Replacing main panel
#1
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Replacing main panel
I understand it's not the easiest task, but assuming the wiring is already present or can be accommodated, why replacing a main panel is considered very expensive? At this point I am not sure, a quick on-line search shows most 200A panels are less than 200$, each breaker is in the 20-30$ range for the small ones up to 70-90$ for 50A double pole ones. Isn't this something a person that understands electricity could do over a weekend? I must be overlooking something, but compared to removing and cutting drywall drilling joists and studs to run new wiring, replacing a panel does not seem too complicated to me. I would have dozens of questions but also a couple of books that I got describe replacing the main panel in a way that does not seem too difficult to me.
Thanks for the comments.
Thanks for the comments.
#2
Several factors you haven't landed on yet. First the POCO has to disconnect service at the pole or pad mount. It can't be reconnected until the building inspector signs off on your permit. Permit must be pulled and in some locations owners can't pull them. They must be pulled by a licensed electrician. Actual physical work isn't rocket science. It's all the niceties that go along with it that make it gel. It could take the POCO a week to return service, so you have to be prepared. First stop is building authority. Acquire permit. Stock up on necessary materials. Call POCO. Do your work. Call inspector. Wait. Call POCO. Wait. Good luck with it!
#3
The biggest cost is in the labor to label the circuits, remove all the cables from the panel and re-install all the cables.
You may need to lengthen wires that are too short and check the integrity of the insulation. Verifying the correct breaker size is advisable too.
You may need to lengthen wires that are too short and check the integrity of the insulation. Verifying the correct breaker size is advisable too.
Last edited by pcboss; 01-27-12 at 03:06 PM.
#4
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Yep, also if there is conduit currently run, especially large stuff, that will complicate the install. Worse case, there are new holes to punch in the new panel to line up with existing pipe. Also, breakers like AFCI are closer to $40 for single pole.
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OK I see it's not going to be too easy and it involves quite some labor. In any case, chandler, in my house (I do not know if it's common) there is a 100A breaker outside close to the PG&E meter, that I can open and I do not need to call the utility company or similar. Is this not usually the case? Should I remove that if I re-do the main panel?
#6
there is a 100A breaker outside close to the PG&E meter, that I can open and I do not need to call the utility company or similar. Is this not usually the case?
Should I remove that if I re-do the main panel?
#8
Remember to keep the neutrals and grounds isolated in the panel you are replacing. Do not install a bond screw or strap.
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Just wanted to expand on what ray2047 and pcboss said so you'd know why you have to follow their advise, and not gloss over it.
Since what you will be working on is a subpanel, pcboss is (of course) dead on that you have to keep the neutrals and grounds isolated in your subpanel. In a main panel, those are bonded together. You absolutely cannot do this in your situation, in your subpanel. You can either use something marketed as a subpanel, or you can use a traditional panel as long as you're able to have those isolated by not installing the bonding screw or strap.
The neutral and ground must only be connected at the main panel, which is the 100A breaker outside close to the PG&E meter. If you want to see why this is important, start by reading this article.
This is why ray2047 is (of course) correct in saying that the connection between your outside main panel and your subpanel has to be four wire feeder. This means two hots, a neutral, and a ground. Older wiring may only be three wires, two hots and a neutral. If this is the case, you can't use this feeder wire, you need to run new feeder wire for it to be safe!
Since what you will be working on is a subpanel, pcboss is (of course) dead on that you have to keep the neutrals and grounds isolated in your subpanel. In a main panel, those are bonded together. You absolutely cannot do this in your situation, in your subpanel. You can either use something marketed as a subpanel, or you can use a traditional panel as long as you're able to have those isolated by not installing the bonding screw or strap.
The neutral and ground must only be connected at the main panel, which is the 100A breaker outside close to the PG&E meter. If you want to see why this is important, start by reading this article.
This is why ray2047 is (of course) correct in saying that the connection between your outside main panel and your subpanel has to be four wire feeder. This means two hots, a neutral, and a ground. Older wiring may only be three wires, two hots and a neutral. If this is the case, you can't use this feeder wire, you need to run new feeder wire for it to be safe!
#10
To add, in your panel, you will see there is no "main" breaker. It is what is referred to as a "lug" panel. Your main is at the panel near the PG&E meter. With that said, and what the others have brought out, it is more of a diy project than what you originally threw out there. Still, codes must be adhered to, and it will need permitting and inspection, so don't gloss over any of that. Good luck with it.
#12
there is a 100A breaker outside close to the PG&E meter, that I can open and I do not need to call the utility company or similar. Is this not usually the case? Should I remove that if I re-do the main panel?