Am I required to have a plug type outlet for a Range?

I’m rewiring for a new range. Instead of buying a cord (that doesn’t come with it) and a new outlet, why can’t I run the wire thru the box, use some kind of stain relief faceplate and hard wire into the range?

 

Solid wire is not designed to be moved. Bend it back and forth so many times, then it will break like a coat hanger.

Appliance cords are designed to be moved as they use stranded wire. So ok to move the appliance for cleaning under it. Also with a plug you can unplug the range and move it out of the way to install a new floor or whatever.

Also think about the future. If at some point you are no longer around and someone else in your family needs to get a new range, they might have to hire an electrician to install an outlet. Or if you sell the house, a home inspector would surely write that up as something which needed fixing. And at that point in the sale, you might be required to have a licensed electrician do the work. A lender or FHA might require that.

For example I have seen wording like this for loans...
"All repairs/work must be completed within (6) months of the closing date. Repairs must be completed by a contractor unless the borrower can demonstrate the required expertise/experience (ie: plumbing repairs would require a licensed plumber, electric work would require a licensed electrician)."
OR mortgages : OR mortgage rates and home loans

 

Why don't you want to use a cord set and receptacle?

The reason they don't come with a cord set is because there are two different types of receptacles the purchaser might have and the manufacturer can't know which.

 

I don't agree. Back when there was only one standard for cord/receptacle the manufacturers STILL didn't include the cord. They never did (and still don't) on electric clothes dryers either. I think it is a practice that once started is all but impossible to break.

I have found that the cordset IS a negotiable item when purchasing new equipment so while a new receptacle may be needed you can get the cord supplied by the appliance retailer.

One more thing...I'm pretty sure that except for a "fixed in place" (i.e. built-in) appliance the National Electrical Code requires a means to disconnect the appliance from the electrical supply. The cord and receptacle arrangement is the least expensive and easiest.

 

A disconnect would also be required for a fixed in place appliance that was hard wired. The cord and plug can serve as the disconnect for the stove.

 

Thanks for the replies, I didn’t think about the disconnect requirement. I’ll use a standard outlet.

 

Just remember you will need a total of four wires, ground wire*, two hots and a neutral. Three wire is no longer code compliant. #8 for 40 amp and #6 for 50 amp. Use a NEMA 14-50 receptacle for both 40a and 50a.

*If metal conduit is used uninterrupted to the breaker box and a metal junction box for the receptacle code doesn't require a ground wire but it is a good idea.