Bathroom Electrical Circuit Drawing
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Bathroom Electrical Circuit Drawing
Hi everyone,
I am re-wiring a half bath and the full bathroom which is directly on top. The half bath will have a GFCI socket, a light & fan. The full bath above will have 2 GFCI sockets, a light & fan, and a vanity light. I ran 12/3 from the panel to the half bath with the idea of using the 1 hot (red) for the half bath and the other hot (black) for the full bath upstairs. Based on advice on previous threads if multiple blow dryers etc are plugged in.
I based the wiring of the GFCI off the following diagram from the book.
Here is a a drawing of the circuit I created.
How does it look guys?
PS Is it correct to assume that all light housing boxes are metal? I ask because in the black and decker book I see that the green wire (the ground) is always screwed into a box. That makes sense for the light housing boxes but if you are using plastic boxes for the switches you wouldn't screw it in.
Thoughts comments? As you can see from the above drawing, I will be using the black hot for upstairs bath and the red hot for the downstairs. The neutral will be shared path back to the panel.
I am re-wiring a half bath and the full bathroom which is directly on top. The half bath will have a GFCI socket, a light & fan. The full bath above will have 2 GFCI sockets, a light & fan, and a vanity light. I ran 12/3 from the panel to the half bath with the idea of using the 1 hot (red) for the half bath and the other hot (black) for the full bath upstairs. Based on advice on previous threads if multiple blow dryers etc are plugged in.
I based the wiring of the GFCI off the following diagram from the book.
Here is a a drawing of the circuit I created.
How does it look guys?
PS Is it correct to assume that all light housing boxes are metal? I ask because in the black and decker book I see that the green wire (the ground) is always screwed into a box. That makes sense for the light housing boxes but if you are using plastic boxes for the switches you wouldn't screw it in.
Thoughts comments? As you can see from the above drawing, I will be using the black hot for upstairs bath and the red hot for the downstairs. The neutral will be shared path back to the panel.
#2
Looks ok
At your first receptacle, instead of putting both neutral wires on the device....make a splice with those two neutrals and leave a tail out to the device.
You're showing the lower bathroom wiring in two wire w/ground cable with a red and white wire......good for demo purposes but the actual colors will be white and black.
At your first receptacle, instead of putting both neutral wires on the device....make a splice with those two neutrals and leave a tail out to the device.
You're showing the lower bathroom wiring in two wire w/ground cable with a red and white wire......good for demo purposes but the actual colors will be white and black.
#3
There's no need, and no benefit, in providing GFCI protection to either lighting or fans. Based on your text (not on your drawing) it appears that the GFCI protection for the receptacle in each bathroom will be the receptacle itself.
I would terminate the wires in the 2-conductor cable that continues to lighting and fans next to the panel feed wires, on the LINE terminals. In the second floor bath, the wires in the cable going to the second (standard) receptacle should be terminated to the LOAD terminals on the GFCI in that bath. Again, the wires feeding other loads should be connected to the LINE terminals.
I would terminate the wires in the 2-conductor cable that continues to lighting and fans next to the panel feed wires, on the LINE terminals. In the second floor bath, the wires in the cable going to the second (standard) receptacle should be terminated to the LOAD terminals on the GFCI in that bath. Again, the wires feeding other loads should be connected to the LINE terminals.
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Updated Diagram
I have slightly modified the drawing after some feedback.
PJmax, yes I used the red instead of black for illustration purpose. The 12/2 I have is black and white.
Nashkat1, that makes sense that there is no benefit in providing gfci protection to the lights and fan. I guess that makes sense only of you are outside as the black top drawing illustrates. I updated the drawing and removed GFCI protection to the lights and switch.
thoughts?
PS here is a link to the bigger image. Hard to see since forum shrinks original.
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9...cuitaifile.jpg
PJmax, yes I used the red instead of black for illustration purpose. The 12/2 I have is black and white.
Nashkat1, that makes sense that there is no benefit in providing gfci protection to the lights and fan. I guess that makes sense only of you are outside as the black top drawing illustrates. I updated the drawing and removed GFCI protection to the lights and switch.
thoughts?
PS here is a link to the bigger image. Hard to see since forum shrinks original.
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9...cuitaifile.jpg
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Something I read (possibly Wiring Simplified) suggested running 12(14)/3 from the last switch to the last feature so that you still have a neutral wire in case you upgrade that final fixture/switch to something that requires a neutral in the future.
#7
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Something I read (possibly Wiring Simplified) suggested running 12(14)/3 from the last switch to the last fixture
I think the most recent drawing looks good. One clarification though, the 12/3 will connect to a 20A double-pole breaker or two 20A single-pole breakers with a handle tie. If it's actually a fuse box, two 20A fuses.
And you probably figured out the answer to your grounding question. Metal boxes need a separate ground wire screwed (using a green screw) to them. Plastic boxes don't need any grounding.
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Zorfdt,
Yes the 12/3 will connect to a 20A double-pole breaker. Assuming here that 1 hot (black) goes to one switch and the other hot (red) goes to other switch correct?
As far as metal boxes, am I correct in assuming all light fixtures go in some fort of metal box? Thinking that would be the case because of heat.
There will be a neutral inside the box (its pigtailed in diagram).
Guys, am I correct in also assuming that in the book drawing (the one with black background), if the GFCI gets tripped, the light switch and light bulb get there power cut off?
Yes the 12/3 will connect to a 20A double-pole breaker. Assuming here that 1 hot (black) goes to one switch and the other hot (red) goes to other switch correct?
As far as metal boxes, am I correct in assuming all light fixtures go in some fort of metal box? Thinking that would be the case because of heat.
There will be a neutral inside the box (its pigtailed in diagram).
Guys, am I correct in also assuming that in the book drawing (the one with black background), if the GFCI gets tripped, the light switch and light bulb get there power cut off?
#9
the 12/3 will connect to a 20A double-pole breaker.
1 hot (black) goes to one switch and the other hot (red) goes to other switch correct?
As far as metal boxes, am I correct in assuming all light fixtures go in some fort of metal box? Thinking that would be the case because of heat.
am I correct in also assuming that in the book drawing (the one with black background), if the GFCI gets tripped, the light switch and light bulb get there power cut off?
there is no benefit in providing gfci protection to the lights and fan. I guess that makes sense only of you are outside as the black top drawing illustrates.
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Guys after reading up on a multi-wire branch circuit (mwbc) here is a drawing I made of what the connection will look like at the panel.
Could anyone clarify the part about the handles being joined? With the above drawing, each hot is on its own bus. I have some fuses that have 2 handles tied to each other but they are on the same side of the bus.
Could anyone clarify the part about the handles being joined? With the above drawing, each hot is on its own bus. I have some fuses that have 2 handles tied to each other but they are on the same side of the bus.
#11
Could anyone clarify the part about the handles being joined? With the above drawing, each hot is on its own bus. I have some fuses that have 2 handles tied to each other but they are on the same side of the bus.
The two breakers must be installed in two adjacent slots on the same side of the panel. Then each will be on a different leg and bus.
The two hot buses in your panel serve alternating rows of breakers, not the opposite sides. Pull the cover and look.
Last edited by Nashkat1; 06-03-13 at 04:00 PM.
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Thanks for pointing that out Nashkat1. I just updated the drawing.
Ok so based on everything that has been discussed. I need to get a "20 Amp Two-Pole Circuit Breaker" like this:
The Multiwire Branch Circuit drawing connection at the fuse panel should look like this:
Final circuit design should look like this:
Thoughts? Do we have a winner?
Ok so based on everything that has been discussed. I need to get a "20 Amp Two-Pole Circuit Breaker" like this:
The Multiwire Branch Circuit drawing connection at the fuse panel should look like this:
Final circuit design should look like this:
Thoughts? Do we have a winner?
#13
based on everything that has been discussed. I need to get a "20 Amp Two-Pole Circuit Breaker"
Originally Posted by Nashkat1
The better practice for protecting the two hot legs of a MWBC, at least IMO, is to use two single-pole breakers with their handles joined with a handle tie; this allows each circuit to trip without having to trip the other while still insuring that both will be turned off if work needs to be done.
The Multiwire Branch Circuit connection drawing at the [main distribution] panel should look like this:
Do we have a winner?
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Handle Tie
Nashkat1,
So you would recommend two single-pole breakers 20 AMP breakers and a handle tie. Is this the handle tie you are referring to?
If one side of the circuit gets tripped wouldn't tying the 2 together trip the other breaker too? That is of course if the above image is correct.
So you would recommend two single-pole breakers 20 AMP breakers and a handle tie. Is this the handle tie you are referring to?
If one side of the circuit gets tripped wouldn't tying the 2 together trip the other breaker too? That is of course if the above image is correct.
#15
So you would recommend two single-pole breakers 20 AMP breakers and a handle tie.
Is this the handle tie you are referring to?
If one side of the circuit gets tripped wouldn't tying the 2 together trip the other breaker too?