upgrade to 4-wire dryer circuit?
#1
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upgrade to 4-wire dryer circuit?
I'm finishing a laundry room in my basement. I was going to simply move the dryer receptacle (3-wire) from its current location to the new laundry room (it'll be a little shorter). My house was built in mid 70's.
Do I need to upgrade to 4-wire (10/3) just because I'm moving the receptacle as part of my remodel? I originally was going to run a new circuit for the dryer but the cost of the 30 amp wire, and the messing around with a new dryer cord convinced me to just use the existing wire (less time and less money). I got a quote a while ago from a pro (part of a panel upgrade job) and he was just going to move the receptacle as well.
I just want to do this right, but I don't need to waste money if not really needed. Thanks.
Do I need to upgrade to 4-wire (10/3) just because I'm moving the receptacle as part of my remodel? I originally was going to run a new circuit for the dryer but the cost of the 30 amp wire, and the messing around with a new dryer cord convinced me to just use the existing wire (less time and less money). I got a quote a while ago from a pro (part of a panel upgrade job) and he was just going to move the receptacle as well.
I just want to do this right, but I don't need to waste money if not really needed. Thanks.
#3
I'd rather do it now than later when you have to dig into ceiling, walls, etc. to replace it when you buy a new dryer which will require a 4 wire set up. The old saying....pay me now or pay me later.
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I could still use a 3-prong cord with a new dryer, correct? Either way, I do agree that it makes sense to run new 10/3 cable and switch to 4-wire now.
I haven't noticed any special requirements for an in-wall electrical box for a 240/120v receptacle. I'm assuming I can just use the same boxes (plastic in this case) as my outlets and switches for the laundry room??? Thanks.
I haven't noticed any special requirements for an in-wall electrical box for a 240/120v receptacle. I'm assuming I can just use the same boxes (plastic in this case) as my outlets and switches for the laundry room??? Thanks.
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I'm just curious, when you say 4 wire does that include ground? We just got a new dryer and it has 4 wires if I count the ground (hot, hot, neutral, ground). Are there new ones with 4 wires plus ground and if so what would the 4th be? Otherwise which 2 wires did older plugs have? Only hot hot?
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No, when I said 4-wire previously I meant the cord having hot-hot-neutral-ground wires.
I thought the termininology for dryers was either 3-wire (hot-hot-ground cord) serviced by 10/2 cable, or 4-wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground cord) serviced with 10/3 cable. I may have the termininology messed up. Correct me if I'm mistaken.
I thought the termininology for dryers was either 3-wire (hot-hot-ground cord) serviced by 10/2 cable, or 4-wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground cord) serviced with 10/3 cable. I may have the termininology messed up. Correct me if I'm mistaken.
#7
I'm just curious, when you say 4 wire does that include ground? We just got a new dryer and it has 4 wires if I count the ground (hot, hot, neutral, ground). Are there new ones with 4 wires plus ground and if so what would the 4th be? Otherwise which 2 wires did older plugs have? Only hot hot?
#8
My advice would be to upgrade the dryer circuit now while you are able to do so without too much difficulty. Just remember to also remove your bonding jumper inside the dryer when you install the 14-30P cordset.
#9
No, when I said 4-wire previously I meant the cord having hot-hot-neutral-ground wires.
I thought the termininology for dryers was either 3-wire (hot-hot-ground cord) serviced by 10/2 cable, or 4-wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground cord) serviced with 10/3 cable. I may have the termininology messed up. Correct me if I'm mistaken.
I thought the termininology for dryers was either 3-wire (hot-hot-ground cord) serviced by 10/2 cable, or 4-wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground cord) serviced with 10/3 cable. I may have the termininology messed up. Correct me if I'm mistaken.
#11
Actually that is 10-3/G. A neutral is needed for the motor and control circuit boards that are 120v. Most driers are basically 120v machines with either gas heat or 240v electric heat.