Looking to wire my garage from my house

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  #1  
Old 01-06-11, 09:38 PM
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Looking to wire my garage from my house

Im planning on running power from the basement of my house to the detached garage thats about 40 feet away. There is a 200 amp breaker box in the house. im needing 110 and 220 out in the garage. i will be running a welder, and air compresser regularly. along with other hand tools. i have a 200 amp breacker box for the garage aswell. im just wandering what kind of wire i need will be needing and any other help would help. thanks coty
 
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  #2  
Old 01-07-11, 07:20 AM
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We need to know the amp requirements for the compressor and the welder before answering your question.

i have a 200 amp breacker box for the garage aswell
The 200 amp box gives plenty of spaces which is good but depending on actual power requirements it can be supplied from a breaker of less then 200 amps. We need to know though the amps of the welder, compressor, and any other heavy loads such as electric heat first.
 
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Old 01-08-11, 10:06 AM
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You're looking at at least 100A out there.
 
  #4  
Old 01-08-11, 10:55 AM
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i believe they both worked at the old shop with a 30 amp breaker each. i was told other places that id i ran uf-b 6/3 from the house to the shop id be ok is that true?
 
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Old 01-08-11, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MAN_N_BLACK View Post
i believe they both worked at the old shop with a 30 amp breaker each. i was told other places that id i ran uf-b 6/3 from the house to the shop id be ok is that true?
I doubt it but without knowing the amp draw of the welder and compressor and what other loads you might have it's not possible to know for sure.

As justin suggested a 100a panel may be better. Asumming a distance of 100 feet or less your probably looking at three #3 and one #8 (for ground) THWN in conduit or if you can find it #2 3-conductor UF.
 
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Old 01-09-11, 09:52 AM
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my original plan was to have a meter put on the shop aswell so then i wouldnt have to go under ground. i wanted a licensed electrician to run the wire from the box outside the shop so then the city could do what was needed from there. been trying to have someone come out and do it since october. finally haad someone give me a quote the other day and it was $1500. i thought that was really high for what needed to be done but maybe im wrong. i dont have a problem going to 100amp box if thats really what i need i was just told early in the project thats what id need so i got it. but the more and more i here its looking like 100 is all i need.
 
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Old 01-09-11, 10:37 AM
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i dont have a problem going to 100amp box if thats really what i need
The 200 amp box is fine but you probably only need to supply it with 100 amp from the house. The size of the box in the garage doesn't matter as long as it is at least as large as the supply. Even the size of the main breaker in the garage doesn't matter as long as it is at least as large as the supply since it only serves as a disconnect.

i believe they both worked at the old shop with a 30 amp breaker each.
But that doesn't tell us what we need to know. We need to know how many amps they draw. That will be on the name plates. We also need to know any other heavy amp users such as electric heaters. You really need to answer our questions before we can help.
 
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Old 01-09-11, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MAN_N_BLACK View Post
my original plan was to have a meter put on the shop aswell so then i wouldnt have to go under ground.
Most power companies will not run two separate services to one residential address. Even if they would, you'll end up likely paying more in the long run since part of your electricity bill is for the actual service, which you'd be then paying 2x.

Depending on the distance and what you had to dig through, it's really not that big a deal (as long as it's not your first electrical project). If it does happen to be a long run, it may even be worthwhile to hire someone with a backhoe or trencher to actually dig the trench, then you can lay the cable/conduit.
 
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Old 01-09-11, 03:41 PM
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FOR STARTERS I BOUGHT 2 LOTS THE HOUSE ON ONE AND THE SHOP ON THE OTHER. SO THEY DIDNT HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THAT.

THE AIR COMPRESSER SAYS 15 AMPS. I DONT HAVE THE WELDER YET IT IN THE MAIL IM BUYING ONE JUST LIKE MY FRIENDS. ITS A HOBART 210 WIRE WELDER. FREE SHIPPING — Hobart Handler® 210 Wire Feed MIG Welder with 10-Ft. Spoolgun | Wirefeed Welders | Northern Tool + Equipment

THEN THERE IS 12 SHOP LIGHTS AT .74 AMPS A PEICE. AND THEN 15 OUTLETS. THATS BOUT IT. HEAT WILL BE VIA WOOD BURNER
 
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Old 01-09-11, 05:29 PM
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Specs for your welder is here: http://www.hobartwelders.com/pdf/spe...andler_210.pdf. It indicates the welder draws 25a so with a 15 amp compressor if both were run at the same time the 60 amp sub panel your friend suggested (6-3 UF) might not be enough when you add in lights and other minor loads. A 100 amp supply to the sub panel as I outlined in post #5 may be the best option.

If you can find a breaker larger then 60 and smaller then 100 for your house panel you can probably use a supply smaller then 100a but you won't save much.
 
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Old 01-13-11, 03:32 PM
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If i used a 100amp 2 pole breaker in the house box and ran triplex urd 2,2,4 aluminum to the shop with a 100amp curciut box. The allowable amprage of the 2,2,4 is 165 direct burial/ and 120 in duct. Then ran a ground rod to the shop box

any thoughts on this?
 
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Old 01-13-11, 04:00 PM
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Not sure where your getting 165 amps (#2 is rated at 100) on 2-2-4 but either way it is not going to meet code if you feed this off your existing panel. You need a ground wire as well not just a ground rod.

If this is another service (separate meter fed by the power company) then this would be fine for 100 amps max. This might be a good option depending on the power company. Around here there is only a $12 fee for the extra service. And since it is on another lot, it makes sense.
 
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Old 01-13-11, 05:03 PM
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Not sure the purpose of that post but both examples are triplex and as been mentioned before you can not use triplex for a subpanel. You must use quadplex or conduit with THWN or UF unless you have a separate meter. Here you can get a drop for free so you would not need to buy any cable.
 
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Old 01-13-11, 06:59 PM
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I'm going to go on a limb and say those ampacities are the maximum that is allowed for power companies which are not bound by the NEC. For you and I, we have to go by the NEC table 310.16 which is 100 amps under the 90 degree. (also 310.15(b)(6) may also apply)
 
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Old 01-13-11, 10:41 PM
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Would it be better to run 2 2 2 4 aluminum "mobile home feeder" with a 90amp breaker at the house just to be safe? Run it the whole length in pvc conduit?
 
  #17  
Old 01-14-11, 07:02 AM
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That sounds like a good plan to me.

The previous cable you posted is URD "Underground Residential Distribution". It's a cable that power companies use to run from the pole to the meter. It's not typically used for much other than that because it has a bare neutral wire and doesn't have fire safety ratings that are needed for indoor use.
 
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Old 01-14-11, 07:34 AM
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Ok now that we got that under control what size pvc doyou recomend
 
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Old 01-14-11, 07:39 AM
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I wouldn't go smaller than 2".
 
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Old 01-16-11, 09:18 AM
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Ok i opened the box in the basement just to check everything out and get an idea of what i had to work with. With the 2,2,2,4 wire im looking at puting 2 of the 2's to the 2pole breaker. Then the other 2 to the neutral bar. Is this correct so far? Then the 4 will go to the ground right? Well i cant find anywhere other then the same neutral bar in the house box to put this. Any info
 
  #21  
Old 01-16-11, 09:21 AM
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At the main panel, first OCPD, and only at the main panel the ground and neutral are tied together. In that case you may place the ground in any available opening on the combined neutral/ground bar.
 
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Old 01-16-11, 09:26 AM
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Ok thats what i thought but wanted to make sure
 
  #23  
Old 01-16-11, 09:31 AM
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No problem. That's what we are here for.
 
  #24  
Old 01-17-11, 03:57 PM
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New problem menards only sells 2,2,2,4 in 500ft rolls and i only need 125ft
 
  #25  
Old 01-17-11, 04:43 PM
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Lowe's or the HD?
 
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Old 01-17-11, 05:16 PM
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Also check a local electrical supply house. I know that retail stores will kill you on cut wire. Some supply houses are not wholesale only.
 
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Old 01-17-11, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MAN_N_BLACK View Post
New problem menards only sells 2,2,2,4 in 500ft rolls and i only need 125ft
No need to use URD since your going to use conduit just use THWN. Will be easier to pull any way.
 
  #28  
Old 01-17-11, 06:04 PM
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If you are still planning on aluminum wire, you may find XHHW a bit easier to find and pull than the URD.
 
  #29  
Old 01-20-11, 09:44 AM
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I got power to the shop now. Just wandering for the 220(welder and air compresser) should i run 10-2 or 10-3
 
  #30  
Old 01-20-11, 09:50 AM
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Use #10-2 for 240V-only circuits. Most machines would be okay with #10, but exceptionally large machines may need larger wire.
 
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