Is this code?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Is this code?
seems like a good way to save wire. is it compliant with code in Maryland?
Last edited by moveright; 04-18-11 at 12:53 PM.
#2
It is compliant if your jurisdiction follows NEC2008 or earlier. If your jurisdiction follows NEC2011, you need to feed the lights from the switch box instead of through the switch loop as you pictured.
#3
It is correct if you want to power a GFCI receptacle and control a light via a switch. Next question, is this a junction box? Where will it be located? It must be left exposed and accessible. Will the switch and GFCI be in the same box? If so, then all this wiring can be in the switch/gfci box.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Junction box is just a double size blue nail in box with cover plate from home depot.
Junction box is only to house the wire nutted connections.
Junction box, GFCI's and switch are all in different locations.
Junction box will be locate in ceiling nailed to joist, and sheetrocked over.
GFCI's are wired constant and lights will be switched.
I'm trying to figure this out because I have (1) 12/2 wire coming to the new bathroom directly from the breaker. It needs to power (2) GFCI's and (3) recessed lights. I'm trying to do it the most economical way saving as much wire as possible (that 12/2 is expensive!). I's a small bathroom so ceiling space is limited due to the already existing gas piping as well as plumbing.
Junction box is only to house the wire nutted connections.
Junction box, GFCI's and switch are all in different locations.
Junction box will be locate in ceiling nailed to joist, and sheetrocked over.
GFCI's are wired constant and lights will be switched.
I'm trying to figure this out because I have (1) 12/2 wire coming to the new bathroom directly from the breaker. It needs to power (2) GFCI's and (3) recessed lights. I'm trying to do it the most economical way saving as much wire as possible (that 12/2 is expensive!). I's a small bathroom so ceiling space is limited due to the already existing gas piping as well as plumbing.
#5
It needs to power (2) GFCI's and (3) recessed lights.
I'm trying to do it the most economical way saving as much wire as possible
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Only one GFCI receptacle is necessary if LINE and LOAD terminals are wired correctly.
#7
Oh, so if I want four receptacles in the same box, I can use one GFCI and one regular, then just jump the regular off the GFCI?
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Hands down, worst news I've had in weeks.
I suppose that is in case of an electrical problem, there will be no non-accessible connections, or at least, to say, all connections will be accessible.
Not that I blame you lol... Just, that's horrible godawful news. well I already have a junction box right next to where I proposed to put this one and that one was to extend wires as well. It was either that, or tear out my whole brand new walls and ceiling to replace a 30 ft wire with a 40ft wire.
well, I guess if you're prepared to ask a question, you ought be prepared for any answer.
So, let's just say that I left the junction box 'exposed', the wiring diagram you provided(thanks) would suffice?
#9
So, let's just say that I left the junction box 'exposed',
Cut open the wall at the buried box, install a mudring, and a blank cover plate. The cover plate can be painted to match the surounding surface.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
No lets not just say it. Lets do it. Get a book such as Wiring Simplified available at Home Depot, Amazon and other places before doing any more wiring.
Cut open the wall at the buried box, install a mudring, and a blank cover plate. The cover plate can be painted to match the surounding surface.
Cut open the wall at the buried box, install a mudring, and a blank cover plate. The cover plate can be painted to match the surounding surface.
#11
If the box is set to deep to be flush with the surface a mudring is used to extend. Since you don't want use a blank cover plate you need to run new wire or put a receptacle at the box.
Not an acess panel a blank cover plate. Maybe you misunderstood. It's the same size as a receptacle plate or switch plate and looks just like them except no openings for receptacles or switch.
I was under the impression that the only thing I could do was an access panel which is obvious and looks horrible.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
I decided to relocate the existing junction box to a wall on the outside wall so that I can just hang a picture over it and it will seem normal. As far as the bathroom wiring plan, I'm going to run the 12/2 from the breaker directly to the GFCI box, then double back to the wall switch, then out to the lights, thus eliminating any junction box. once again, thanks for the pointers!
#15
Member
If your ceiling has access from crawl space above, then you are good for the J-box just nailed to a joist, open side up. Most electricians tend to use more wire and fewer J boxes.
#16
As far as the bathroom wiring plan, I'm going to run the 12/2 from the breaker directly to the GFCI box, then double back to the wall switch, then out to the lights, thus eliminating any junction box. once again, thanks for the pointers!
#17
Hands down, worst news I've had in weeks.
I suppose that is in case of an electrical problem, there will be no non-accessible connections, or at least, to say, all connections will be accessible.
Not that I blame you lol... Just, that's horrible godawful news. well I already have a junction box right next to where I proposed to put this one and that one was to extend wires as well. It was either that, or tear out my whole brand new walls and ceiling to replace a 30 ft wire with a 40ft wire.
well, I guess if you're prepared to ask a question, you ought be prepared for any answer.
So, let's just say that I left the junction box 'exposed', the wiring diagram you provided(thanks) would suffice?
I suppose that is in case of an electrical problem, there will be no non-accessible connections, or at least, to say, all connections will be accessible.
Not that I blame you lol... Just, that's horrible godawful news. well I already have a junction box right next to where I proposed to put this one and that one was to extend wires as well. It was either that, or tear out my whole brand new walls and ceiling to replace a 30 ft wire with a 40ft wire.
well, I guess if you're prepared to ask a question, you ought be prepared for any answer.
So, let's just say that I left the junction box 'exposed', the wiring diagram you provided(thanks) would suffice?
#18
Member
Thread Starter
If the box is set to deep to be flush with the surface a mudring is used to extend. Since you don't want use a blank cover plate you need to run new wire or put a receptacle at the box.
Not an acess panel a blank cover plate. Maybe you misunderstood. It's the same size as a receptacle plate or switch plate and looks just like them except no openings for receptacles or switch.
Not an acess panel a blank cover plate. Maybe you misunderstood. It's the same size as a receptacle plate or switch plate and looks just like them except no openings for receptacles or switch.
so, can I locate it in the bathroom?
also, what's the rule with light switches in a bathroom in terms of location?
#19
so, can I locate it in the bathroom
also, what's the rule with light switches in a bathroom in terms of location?
Last edited by ray2047; 04-22-11 at 11:25 AM.