NEW GFCI OUTLET: see if I'll install this correctly?

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  #1  
Old 02-10-12, 02:04 AM
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NEW GFCI OUTLET: see if I'll install this correctly?

QUESTION

If I simply connect the wires (as they are on the current outlet) to the new GFCI, while orienting the GFCI like the current outlet (smile up or down/ground up or down) will it be okay?

BACKGROUND INFO

DuPage County, IL
I live in an owned condo
Building is shared with 3 neighbors (4 units per building)
Circuit is 15 amp
7 circuits in breaker box
I believe there are NO green grounding wires and ground is via the metal conduit piping in the wall

SUMMARY

I bought a GFCI outlet to replace my only garage outlet. Below is how the outlet is wired now. In the garage I have only that outlet and a light switch that controls the only light in the garage. The outlet stays on when the light switch is switched off. Yet I never turn off the light switch because the garage door is powered by the socket above the door opener.

So Iím hoping I install this right. I read the directions in the box with the GFCI and WOW they really go all out in directions. I learned something after reading it a few times and in my short time on this forum, Iíve learned a ton from you guys. And since you guys know what the heck you are doing it never hurts to get support.




Directions from the GFCI outlet box

 
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Old 02-10-12, 06:06 AM
pcboss's Avatar
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You are going to need to cut the blue wire where it is stripped after turning off the power.

If no downstream GFI protection is needed you could insert both ends of the blue on the brass side clamp and both whites on the silver side clamp. Use the LINE terminals.

If GFI protection is needed downstream you will need to find which half of the blue is now hot and insert it and the associated white in the line side. The downstream white and blue would use the LOAD terminals. You can determine downstream by seeing what is without power after cutting the blue.

Run a green jumper between the box and the green screw on the GFI. You will need a 10-32 screw for the tapped hole in the back of the box.
 
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Old 02-10-12, 06:10 PM
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pcboss gives good advice and it sounds as if no grounding conductors are directly connected to the switches and receptacles, but there should be.

I believe there are NO green grounding wires and ground is via the metal conduit piping in the wall
Due to no green grounding wires being in the boxes, you are correct, the grounding is through the metal conduit system. But, there should be a grounding conductor from each metal box to each device (switches and receptacles). Evidently, the original electrical contractor was relying on the device screws to ground each device and that used to be commonly done, but that does not meet code. pcboss recommends:

Run a green jumper between the box and the green screw on the GFI. You will need a 10-32 screw for the tapped hole in the back of the box.
That will work just fine to ground each device and bring your installation into compliance, but you can also use a pre-made grounding pigtail, complete with the screw like this:

Solid Wire Grounding Tails
 
  #4  
Old 02-17-12, 04:52 AM
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Pcboss said:

"You are going to need to cut the blue wire where it is stripped after turning off the power.

If no downstream GFI protection is needed you could insert both ends of the blue on the brass side clamp and both whites on the silver side clamp. Use the LINE terminals.

If GFI protection is needed downstream you will need to find which half of the blue is now hot and insert it and the associated white in the line side. The downstream white and blue would use the LOAD terminals. You can determine downstream by seeing what is without power after cutting the blue.


I'm tired and need to sleep but I DID go out there and label everything and took new pictures of BEFORE (I've done nothing yet will do after you guys post again).

I could just install the way you said PCboss by not having any GFCI protection downstream (if there is a downstream). Only one outlet in the garage and only one light switch and one ceiling light fixture.

I see the yellow wire running from the light switch to the fixture on the ceiling (or at least my guess). Since you guys are electrical gurus, could you tell which way the power is flowing and which is downstream so I don't have to cut that blue wire in half and monkey with it?

I did buy a multimeter at Menards before it closed last night. Fun stuff. I'll come back here when I wake and edit this to make more sense. Too tired now...



Here is a drawing of the pictures above

 
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