LED for par can

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  #1  
Old 03-12-12, 05:18 PM
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LED for par can

I bought a LED fixture that fits in a 4inch can
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The thing is when I pushed the fixture in I niked the black wire from the can's socket. What should I do replace the socket or should I just take the can's socket out and also the LED socket out and use marettes? The thing is I don't have much cable from the box the romex is about 6 inches long and was cut to length!!!







 
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  #2  
Old 03-12-12, 06:12 PM
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Cut the wire at the damaged spot and re-splice with a wirenut.
 
  #3  
Old 03-12-12, 08:09 PM
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Just the black wire or should I cut all 3? I think the socket takes too much space and the LED doesn't sit properly. I wonder if cutting all 3 wires and by passing that socket would be safe? I'll try your idea thanks.
 
  #4  
Old 03-12-12, 08:14 PM
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I have 2 more questions

What is that silver aluminum box? It seems sealed




Also why is the black wire looping through a small "box" inside the can?

 
  #5  
Old 03-12-12, 09:10 PM
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That small box should be the thermal sensor that shuts the light off if it gets too hot.
 
  #6  
Old 03-13-12, 03:58 AM
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The label on the larger box reads, "Max of 6 #14 or 6 #12 AWG branch circuit conductors suitable for at least 60 C permitted in junction box. Made in Canada."

You should be able to make the splices inside the box, but don't bypass the thermal sensor.
 
  #7  
Old 03-13-12, 04:28 AM
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What's that larger box for? Is it just an enclosure?
 
  #8  
Old 03-13-12, 05:24 AM
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I would not splice the conductor that is damaged. The wiring has a high temperature insulation that regular wiring does not. Since the fixture is out of the ceiling I would replace it.

The larger box is where your splices to connect to the building wire are made.
 
  #9  
Old 03-13-12, 07:32 AM
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I just did a few 6" LED retros, and wonder why 4" is over 2x the $$? A 6" Halo 14w is just shy of $100.
 
  #10  
Old 03-13-12, 08:17 AM
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Even the regular incandescent 4" are way more than the 6". Must be a volume thing.
 
  #11  
Old 03-13-12, 01:31 PM
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I'd cut the wire, use an uninsulated butt splice, give it a fibreglass sleeve (like you find in a heating appliance) and cover that with some heat-shrink tubing.
 
  #12  
Old 03-13-12, 06:08 PM
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I just did a few 6" LED retros, and wonder why 4" is over 2x the $$? A 6" Halo 14w is just shy of $100.
This is the same reason why I do not understand why people seam to go for smaller (3" & 4") cans. They cost more. The trims cost more. They give less light. The lamps cost more. I guess I am too practical.

We installed some low voltage mini-cans in a company lobby with a small eyeball type trim. They used 50 watt MR16 lamps. The cans themselves were about $250!!!!! a pop. (there was 5) Architects.
 
  #13  
Old 03-13-12, 06:18 PM
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We installed some low voltage mini-cans in a company lobby with a small eyeball type trim. They used 50 watt MR16 lamps. The cans themselves were about $250!!!!! a pop. (there was 5) Architects.
hahahahahaha I think interior designers play a big role in that too!
 
  #14  
Old 03-13-12, 09:41 PM
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I got a bug up my rear a couple of years ago to install some small LED night lights that would run off of a battery so I could use them during power failures without running my generator. I first started with a simple multi-LED replacement bulb glued to a blank cover and connected to a 7 AH 12 volt SLA battery. I have been using this in my kitchen for about a year or maybe a little more. It gives enough light at night to see my way to the refrigerator and when in use for about 6 hours a night requires me to recharge the battery for about three hours every couple of weeks. Long term plans are to put in a small PE panel and use solar to recharge.

I recently bought some el-cheapo 3 inch recessed cans that use GU10 bulbs. I have taken out the (120 volt incandescent) bulbs and the sockets and replaced them with MR16 12 volt LED lamps and sockets. These will be used in my bathrooms and hallway. The hall lights will use 6 watt bulbs (quite a lot of light) and will be connected via relay to an additional battery with the relay controlled from the fire alarm auxiliary circuit for exit light lighting.

Today I replaced the light in the kitchen with a 4 inch remodel housing. It looks a lot better than the jury-rigged lamp I had before, only downside is that it takes about 60 mA current instead of the 40 mA the previous light used. Upside is that it also gives out more light. I'll know tonight if it is too much light. I think I paid about $20 for this fixture and then another $3 for the bulb.
 
  #15  
Old 03-14-12, 06:52 PM
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How do I open the splice box? That thing seems sealed and there's no screws either. Also the romex connected to the can seems to be fixed there's no setscrews or anything to disconnect the romex from the can
 
  #16  
Old 03-14-12, 09:19 PM
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Many splice boxes have a spring clip that can be moved by your thumb and then allow the cover to be removed.
 
  #17  
Old 03-17-12, 08:51 PM
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I went to 3 different stores today and couldn't find a 4" can replacement. I was thinking to replace the female socket but the only sockets I found have no ground
 
  #18  
Old 03-19-12, 09:21 AM
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Bulb sockets are typically only 2 wires, without a ground. The fixture itself normally provides the grounding means or tail.
 
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