We just recently bought an Above Ground Pool (48'' Depth and metal poles so don't think it counts as a storable) and would like to run 220v and 120v service to the pool about 100-120 ft away from a 100 amp sub service panel in the basement. I have done all of the permits and wiring for our basement but have not worked much with 220v or pool work. Doing it yourself is the best way to learn and save some money so here I am. I have done a lot of research online and with a NEC book but would like my plan sanity checked and a few questions answered. Heat Pump 220v- 40 AMP breaker required per manufacture 120V - 20 AMP for pump (1 HP-3' plug/cord) and salt chlorinator 1) From 100 AMP sub panel run 5 #8 THWN conductors (2 Black, Red, White, Green) from regular 40AMP and 20 AMP breakers. Green may possibly be #10 size. 2) Flexbile PVC conduit to box near wall then 1'' rigid PVC out of house along outside wall and underground 18'' to pool area - about 100-120' distance. 3) Black, White, and Green THWN coductors to pole with Outdoor rated box with 120v GFCI recepticle for pump, etc.. 4) Black, Red and Green THWN conductors to outdoor rated box with 40 AMP GFCI breaker (assume this counts as service disconnect) then flexible PVC to Heat Pump 5) Junction boxes and plugs will be 5' from pool and grounded with #10 copper wire to copper rod in the ground Questions: 1) Would it be easier or more economical to run a 60 amp service to the area and split 220v and 120v from a pool area junction box? 2) Was told it would be okay to run 1 ground matched to the highest amperage (40 AMP/220V) for both the 220v and 120v run? 3) According to online wire size calculators both the 220v and 120v should be #8 conductors, this seems overkill for the 120v line. Was told #10 or #12 would be fine? I appreciate any help, guidance, or criticism.

I recently remodeled my basement. I added a subpanel in my basement but left one circuit connected to my main breaker to power lights during construction. That circuit does not have an AFCI breaker, and the inspector is telling me it now must have one. Unfortunately that breaker is thin, the breaker box is full, and they don't make thin AFCI breakers (please tell me if you know of one). My sump pump in my mechanical room happens to be connected to the existing circuit and the electrical wiring to that is easily accessible. Further it's at the end of the line, so there is only one wire going into that outlet. I am thinking about cutting the line running to the sump pump and running each end into my sub panel. There I'll be able to add two breakers. One AFCI for the lights and one regular for the sump pump. First of all, is there anything flawed with this logic? Then at the old breaker box I would disconnect the breaker. Problem there is I'll then have a live wire that is powered by the sub panel sitting there in the main panel. Assuming I can't find a junction box to disconnect this wire from the powered sub panel circuit, what is the proper way to terminate the powered loose wire in the main panel?