Need more power in garage keeps blowing circuit

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  #1  
Old 12-05-10, 10:08 PM
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Cool Need more power in garage keeps blowing circuit

I recently did a little remodeling to my garage adding 12 48" flourescent lights i have a air compressor that dims all the lights when it is turned on its a 4 foot tall compressor also have a wall mount wet dry vac battery chargers a fridge and a couple outlets for whatever
the breaker pops now and some lights in the house go off and everything in garage how can i add max power to garage ???

Thinking about putting a heater in my garage as well any suggestions???
 
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  #2  
Old 12-06-10, 03:48 AM
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Welcome to the forums! How is your garage wiring done? Is there a breaker panel (b-box)? Do you have 240 volts run to the garage, or just 120 volts.
It sounds as if the garage was wired from a receptacle in the house, which is not allowed. You need to run a circuit from your house panel to a subpanel in the garage. From there you can branch off into lighting, receptacle, dedicated circuits which will lessen the load on the present wiring.
Also consider rewiring your compressor to 240 volts. It will cut your amperage load in half on that unit. Dedicate a circuit for the fridge. Dedicate a circuit for the general receptacles and install GFCI's on them (not on fridge circuit). Dedicate a circuit for lighting.
 
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Old 12-06-10, 06:32 AM
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Is this an attached garage or detached? Do you have open slots in your main panel.
 
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Old 12-06-10, 10:18 AM
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Larry., {Chander}

Just give you a head up most states will stated that all the 120 volt circuits in the garage will required GFCI protection the extemps are very limited or nonexsting depending on what the local code required.

To OP .,

The rest of the question is the garage is attached or detached ?

That will make the diffrence on codewise.

For the heater you will need to get that manufacter info to see what voltage and amparage it will required.

Air compressor the same thing which way it is wired now at 120 volts but what amparage { I know most will required 15 amp or 20 amp circuit unless it is dual voltage verison then I will recomend that go with 240 volts }

Merci,
Marc
 
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Old 12-06-10, 01:34 PM
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Yes, concrete floor, needs GFCI, but with a dedicated fridge circuit, I just hate the false trips of a GFCI
 
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Old 12-07-10, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by chandler View Post
Yes, concrete floor, needs GFCI, but with a dedicated fridge circuit, I just hate the false trips of a GFCI
Yes. Clearly those code writer never lost a fridge full of food ($$$) because of a false trip on a GFCI. If a fridge in a kitchen doesn't need to be GFCI, why should one in the garage? And I'm looking for a meaningful difference in safey, with real world data to back it up, not a pie-in-the-sky hypothetical what-ifs.
 
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Old 12-07-10, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by RichA View Post
Yes. Clearly those code writer never lost a fridge full of food ($$$) because of a false trip on a GFCI. If a fridge in a kitchen doesn't need to be GFCI, why should one in the garage? And I'm looking for a meaningful difference in safey, with real world data to back it up, not a pie-in-the-sky hypothetical what-ifs.
It is written in 2008 NEC code cycle and I will have to look it up but I do know that all the 120 volt circuits in the garage have to be GFCI protected unless overridden by local codes.

I know many peoples want the fridge to be on non GFCI normally I don't allow that unless it have written in local codes that the only way it can get by with it.

I have a frezzer on GFCI and not tripped on me for last 12 years.

Merci,
Marc
 
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Old 12-07-10, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by RichA View Post
If a fridge in a kitchen doesn't need to be GFCI, why should one in the garage? And I'm looking for a meaningful difference in safey, with real world data to back it up, not a pie-in-the-sky hypothetical what-ifs.
There are two differences. First is that the bare concrete floor of the garage is more conductive so if a person standing in bare feet touched a charged surface he would suffer a shock, whereas kitchens usually have non-conductive flooring so chance of shock is less. The second reason is that there's a good chance that over the lifetime of the garage someone will move the fridge or not have a fridge in the garage leaving the outlet open for general-purpose use. Most people would not change that outlet back to a GFCI when they move out for example. The code is intended to make wiring systems safe for the entire practical life of the structure not just the current occupant. Combine those with the fact that GFCI technology has really improved so that actual false trips are really quite rare.
 
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Old 12-07-10, 12:24 PM
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They make temperature alarms for the refrigerator or you could easily make one for the electric circuit using a NC relay with a 120v coil.
 
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Old 12-08-10, 06:39 AM
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Another reason is the code is to protect LIFE safety, not a freezer of food.

The UL allowable leakage current is about 1/10 of what is needed to trip a GFI. If the GFI is tripping it is preventing an accident. Repair or replace the freezer.
 
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