ELectric Water Heater allowed in bathroom ?

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  #1  
Old 05-06-12, 12:32 AM
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ELectric Water Heater allowed in bathroom ?

Q: is a regular 40 gallon electric water heater allowed in a bathroom (its a big bathroom and the water heater will be in the corner at least 6' from nearest regular outlet, thanks what are do's don'ts, etc. thanks.
Also is it possible to simply staple romex 10-3 to bottom trusses of house (it has crawl space). NEC 2008 is the active code for this county in florida.
I could also install hot water tank outside but would have to build a waterproof closet to put it back where it was on the back porch (replaceing older gas type with electirc) I think?
Thanks for any and all help ,
 
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Old 05-06-12, 05:03 AM
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Welcome to the forums! There's no prohibition in having the WH located in the bathroom, provided it is at least 3' from any water source, like the shower, toilet, sink, etc. However, the T&P valve must be routed outside the house and pointed to within 6" of the ground. There, likewise, is no prohibition in stapling the romex to the joists, provided it is protected by using running boards or through bored holes. (as in no walk space, etc.) It is better to staple it to the rafter part just to preclude that. I am assuming, since you are in Florida, you are on a slab and the "crawl space" is actually the "attic".

Mod Note: The cables are too small to just be stapled to the joist bottoms without protection.
 

Last edited by pcboss; 05-07-12 at 06:26 AM. Reason: technical correction
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Old 05-06-12, 07:52 AM
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Also is it possible to simply staple romex 10-3 to bottom trusses of house
All you really need is 10-2 NM B cable (aka Romex) for the water heater. It comes with a 3rd bare grounding conductor.

Mod Note: The dryer will require 10-3 with ground cable.
 

Last edited by pcboss; 05-07-12 at 06:27 AM. Reason: clarification
  #4  
Old 05-06-12, 10:08 PM
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Yes I am in florida, also there really is a crawl space underneath the house, and the question is do they allow a simple stapling to the joist underneath the house. I also have to come up... code they are using is NEC 2008. What conduit is allowed pvc grey ,etc to come up the wall to the top of water heater. Heater will be in corner of bathroom (thankfully the bathroom is huge), so the nearest other electric is 6.5 fee away from where electric wire goes into top of tank. Nearest water will be 5 ft away later (optional). Also would like to put dryer in next to water tank (any problems with that for NEC 2008 code?) bringing wire up thru either wall or floor and either in wall mount or outside on floorboard sidewize external mounting.. what do you suggest to use for conduit to get thru the floor either in the wall or outside the wall? Hope this is not too much to ask.. thanks ahead of time.


Thanks, I want to put a dryer directly beside it,, does NEC 2008 code require 10-2 (3 wires) or 10-3 (4 wires) to the dryer, what about getting up through the floor,, I think the require a short piece of conduit to get up fhru the wood of the floor, any suggestions (thinking grey pvc) . I am in FL but it is not in the attic but rather in the crawl space beneath the house where the joists I want to staple the NM (romex ) wire to. Hope I am on the right track.
Another problem is someone told me that they don't like romex (NM) in grey pvc conduit IF its outside (they consider grey pvc conduit as a wet area if its outside (my question is if the grey pvc is glued correctly its waterproof so what is the problem); anyway I need to get down from a fusebox located outside on the back porch (under roof but still technically could get wet with a hurricane type sideways rain), the issue is how to get from fusbox at 4' to floor and under house without having to put the NM romex in the grey conduit.. geez they make it so difficult to just run a few simple wires. I would have thought as many have for last 30 years that the grey pvc conduit was the way to go, I hear , no more. what do you think. thanks for any advice.
 
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Old 05-06-12, 10:52 PM
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does NEC 2008 code require 10-2 (3 wires) or 10-3 (4 wires) to the dryer,
If the dryers is 120/240 and most are then 10-3 which is four wires.

someone told me that they don't like romex (NM) in grey pvc conduit IF its outside (they consider grey pvc conduit as a wet area if its outside (my question is if the grey pvc is glued correctly its waterproof so what is the problem); anyway I need to get down from a fusebox located outside on the back porch (under roof but still technically could get wet with a hurricane type sideways rain), the issue is how to get from fusbox at 4' to floor and under house without having to put the NM romex in the grey conduit.. geez they make it so difficult to just run a few simple wires.
Condensate can form even in sealed conduit over time. Best practice is to use THWN type single conductor wires if the run is continuous otherwise you can use UF-b cable and just use the conduit to sleeve the UF where needed for protection.
 
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Old 05-06-12, 11:39 PM
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I don't suppose that the NEC 2008 code allows for joining UF 10-3 and NM (romex ) 10-3 to get around the outside parts, in other words, if I run UF down the grey conduit from the 4' high circuit breaker box to get under porch floor, then juncion box it to romex to do the 20 ' length, then up and into the wall or thru the floor.. what do you think? The other way might be to go thru the back of the CB box and into the wall, then down inside the wall to under the house, then go the 20' to the place where I need to go up thru floor or into wall space (either way).. need to do both dryer and hot water tank... for the h2o tank I need to figure a way to get from under the house either thru the floor or inside the wall to get up the 4' level of the top of the tank.. any suggestions? thanks ahead of time.
 
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Old 05-07-12, 06:18 AM
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If you are going to use conduit continuous to the fuse box best practice is to use individual conductors such as THWN. Yes, you can use a junction box transposition to NM-b inside. I'd suggest conduit under the house to reduce critters chewing the wire then at the point where you come up through the floor place a junction box and transition to NM-b cable.

One question, do you really have a fuse box? If so are you sure you have room and or capacity for additional circuits?
 
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Old 05-07-12, 06:19 AM
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I think a PVC conduit sleeve from the floor up to the top of the tank would be acceptable if you cannot get into the wall cavity.

Yes you can splice UF to the NM in an accessible junction box.

This is the code cite about stapling to joist bottoms.

334.15
(C) In Unfinished Basements and crawl spaces.
Where the cable is run at angles with joists in unfinished basements and crawl spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller than two 6 AWG or three 8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges of thejoists. Smaller cables shall be run either through bored
holes in joists or on running boards.

You will need to use running boards or through bored holes.
 
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Old 05-07-12, 01:50 PM
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Jim, that's for under floor crawls. I was assuming (Florida - slab construction), and the OP was using the nomenclature of "crawl" as the crawl only attic space in many homes. Thanks for clearing that up for him, once it was determined he had a crawl space under the home. city not mentioned.
 
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Old 05-07-12, 06:33 PM
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for the h2o tank I need to figure a way to get from under the house either thru the floor or inside the wall to get up the 4' level of the top of the tank
Don't forget you'll need a 30 amp disconnect switch before you hit the water heater. The dryer's plug/receptacle connection qualifies as a disconnecting means.
 
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Old 05-07-12, 07:32 PM
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(replaceing older gas type with electirc)
Side question: If you have gas available, is there a particular reason you want to use electricity to heat your water instead?
 
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