50 amp rv service
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
50 amp rv service
I'm trying to install 50 amp service in my workshop to provide power to my RV. I currently have a 50 amp double pole breaker installed in the panel to provide power for a welder I never bought. The receptacle has 2 110 legs (black and red) and a white neutral. Only problem is there is no bond wire. How would I go about providing a proper bond for the service? Also, the cord from the RV says there are three # 6 conductors (black, red, white) and one #8 conductor, I assume for the bond.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Last edited by fishman22; 05-25-11 at 02:39 PM. Reason: correct information
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I misspoke in my original post. I know that normally with a 220v line, there is no neutral. There are 2 110v legs and a bond. I used the black and red as the 110v hot leads and the white as the bond. That's how the welder receptacle was wired. Now I need to take the white bond, remove it from the bond buss bar and relocate it to the neutral bar, providing the required neutral for proper wiring service to the RV. Again, that leaves me without a bond for the RV. The receptacle for the RV is a 14-50R - 2 110v hot legs across from each other, the neutral on the bottom and the bond (half round) at the top.
Again thanks, and I'm sorry for the misinformation in the first post.
Again thanks, and I'm sorry for the misinformation in the first post.
#3
If the wiring method is all metal conduit and boxes, that will suffice as the equipment ground (bond as you called it). All you would need to do in that case is run a #10 copper jumper from the ground terminal on the 14-50 receptacle to the ground screw in the metal junction box.
If you have a partial or complete plastic wiring method (romex cable, etc), you'll need to run a retrofit ground wire from the 14-50 receptacle back to the ground bus in the garage panel. This wire should be a green insulated #10 copper wire. It should be run in such a way to protect from damage, supported by staples. If you have access to the existing cable, I would tie-wrap the new ground right to the existing cable.
If you have a partial or complete plastic wiring method (romex cable, etc), you'll need to run a retrofit ground wire from the 14-50 receptacle back to the ground bus in the garage panel. This wire should be a green insulated #10 copper wire. It should be run in such a way to protect from damage, supported by staples. If you have access to the existing cable, I would tie-wrap the new ground right to the existing cable.
#4
You'll need to run a new 4 wire cable from the box to the old welder receptacle, and provide a 4 prong receptacle so the plug you have will mate up to it.
Ben beat me to it. I wasn't thinking of conduit, just cabling.
Ben beat me to it. I wasn't thinking of conduit, just cabling.
#5
2 110v hot legs across from each other,
#6
If you have a partial or complete plastic wiring method (romex cable, etc), you'll need to run a retrofit ground wire from the 14-50 receptacle back to the ground bus in the garage panel. This wire should be a green insulated #10 copper wire. It should be run in such a way to protect from damage, supported by staples. If you have access to the existing cable, I would tie-wrap the new ground right to the existing cable.
#7
Who walks around their house snipping random wires? If so, they deserve what they get.
A retrofit ground is allowed by NEC art. 250.130(C).
A retrofit ground is allowed by NEC art. 250.130(C).