Hello,

I'm replacing my kitchen range and wanted to make sure everything was OK with the electrical wiring.

The new stove is arriving next week, giving me a chance to make any necessary changes.

So... The current setup is as follows. a cord (6 awg 4 wire aluminum SER type) is coming out of conduit in the wall and is wired directly to the old range. Cord from wall has 3 black insulated and 1 uninsulated wire. From the colors on wires of the block on the range (red, white, black) I think I can determine which are hot (red, black), neutral (white) & ground (uninsulated, wired to same terminal as neutral).

Currently, there is a 40-amp 2-pole breaker in the box.

My new range, it appears either requires it to be hard wired, & I assume these are copper wires, or also has an alternate installation for Canada. It appears that the range already has a jacketed set of 4 wires coming out. Since I bought this open box, I am getting US model of the range, I'm not getting a corded version.

see installation instructions at the link below here...

http://www.kitchenaid.com/assets/pdf...%209759536.pdf

My question is as follows.

Am i better off installing a junction box & NMEA 14-50 receptacle (do they make these rated for AL?, will I need some kind of antioxidant?)

or..

Should I splice the cables in a junction box with split bolt connectors or insulated connectors that can handle copper & AL joins?

I'm thinking that the first option sounds better in that I could unplug the range if necessary. Since it's a dual fuel, not sure if this is a safe option?

Also, should I change out the 40-amp breaker for a 30-amp? The instructions seem to call for that, but is that a minimum, or is that necessary to protect the range?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

I would install the 14-50R receptacle and install a cord on the range that essentially becomes a disconnect. To determine the proper fuse or circuit breaker size, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

The circuit breaker required is probably a 40 amp.

Yes, range receptacles generally will accept either copper or aluminum conductors. Aluminum conductors should have an anti-oxidant applied to the connections. A common one is No-Alox.

Ideal NOALOX 4 Oz. Anti-Oxidant Compound (498101) from The Home Depot

 

I jumped the gun and just got back from home depot with a 4x4x2 1/4 box, cable clamp, 3/4" deep cover, 50A CU/AL rated 250 V receptacle/facepate and 50A rated 4 prong plug end, along with a small tube of NOALOX.

4x4 is in and I'm getting to the wiring now. Is there any other prep aside from brushin on the antioxidant/lubricant? (should I hit the AL on the ground wire with a 3M pad, since it's been exposed for many years or will the noalox take care of that? I planned on cutting off 2" or so of the ends to get to some "fresh" wire that's not been exposed to air or crushed in the terminals.)

One other question? I have about 4-5 feet of the 6-3G wire extra. Can I just make a big loop in the wall so I have the extra length if I ever need it? Or is that a bad idea or against code?

Also, Do I need conduit indoors? (this is an interior wall)

Thanks again!

 

If you have cable now there should not be a need for conduit, unless subject to damage. Cable in a wall is not considered subject to damage, but should be 1 1/4" from the face of the stud where the drywall would be secured.

The big loop would need to be secured so I see no real advantage.

 

Thanks again! You guys advice made this an easy job!

 

Have a good Christmas dinner from your new stove.

 

A 3M pad would work fine, but I prefer to cut back the wire and get "fresh" wire as you mentioned. NoAlox will not remove existing corrosion from wire that has been exposed to the air for a long time as far as I know.