Hi Folks
New member here - what a great site.
I have a hunting camp, off the grid (it will always be so), in northern Maine.
Just got a Yamaha EF2000iS to provide quiet comfort (I'm getting old )
It has two 120V AC outlets. Plan is to use extension cords (12/3), but during some times of the year it's not good to have a window or door open to allow cord ingress. What is the best way to do this? (I know better than to build a suicide cable...)
Thanks in advance

 

I would suggest putting a small breaker panel in the cabin and installing in a code approved manner receptacles and lights. Install an inlet outside and connect to the breaker box. Be sure to put an in-use cover on the inlet. If you are strictly using 120v you may need to use just one side of a 240v breaker panel or convert it to 120v.

Plan B the simpler plan is inlet on the outside wired to a receptacle on the inside.

 

Ray, thanks for the quick reply.
That's the direction I was headed, but can't seem to find an appropriate 'inlet' for outside (it would have to have male connections, correct?)

 

Here is one. It may be a little small for your generator output, but there are larger ones, just do a little search.

Amazon.com: Leviton 5278-CWP 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Power Inlet Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Gray: Home Improvement

 

Thanks goldstar. I found that one, and one from Reliance. Didn't think to Google 'inlet' (meaning: didn't think )

 

Please not the cover shown is not approved for in-use.

 

Right, nor was the Reliance product. I'm thinking two Leviton 5239's under a Hubbell marine grade hood.

 

I think you'd be better off using a L5-20 or L14-20 inlet. Then you can't overload a 14, 16 or 18AWG cord.

 

Given the costs of inlets and a good #12 cable for hook up I would just use one inlet if you can get near generator capacity out of one receptacle on the generator. Then you can add multiple receptacles to the single inlet.

Edit: The posted generator has a 15 amp output so one recptacle should be able to provide its full capacity. Yamaha Inverter EF2000iS Specifications, specs

 

Excellent. I'll use the other gen outlet for outdoor entertainment
Thanks Ray

 

Just curious, Briggs & Stratton makes an inverter generator with similar electrical specs. Did you do any comparisons? Is the Yamaha unit a lot quieter? How much did you have to pay for your Yamaha?

Where is Furd when you need him?

 

What is it you need from me?

 

Don't you have a Yamaha inverter generator (I was thinking you did)? Can you answer the questions I posed to the OP? I've been thinking of getting a small generator of my own.

 

Yes, I have a Yamaha EF3000iSE inverter generator. I converted it to use gaseous fuels (natural gas or propane) and it is a very quiet machine. Noise level is rated at 57 dBA at 23 feet. The Honda generators are the quietest I know of but also among the most expensive. My Yamaha might be slightly louder but it was significantly lower in cost. If I remember correctly I paid around $1800 (including shipping) for my unit.

 

I haven't looked at the B&S, I just looked at Yamaha and Honda.

I got the EF2000iS from yamahagenerators.com for $900 (email promo), free 2nd day UPS air shipping, no sales tax. That's the main reason I chose it over the equivalent Honda. In full disclosure I have a Yamaha snowmobile and a Big Bear ATV. In my experience you can't kill a Yamaha. So I may be a little biased.

They have almost identical specs, except that the Yamaha has a fuel petcock so you can run the carb bowl dry. I arrived yesterday in good shape. Put in the oil and it fired up 2nd pull. Unbelievably easy it is to start.

 

Another question to prove my noobiness...
Assuming the inlet plug and in-use cover are properly installed, how important is the use of outdoor grade Romex wire running from the inlet through the wall to the interior panel? It's a pain to work with for such a short run.

 

Romex is a BRAND NAME for non-metallic cable. What you are referring to is type UF (or UF-b) which is Underground Feeder. I agree it is difficult to work with and I will do almost anything to avoid it. If you use the proper fittings and box there should be no problem in using type NM cable as long as it does not "run" outside but only "enters" the box with the inlet connection.

OR, you could use flexible conduit, either metallic or non-metallic, with type THHN/THWN individual conductors. This would be my preference. Stuff some duct seal in the open end of the conduit (or in and around the connector for type NM cable) to decrease moisture traveling through the conduit or cable.

 

Furd, what kind of loads do you run on your Yamaha? Will it support a 1/3 HP furnace blower motor?

 

I can live quite comfortably on generator power although I have not had to for more than four hours. It runs my forced air, gas furnace with variable speed blower (which I believe is rated at 3/4 hp maximum); my refrigerator; television and either DVD player or DVD recorder or my computer along with either my toaster oven or microwave oven. Because of the stupid way my house was originally wired I also can run about 80% of the fixed lighting although I limit it to just what is necessary.

I read once (unofficial blurb) that this machine can put out about 8,000 watts for three seconds, the official output is 2800 watts at 100% power factor and 3,000 watts for twenty minutes. Some day I might try connecting my table saw (1-1/2 hp) and see how it handles it and then try adding other load. While I would always prefer bigger I'm quite satisfied with this little machine. It might trip if the refrigerator or furnace started while the microwave is on but I've not experienced it.