Meter Socket with Disconnect and Breaker

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  #1  
Old 04-03-12, 05:56 PM
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Meter Socket with Disconnect and Breaker

I would like to upgrade my new residence from 60 amp fuse box to a 100 amp breaker panel. Minnesota Power requires new service entrances to include a meter socket with a built in disconnect. If I use a meter socket with the required disconnect and a built in 200 amp breaker (1) will that make all panels beyond that 200A breaker 'sub-panels'? (2) what wire would be require from the weather head to the meter? (3) what wire would be required from the meter to my 100 amp breaker panel?
 
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Old 04-03-12, 06:09 PM
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If I use a meter socket with the required disconnect and a built in 200 amp breaker
You said you wanted to upgrade to a 100 amp panel, why are you using a meter socket with a 200 amp breaker disconnect? If you MUST use this socket and disconnect, you need to upgrade your panel to 200 amps. That being said, you would use 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum, 3 conductors, from the weatherhead down to the meter. From the 200 amp breaker disconnect to the panel you should probably use 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum SER cable.
 
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Old 04-04-12, 11:10 PM
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I am unable to find the meter socket w/disconnect with a 100 amp breaker. Since this enclosure has a buss that allows multiple (4) sub-panels breaker I assume it needs to be 200A. This panel also has lugs at the bottom of the buss that would allow connecting to a panel without using a breaker at that location. I would like to come out of those lugs and run to a house panel with a 100A main. Would that pass inspection? If so would I need 4/0 SER to go from the lugs to the 100A main?
 
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Old 04-05-12, 07:42 AM
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Why not get a meter/loadcenter panel and use a space in it to feed your 100A panel as a subpanel?
 
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Old 04-05-12, 08:54 AM
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I already own the meter panel w/200A breaker and the house panel with 100A breaker. I would like to know if I can do this job with the equipment I have and not buy the 100A breaker for the meter panel and another house breaker panel with no main breaker.
 
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Old 04-05-12, 09:28 AM
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If the two panels are the same manufacturer you may be able to swap the breakers. Since the breaker in the second panel (subpanel) only serves as a disconnect it can be larger then the first breaker (main breaker). Even though a main breaker may not be required in the second panel (subpanel) it is okay to have one.
 
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Old 04-05-12, 05:09 PM
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I am unable to find the meter socket w/disconnect with a 100 amp breaker. Since this enclosure has a buss that allows multiple (4) sub-panels breaker I assume it needs to be 200A. This panel also has lugs at the bottom of the buss that would allow connecting to a panel without using a breaker at that location. I would like to come out of those lugs and run to a house panel with a 100A main.
Do you have pictures or a spec on the meter/disconnect combo. From your description it sounds as if you could just install a 100 amp breaker under the 200 amp breaker and feed your subpanel from that 100 amp breaker. The lugs at the bottom are probably feed-thru lugs which would allow you to feed a 200 amp panel that would be protected by your 200 amp breaker. More info would help.
 
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Old 04-05-12, 05:28 PM
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Welcome fellow Minnesotan!

MN power companies require meter socket to also have a bypass handle.


(1) Yes, the rest of the panels will be sub panels. The outside panel is your main. You will also need to install a ground wire to your water pipe (#4 copper, #2 aluminum) and a ground rod with #6 copper going to the neutral buss.

(2) You wire to the weather head to the meter AND from the meter to the main breaker (if not installed) needs to be 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum.

(3) Here is where it gets a little tricky. If you come off your feed through lugs of the outdoor panel, you will need 200 amp rated wires (2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum) because that is what the breaker is rated at protecting those wires. This would be a waste of money feeding a 100 amp panel with 200 amp wire since it will only be fused at 100 amps

A better option is to get a 2 pole, 100 amp breaker, and install it in your outdoor panel. Then you could feed your 100 amp panel with #3 copper or #2 aluminum. A 100 amp breaker, depending on brand, will run you $30-$60. Well below the cost of 200 amp wire.
All your equipment you have, will then work.
 
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