Dayton 6k778k

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  #1  
Old 12-29-10, 06:05 PM
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Dayton 6k778k

I have a dayton 6k778k 1/3hp 115v motor unfortunaly i live in the uk which is 220v.
I have read that almost any motor can be reconfigured to run 220v or 110v and there does seem to be some unconected terminals in the back of the motor.
Does anybody know which wires to move and if its actualy posible.
Thanks
 
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Old 12-29-10, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Icehole View Post
I have a dayton 6k778k 1/3hp 115v motor unfortunaly i live in the uk which is 220v.
I have read that almost any motor can be reconfigured to run 220v or 110v and there does seem to be some unconected terminals in the back of the motor.
Does anybody know which wires to move and if its actualy posible.
Thanks
That motor is 115 volt only and cannot be changed to 220 volts.

Motor, 1/3 HP, 1725 RPM, 115 V, 48Y, ODP - Belt Drive Motors - HVAC Motors - Motors : Grainger Industrial Supply
 
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Old 12-29-10, 06:59 PM
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Also it is 60Hz not 50hz.
 
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Old 12-29-10, 08:12 PM
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Icehole.,

There is two options one is get a proper 240 volt motor to use or get a 240-120 volt transfomer to down step to 120 volts and yes the 60 HZ motor can run on 50 HZ but for limited time and duration due the 50HZ do run slower than 60 HZ verison is.


To rest of the guys here the UK do have 120 volts that useally on med to large jobsite due the safety reguations they have downstep isolated transfomer for this purpose.

{ I don't have to deal with this part in France unless something serious or super large jobsite then we will set up the same way as UK do }

Merci.
Marc
 
  #5  
Old 12-30-10, 03:22 PM
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i came across this the guy says in another thread almost every motor made has 2 windings and can be reconfigured to 240v . i have not tried it yet i am trying to find out some more info on the motor but it does seem to have unused terminals inside it up to 8 of them.




The motor should have two sets of windings inside. The leads for these windings should be behind a cover plate or in a junction box. Since the motor is currently wired for 115V, the windings should be in parallel. Write down which wires are connected to what. This is very important in case you make a mistake!

A good way to think about this is you have four wires, numbered 1 - 4. Winding one has two leads, 1 and 2. Winding 2 has two leads, 3 and 4. Right now 1 and 3 are connected to the hot, and 2 and 4 are connected to the neutral. To wire the motor in series you want 1 connected to hot1, 2 connected to 3, and 4 connected to hot2.

-EDIT- There was a mistake in my first revision. The method wouldn't work for 110-220 conversion as a mistake could burn up a winding. -TJNII

First, figure out which wires are winding pairs. This is very important as if you try to rewire it blind, you could burn a winding out. After writing down which wires were connected where, disconnect all junctions. Connect your multimeter (on resistance) to one of the wires you disconnected from the hot. Find out which wire from the neutral is paired with it. The matching lead will have a fairly low resistance. You know know which leads are 1 - 4. Wires 1 and 2 are the pair you just found, and wires 3 - 4 are the pair you didn't need to test. Wires 1 and 2 connected to the hot, and wires 3 and 4 connected to the neutral.

Connect 1 to hot1, 2 to 3, and 4 to hot2. Check the resistance across 1 and 4. If it is not about double the restance you found in the above step, you made a mistake. Re-check your wiring. The motor should now run.

If the motor tries to turn but cannot, or turns slowly while humming very loudly, wires 1 and 2 are reversed.

Do not run the motor with the windings in parallel, or run a single winding off 220V! You will burn it out!

Hope that helps.
 
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