Tanning Bed voltage convertion

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  #1  
Old 06-22-11, 10:36 PM
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Tanning Bed voltage convertion

Hello,
A friend of mine has a tanning bed that he would like to convert from a 220 input to two seperate 110s. I am an have some general g-2 of electronics by way of my current job. I am an avionics man and work on helocopters.

Now what we have done to this point:
1) seperated 220 input from tanning bed into two seperate 110 in to two male plugs.
a) once pluged into wall outlets gfi triped and would not power tanning bed after reset (i.e gfi would continully trip)

2) 1st male plug wiring:
a) white to volt contact
b) black to ground contact
c) green to green side contact (bottom of 3 prong male connector)

3) 2nd male plug wiring:
a) red to volt contact
b) black to gound contact
c) green to green side contact (bottom of 3 prong male connector)

What i did was share the black and green wires between the to male connectors.
Is it possible that i have wired the new connectors wrong?
My thinking is that the red/white are in the wrong postion on the male connects. Is the red/white wires the common or the "hot" wires.

Any help would be very much helpful?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-23-11, 12:28 AM
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First off residential voltages are 120v and 240v. The house is actually supplied with 240v plus a center tap from the power company transformer. Your 120v comes from that center tap (neutral) and one of the 240v legs of that transformer. What you are trying to do is not electrically possible. Further the green is ground and is never used as a conductor and it is unsafe to use it to carry current except to clear a fault.

The ballasts on the tanning bed may have a 120v tap or even be self ranging. There is a label on the ballast which gives the information and wiring diagram.

Note even assuming you can even get to a 120v feed the doubling of amperage may exceed a household 20a 120v circuit.

The only real solution here is to install a 240v receptacle for the tanning bed.

Was this bought over the internet? If it really says 220v does it also say 50Hz? If so it may not be compatible with US power system.

Frankly I think you need to get an electrician. What you were doing is so wrong, shows such a lack of basic knowledge it is scary.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 06-23-11 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 06-23-11, 07:05 AM
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Avionics and auto electronics are complete opposites of household current. Your color coding is incorrect, first off. And separating a 240 volt circuit into two separate 120 volt circuits just plain won't work.
I think, like Ray, this was an European version which won't work here.
 
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Old 06-23-11, 08:17 AM
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Thank you for the help I will try consulting the manufacture and attempt a w/union from them seeing as the bed was from them and they were the ones that told us that this was in fact possible. Thank you again.
 
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Old 06-23-11, 09:45 AM
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Let us know what they say. If they suggested the instructions in your first post I would be be very suspicious of their instructions.
 
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