the machine cord-connected ?
 
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Old 05-15-10, 12:43 PM
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The machiine is cord connected. I can connect white to white and blk to blk and see if it runs without the switch.
 
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Old 05-16-10, 04:15 PM
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I did connect the two whites and the two blacks and plugged in and the motor runs.
So if I wire the switch correctly it should work. Is there a specific location placement for each of the whites and blacks. All the connections are brass. I should note that both the original and replacement switch are for 20 amp 125 volts.
On the card for the GB switch it refers to line A and charge A and line B and charge B. I presume one of them is referring to power in and the other as power out to the motor.
thanks!
 
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Old 05-16-10, 04:28 PM
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The whites do not need to be on the switch when it is used on 120v. The whites should be wire nutted together. You really only need a single pole switch since this is 120v. If you wish to use the 2 pole switch just use one pole for the black wires. There should be a diagram on the switch which shows which pair of screws is for each pole. Just put one black on each of those screws.

You only need the two-pole switch with the whites on it for 240v operation.
 
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Old 05-16-10, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ray2047 View Post
The whites should not be on the switch. The whites should be wire nutted together. you really only need a single pole switch since this is 120v. If you wish to use the 2 pole switch just use one pole for the black wires. There should be a diagram on the switch which shows which pair of screws is for each pole. Just put one black on each of those screws.

You only need the two-pole switch with the whites on it for 240v operation.
Thanks Ray. On the original were the 4 wires connected because the motor could be coverted to 220? The card diagram simply describes the wires as Line A cable, line A charge, line B cable, and line b charge. Are the charge lines the black lines?
 
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Old 05-16-10, 04:40 PM
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See the edit to my post for the answer to your first question. I have never heard the word "charge" used in refference to a general purpose switch. What is the voltage rating? Is it an AC switch?
 
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Old 05-16-10, 05:03 PM
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The switch is identical to the original other than the replacements only cost 5.55 and a delta swith coast 54.00. Both are rated 10 A 277 vac / 20a 125 vac / 1 1/2 hp 125-250 AC. both have 4 wire connector terminals. The picture below shows all the info that was provided with the new switch. Hopefully the picture helps.
 
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Old 05-16-10, 05:28 PM
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picture doesn't show is reply above.
 
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Old 05-16-10, 06:42 PM
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What is the horsepower rating for the switch you are replacing? Don't know why your picture didn't show since it worked before. before but I'd guess you didn't use the "direct" URL from the sharing site.
 
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Old 05-16-10, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ray2047 View Post
What is the horsepower rating for the switch you are replacing? Don't know why your picture didn't show since it worked before. before but I'd guess you didn't use the "direct" URL from the sharing site.
It does show now, puzzling? Anyway, I listed the HP rating for both on the original drawing, 1-1/2 Hp. anyway through your suggestions and others I ended up connecting the 2 blacks to the backside right of the switch and the two whites to the other side. Figured since it's just an interupt switch it should work and it did.
Thanks for the help! I'm glad I found this forum.
 
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