Need advise with installation of 100 amp breaker panel
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Need advise with installation of 100 amp breaker panel
Hi. I having an electrician wire a 100 amp service to my shop.
He is tapping at the house main breaker panel and running 4/0-4/0-2/0 wire from the house panel to the new panel in the shop. My question is that My panel seem really load already. I have 200 amp service to the house panel.
On the house breaker panel. i have the following circuts already.
3 30amp 220
2 40amp 220
1 50amp 220
15 20amp 120
Can my house breaker afford to add an additional 100amp service feeder for the shop. The 100 amp at the shop will have the following loads.
2 30amp 220
1 40amp 220
4 20amp 120
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
He is tapping at the house main breaker panel and running 4/0-4/0-2/0 wire from the house panel to the new panel in the shop. My question is that My panel seem really load already. I have 200 amp service to the house panel.
On the house breaker panel. i have the following circuts already.
3 30amp 220
2 40amp 220
1 50amp 220
15 20amp 120
Can my house breaker afford to add an additional 100amp service feeder for the shop. The 100 amp at the shop will have the following loads.
2 30amp 220
1 40amp 220
4 20amp 120
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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You are detailing the sizes of the various circuit breakers, not the actual load. For what it's worth, my 200 ampere service has about 900 amperes worth of circuit breakers installed but the LOAD is probably never more than 50 amperes at the maximum.
So, instead of telling us what the circuit breaker ratings are please tell us what those various circuit breakers are connected to. Tell us also what items are likely to be operating at the same time.
This bothers me. How far from the service (main) panel is the shop panel? Is it in a separate building or is the shop attached to the same building as the service panel? If it is a separate, detached building then the feeder needs to have FOUR conductors total, not three.
So, instead of telling us what the circuit breaker ratings are please tell us what those various circuit breakers are connected to. Tell us also what items are likely to be operating at the same time.
He is tapping at the house main breaker panel and running 4/0-4/0-2/0 wire from the house panel to the new panel in the shop.
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1 30amps run the water pump
1 30 amp runs water heater
1 30amp runs dryer
1 40amp runs heating
1 50 amp run stove
the 20 amps run lights and electrical plugs throught out the house.
The panel will be in a seperate building 100 feet from panel to panel. Which wire should he use.
I'll talk to him this morning as I may be confuse on the wire size. it may be 2/0-2/0-4/0
1 30 amp runs water heater
1 30amp runs dryer
1 40amp runs heating
1 50 amp run stove
the 20 amps run lights and electrical plugs throught out the house.
The panel will be in a seperate building 100 feet from panel to panel. Which wire should he use.
I'll talk to him this morning as I may be confuse on the wire size. it may be 2/0-2/0-4/0
#4
I'll talk to him this morning as I may be confuse on the wire size. it may be 2/0-2/0-4/
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I Just talked to the electrician and it is a 4 connector feed wire he's using. Two hot, one nuatral, one ground. That makes sense? I'm not and electrician and only know basic stuff about it. One, it can kill you! two, it can burn your house down. Yes there is a permit and yes he has a license.
I'm just want to make sure everything is ok, i seen guys with license screw up. So that doesn't mean it's going to be done right. I personaly pulled the permit yesterday.
I'm just want to make sure everything is ok, i seen guys with license screw up. So that doesn't mean it's going to be done right. I personaly pulled the permit yesterday.
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It's being run in conduit 30" deep,thou he said it's not required by code in this County.
Last edited by dale002; 09-24-11 at 07:22 AM.
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Why are you pulling the permit? Generally the permit is pulled by the person actually doing the work.
The 100 ampere feeder to the shop is likely well within the capacity of the 200 ampere service panel. Of the specific loads listed (not counting the 120 volt loads) you would have about 120 amperes IF everything were operating at once.
The size of conductors you cite either are way larger than necessary or simply don't make sense. It is possible that the electrician is using something that he has left over from a different job.
The 100 ampere feeder to the shop is likely well within the capacity of the 200 ampere service panel. Of the specific loads listed (not counting the 120 volt loads) you would have about 120 amperes IF everything were operating at once.
The size of conductors you cite either are way larger than necessary or simply don't make sense. It is possible that the electrician is using something that he has left over from a different job.
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Why are you pulling the permit? Generally the permit is pulled by the person actually doing the work.
The 100 ampere feeder to the shop is likely well within the capacity of the 200 ampere service panel. Of the specific loads listed (not counting the 120 volt loads) you would have about 120 amperes IF everything were operating at once.
The size of conductors you cite either are way larger than necessary or simply don't make sense. It is possible that the electrician is using something that he has left over from a different job.
The 100 ampere feeder to the shop is likely well within the capacity of the 200 ampere service panel. Of the specific loads listed (not counting the 120 volt loads) you would have about 120 amperes IF everything were operating at once.
The size of conductors you cite either are way larger than necessary or simply don't make sense. It is possible that the electrician is using something that he has left over from a different job.
Last edited by dale002; 09-24-11 at 12:10 PM.
#10
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If I were to install a 100A subpanel in a detached garage, this is what I would do. (You can use this to keep half an eye on his work)
100A breaker in the main panel. PVC conduit from the main panel, underground, at least 24" deep, long sweep underground on both ends into an LB (right angle connector with an access panel) going into each structure.
4 conductors, two hots and one neutral of 3ga copper or 1ga aluminum. Also a ground (I forget off the top of my head what size).
The panel in the garage must have a main disconnect. (there are a few exceptions, but with a 100A service, this is what you want). The ground bus in the garage panel should be bonded (screwed) directly to the pan. The neutral bar should be electrically isolated from the ground. Grounds and neutrals from the circuits need to be kept separate.
You'll also need an 8' long 1/2" copper ground rod driven at the garage, ground wire attached with an acorn clamp. The rod should be driven an inch or two underground so the whole rod is buried.
I don't know what state you're in, but in NJ, it's prohibited for a homeowner to obtain a permit if they are not the ones doing the work. Additionally, some amount (usually 10%) of the final payment is legally supposed to be withheld by the homeowner until the work passes final inspection. States vary though.
Hope this helps
100A breaker in the main panel. PVC conduit from the main panel, underground, at least 24" deep, long sweep underground on both ends into an LB (right angle connector with an access panel) going into each structure.
4 conductors, two hots and one neutral of 3ga copper or 1ga aluminum. Also a ground (I forget off the top of my head what size).
The panel in the garage must have a main disconnect. (there are a few exceptions, but with a 100A service, this is what you want). The ground bus in the garage panel should be bonded (screwed) directly to the pan. The neutral bar should be electrically isolated from the ground. Grounds and neutrals from the circuits need to be kept separate.
You'll also need an 8' long 1/2" copper ground rod driven at the garage, ground wire attached with an acorn clamp. The rod should be driven an inch or two underground so the whole rod is buried.
I don't know what state you're in, but in NJ, it's prohibited for a homeowner to obtain a permit if they are not the ones doing the work. Additionally, some amount (usually 10%) of the final payment is legally supposed to be withheld by the homeowner until the work passes final inspection. States vary though.
Hope this helps
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If I were to install a 100A subpanel in a detached garage, this is what I would do. (You can use this to keep half an eye on his work)
100A breaker in the main panel. PVC conduit from the main panel, underground, at least 24" deep, long sweep underground on both ends into an LB (right angle connector with an access panel) going into each structure.
4 conductors, two hots and one neutral of 3ga copper or 1ga aluminum. Also a ground (I forget off the top of my head what size).
The panel in the garage must have a main disconnect. (there are a few exceptions, but with a 100A service, this is what you want). The ground bus in the garage panel should be bonded (screwed) directly to the pan. The neutral bar should be electrically isolated from the ground. Grounds and neutrals from the circuits need to be kept separate.
You'll also need an 8' long 1/2" copper ground rod driven at the garage, ground wire attached with an acorn clamp. The rod should be driven an inch or two underground so the whole rod is buried.
I don't know what state you're in, but in NJ, it's prohibited for a homeowner to obtain a permit if they are not the ones doing the work. Additionally, some amount (usually 10%) of the final payment is legally supposed to be withheld by the homeowner until the work passes final inspection. States vary though.
Hope this helps
100A breaker in the main panel. PVC conduit from the main panel, underground, at least 24" deep, long sweep underground on both ends into an LB (right angle connector with an access panel) going into each structure.
4 conductors, two hots and one neutral of 3ga copper or 1ga aluminum. Also a ground (I forget off the top of my head what size).
The panel in the garage must have a main disconnect. (there are a few exceptions, but with a 100A service, this is what you want). The ground bus in the garage panel should be bonded (screwed) directly to the pan. The neutral bar should be electrically isolated from the ground. Grounds and neutrals from the circuits need to be kept separate.
You'll also need an 8' long 1/2" copper ground rod driven at the garage, ground wire attached with an acorn clamp. The rod should be driven an inch or two underground so the whole rod is buried.
I don't know what state you're in, but in NJ, it's prohibited for a homeowner to obtain a permit if they are not the ones doing the work. Additionally, some amount (usually 10%) of the final payment is legally supposed to be withheld by the homeowner until the work passes final inspection. States vary though.
Hope this helps
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The feed wires are 4 conductors, two hot 2 gauge, a 4 gauge neutral and a 6 gauge ground. Ground and neutral are seperate and attached to the panel. The subpanel is a siemen 100amp 20 space run of the mill panel,similar to the main panel. Does have the two grey elbows with access cover.
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Inspector suppose to be here this afternoon,then he can cover and continue with installing wall sockets,lighting,and connection for air compresor. So far evrything is pretty much as per you guys advise. Our code are a little more relaxed than in other places.
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If I were to install a 100A subpanel in a detached garage, this is what I would do. (You can use this to keep half an eye on his work)
100A breaker in the main panel. PVC conduit from the main panel, underground, at least 24" deep, long sweep underground on both ends into an LB (right angle connector with an access panel) going into each structure.
4 conductors, two hots and one neutral of 3ga copper or 1ga aluminum. Also a ground (I forget off the top of my head what size).
The panel in the garage must have a main disconnect. (there are a few exceptions, but with a 100A service, this is what you want). The ground bus in the garage panel should be bonded (screwed) directly to the pan. The neutral bar should be electrically isolated from the ground. Grounds and neutrals from the circuits need to be kept separate.
You'll also need an 8' long 1/2" copper ground rod driven at the garage, ground wire attached with an acorn clamp. The rod should be driven an inch or two underground so the whole rod is buried.
I don't know what state you're in, but in NJ, it's prohibited for a homeowner to obtain a permit if they are not the ones doing the work. Additionally, some amount (usually 10%) of the final payment is legally supposed to be withheld by the homeowner until the work passes final inspection. States vary though.
Hope this helps
100A breaker in the main panel. PVC conduit from the main panel, underground, at least 24" deep, long sweep underground on both ends into an LB (right angle connector with an access panel) going into each structure.
4 conductors, two hots and one neutral of 3ga copper or 1ga aluminum. Also a ground (I forget off the top of my head what size).
The panel in the garage must have a main disconnect. (there are a few exceptions, but with a 100A service, this is what you want). The ground bus in the garage panel should be bonded (screwed) directly to the pan. The neutral bar should be electrically isolated from the ground. Grounds and neutrals from the circuits need to be kept separate.
You'll also need an 8' long 1/2" copper ground rod driven at the garage, ground wire attached with an acorn clamp. The rod should be driven an inch or two underground so the whole rod is buried.
I don't know what state you're in, but in NJ, it's prohibited for a homeowner to obtain a permit if they are not the ones doing the work. Additionally, some amount (usually 10%) of the final payment is legally supposed to be withheld by the homeowner until the work passes final inspection. States vary though.
Hope this helps
Thanks!