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Garage Door Openers do not have power at the unit. Please help

Garage Door Openers do not have power at the unit. Please help

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  #1  
Old 06-14-11, 11:52 AM
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Garage Door Openers do not have power at the unit. Please help

I bought a house and both garage door openers do not have power. They are Overhead Door Legacy 696 CD/B. I did a lot of troubleshooting to see if I could determine the problem. The receptacles in the garage ceiling have power, but there is not any power getting to the units, sensors, wall switches, etc..
This house was a foreclosure and sat empty for 3 years. The bank had an electrical company come out and do work prior to putting the house on the market (I know this because I live across the street). Everything in the house works perfect, with the exception of both garage door openers.
I am thinking possibly a power surge or lightning strike may have damaged a capacitor or board.
How could I troubleshoot further to determine the issue and get the parts to replace my self?

Thanks in advance
 
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  #2  
Old 06-14-11, 12:50 PM
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Yes the openers could be damaged. Does a regular lamp work when plugged into the GDO recetapcles? If so, I would rule out an electrical issue and focus on the openers being defective.
 
  #3  
Old 06-14-11, 03:21 PM
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Yes, I tested a lamp and it works. How could I test the capacitor or board to see if they are defective?
 
  #4  
Old 06-14-11, 04:04 PM
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You probably can't do any testing on the component level. Does this unit have a photoelectric safety that "looks across" the door opening to stop or reverse the door if anything passes through the beam? If it does, is it properly aligned? Have you tried disconnecting the wiring from the power unit to the pushbutton station and momentarily connecting a short wire between the two terminals on the power unit to see if it operates? If this last test is positive then that points to a problem with the pushbutton or the interconnecting wiring.
 
  #5  
Old 06-14-11, 04:06 PM
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I would also check for a fuse inside the unit on the power supply or circuit board. If you're lucky a $0.50 fuse might have blown to protect the board. Perhaps also check for a thermal overload breaker on the motor.
 
  #6  
Old 06-14-11, 04:16 PM
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Good points.

Of course the FIRST thing to do is to pull the disconnect rope and try to lift the door manually. If the door has a mechanical lock (it shouldn't or it should have been disabled when the opener was installed) the machine can't possibly open the door. The same is true if the counterbalance springs are broken or out of adjustment. If you can't open the door manually then the power unit won't be able to either.
 
  #7  
Old 06-15-11, 06:37 AM
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Look at the circuit boards. Especially look for things that look like discs with two leads to the PCB. These are MOVs that are easily burned out during a surge. Depending on the severity of the surge, they may be burned through, giving their own lives to save the more sensitive components.

If there's no visible damage, get a multimeter and follow the main power cord to ensure each component has power. After that - I'm out of ideas
 
  #8  
Old 06-15-11, 07:13 AM
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The logic boards in these openers use semiconductor components. Storms with electrical activity (lightning) frequently zap these. Unless you are experienced in component level troubleshooting, your probably least expensive repair will be to purchase a replacement logic board. You can sometimes find this type of item on the auction sites.

One of the local door companies installs a cheap surge suppressor - like you use for a computer - and he claims that really helps. Could be, because when we get electrical storms here in the mountains, they are doozies.
 
  #9  
Old 06-15-11, 06:59 PM
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hi strykerman Ė

Iím no electrical guy like the guys advising you here, but I have 2 Craftsman 3/4 hp chain drive openers I installed myself. Looking at your manual your opener looks very similar to mine(guess they are all about the same). One time I had the wires from either the wall unit and/or the wires from the safety sensors, incorrectly connected at the power head. (Canít remember the details) But if I remember correctly it gave the appearance that the entire system was totally dead. No lights on the safety sensors, no lights on the wall unit, and wall unit dead as a doornail. Iím not 100% sure but I believe I didnít have any lights anywhere.

I know you said you did troubleshooting already so maybe you already checked that.( Another time I had just a loose connection at the power head and that caused a problem too. I hate that small gauge wire). But I guess it would seem unlikely that both your openers are wired improperly at the power head or have loose connections at the power head.

But still - it does seem strange that both seem to have the same problem: lack of power?

Is there any way that they might have been intentionally disabled? Like disconnecting a wiring harness on the circuit board?

Was wondering if the bank wanted to make sure the openers would be truly disabled until someone moved in? They didnít have faith that the security measure of erasing the current remote codes at the power head really works, or would be done properly? (OK Ė a real stretch.) So open them up and really disable them so that someone canít plug them back in and forget to unplug them leaving them exposed to a remote. No one with a remote can get into that garage! (OK Ė a gigantic stretch! Time to quit! LOL)

As was pointed out in a previous post seems like your best bet would be to visually inspect that circuit board .

Originally Posted by tldoug View Post
Ö a replacement logic board. You can sometimes find this type of item on the auction sites. .
Seems like an excellent idea and would really be worth a try if it comes to that! I had an RF reception problem I traced to the circuit board. The replacement board (from Sears Parts) cost me almost half the price of a new opener. Sorry I didnít see the above advice.

Good luck!
 
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