ceiling fan installation

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  #1  
Old 01-01-01, 08:10 PM
Guest
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Question

The instruction tell me to connect the blue and black wires to the black in the outle box. Connect the white wire to the white in the outlet box and the green to the ground. In my outlet box I have the black wire that was connect to the old light and two white wires that were connected to the old light. I connected black to black and white to white. I also have in the outlet box one black and two white wires connected together. I thought these were the ground wires, but when I connected them to the green in my fan and tried to reset my breaker, I would blow the breaker. I disconnected the green from those wires and noticed the wire connector was burned. I guess I was wrong the two white and black conneted is not the ground. I also have a copper looking wire in the outlet box. Is this copper wire the ground. Why don't they just make it green like the other wire, then I would have it. Your help is much appreciated. Thank you.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-01-01, 09:52 PM
J
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Next time, please don't guess. You were lucky you didn't kill yourself.

Grounding wires are always either green or bare. NO OTHER COLOR IS EVER GROUND.

So yes, the bare copper wire is ground. Please assess the damage that was caused by the heat and repair it before proceeding.

Good luck and let us know how it comes out.
 
  #3  
Old 01-02-01, 03:05 PM
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Smile

Thank you so much John for the direction. I connected the ground to ground, black and blue to black and white to white. Pretty simple, but my fan turned one 1/8 of a turn and stopped. I have not connected the blades or lights yet. I wanted to make sure the fan worked before I added anymore weight or objects. Should my fan work now or does the light need to be connected first. The breaker box is good now. You are wonderful, thanks loads. I look forward to your reply.
 
  #4  
Old 01-03-01, 07:43 AM
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Unhappy

I have been fooling with this fan for a few days and still can not get the fan to work. The breaker is good now. The wires are connected. I have not attached the light or blades yet, but I cannot get the fan to come on. I do not want to go any farther until I get soon advice. Please help. Thank you.
 
  #5  
Old 01-03-01, 09:55 AM
J
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I suggest investment in a voltmeter or a cheap circuit tester (the one with the light that glows). Test for voltage across the two wires you connected the fan to. Then test each of these wires to ground also. Then make these tests on any of the other wires in the box too.

Are all the wires that were originally (before you started messing) connected together still connected together?

Report what you find.

It might also help if you report all the contents of this box. From your first post, it sounds like you have two black wires, four white wires, and one bare wire coming into the box. Is this true, are there any more unmentioned wires, and did these wires enter the box in cables or as separate wires?. If in cables, then how were they grouped? It also sounds like one black was connected only to the old lamp, two whites were connected to each other and the old lamp, and a black and two whites connected to each other but not to the old lamp. Is this correct?
 
  #6  
Old 01-03-01, 03:48 PM
Wgoodrich
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John is doing fine with working out the wiring for you, but I had a thought out in left field that I have had to stump me a couple of times. Thought I would give you words of thought.

Do you have a speed control on your wall controlling this fan? Do you have a spin dial on the side of the motor that is also a speed control.

I have found on several occasions these speed controls to be turned the the slowest settings and with both being in series there wasn't enough power for the fan to turn.

I suggested this story and idea because you said that the motor turned some then stopped. You may have the above as discribed concerning variable speed controls or you may have burn out your motor while you were guessing the wire connections.

Hope this helps

Wg
 
  #7  
Old 01-03-01, 05:47 PM
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Arrow

To answer your questions.

Yes all the wires that were connected before I started messing around are still connected.

Contents of the box:

two black and one white seperate wires connected together(these are the original connected wires mentioned above).

copper ground wire to which I connected the green ground wire from the ceiling mounting plate.

a black wire that was connected to the old light is now connected to the blue and black wires of the fan.

the two white wires that were connected to the old light are connected to the white wire of the fan.

I tested the wires. The black and blue to the black tested postive. The two whites to the white in the fan tested positive. However, when I tested the two whites to the ground individually I got the following. The one white to the ground tested positive, but the other white to the ground tested negative.

As for Wgoodrich suggestion, the fan has a pull change with 1 pull-High, 2pulls-Medium, 3pulls-Low and 4 pulls-Off. The wall only has an on off switch, no spead control on the wall or the fan. When I ran through all the pulls, I can hear the fan motor trying to turn the fan, but the motor does not turn.

Anymore thoughts would be helpful. Maybe I did burn up my fan motor. Much appreciation.
 
  #8  
Old 01-03-01, 06:25 PM
J
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Bottom line: I think you fried your fan.

-------------------------------

First of all, the fact that your fan seems to try to turn means that it is getting some power. We just don't know how much (without a voltmeter).

Second, I'm confused that both wires connected to the fan "tested positive". The fan cannot operate if both sides are hot (although I'm not really sure how you conducted the test, or what you tested it with).

----------------------

I'm not sure what you mean by the phrases "tested positive" and "tested negative". Let me guess. Does "tested positive" mean the the lamp on your tester illuminated when you touched one side of the tester to the wire being tested the the other side to the bare grounding wire? Then does "tested negative" mean that the light did not illuminate when tested to the bare grounding wire?

-----------------------

What now? Buy a real voltmeter. Disconnect the fan from the wires in the box and turn the breaker back on. Read the voltage across the wires that were connected to the fan. If the voltage is 120 volts, then your fan is fried -- buy a new fan. If the voltage is much less than 120 volts, come back and tell us what the value is.

Let us know either way.
 
  #9  
Old 01-04-01, 11:15 AM
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Was just reading your problem, and probably waould also agree either the motor is fried or you stated that you had not installed the blades or light housing yet. The fans are usually shipped with a rubber stopper on one of the fan blade attachments to keep it from moving freely. I would check that and make sure the direction switch is not in the halfway position.
 
  #10  
Old 01-04-01, 05:27 PM
Wgoodrich
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satcomer has a major good point. The fans are usually shipped with rubber shipping blocks that wedge the motor and would make the fan act as you have discribed. Take a look! Try spinning the part where the fan blades are to be mounted. If this does not spin freely then you probably have the shipping blocks.

Good Shot satcomer!

Wg
 
  #11  
Old 01-22-01, 08:39 PM
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Unhappy ceiling fan

Thank you for all your help. It has been a while since I have tackeled my ceiling fan again. I exchanged the fan for a new one. When I started to install the fan, I found that the ceiling wire box is an old plastic one and the screw on one side is stripped. Therefore, I have to replace that outlet box first. In the mean time I decided to check your advise about a fan brake. I do not see one and the fan on the new unit does move when I turn it, however, with closer inspection of the new fan, I found that the fan housing itself was damaged and bent in shipping to the store. So back to the store I go to return the second fan. I will keep you posted when I get a chance to get into the attic to replace the ceiling box. Do you have any hints for this little task before I get started. Thanks a million. Signed Determined.
 
  #12  
Old 01-24-01, 03:46 PM
Wgoodrich
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A ceiling box that supports a paddle fan must be approved for the purpose. LABLED AS A FAN BOX. In a normal metal light box you should find two tabs that the light fixture mounts to that are threaded for 8/32 screws. The weight of the light fixture relies on those two tabs with the 8/32 screw threads in those tabs. Now due to fans crashing to the floor caused by the vibration of the fan running eating the threads out of the box that supported the fan, we must use a box designed specifically for fans. If a metal box you will find the same tabs on a fan box that you found on a light box. However the tabs are not threaded. The hole in that tab is enlarged and threads are molded into the back of the fan box. This is designed so that the 8/32 screws will pass through the tabs into the back of the box where the threads are found. The 8/32 screws passing through those tabs are designed to obsorb the vibration and the threads tend to stay in tact without any vibration affect. If you use a plastic box the same principle is used on the metal nuts are molded into the back of the box and the plastic where the screws pass through obsorbs the vibration.

Plastic or metal is fine as long as they are approved and labled as fan boxes.

Hope this helps

Wg
 
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