Fuse question

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  #1  
Old 06-04-12, 11:33 PM
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Question Fuse question

Hi all,
I have a fuse question:

I have an air compressor that connects to my car battery so I can air up my tires (Jeep).

It takes a 35 ATC fuse which I can't seem to find in any stores. All they have is 30 or 40, no 35. I ordered some online, but am going wheeling this weekend and looks like they won't get here in time.

When I was at Radio Shack, the guy there said just use a 30. Sure enough, the 30 worked briefly, but they seem to pop really easy and I went through 5 or 6 of them to air up 3 wheels.

So would a 40 work better until I get the 35's in the mail? Or is there a reason the Radio Shack guy said to get a 30 and not a 40?

Or if anyone has a store I can get a 35 in? I've tried Home Depot, Lowe's, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, and Radio Shack.
 
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Old 06-05-12, 03:58 AM
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Welcome to the forums! The reason the RS guy steered you to the 30 amp fuse was for safety purposes. If the unit calls for a 35 amp, it is better to under fuse it than to cause wiring to melt by using too large a fuse. I believe, however, if it is blowing 30 amp fuses, 35 amp fuses won't make much difference. You really have a load on there. Is it a factory unit, or has it been modified? If you choose to use a 40, keep an eye on the wiring to make sure the pump is not pulling too much amperage. If so, it will cause a problem with the wiring from and to the pump. The smaller wire becomes your fuse at that point.
 
  #3  
Old 06-05-12, 02:09 PM
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It hasn't been modified.

Part of the reason it's probably blowing fuses is because the power switch is broken, it is always in the 'on' position. So the way I turn it on and off is by connecting the positive clip to the car battery. When I want it off, I un-clip. If a fuse is going to blow, it will do it when I reconnect it.

Two 35 amp fuses lasted me around 4 months, whereas the 30 amp lasts pretty much through one disconnect and reconnect. So that's why I figured maybe the 40 would be better than the 30.

Yeah, I know I should either fix the switch or buy a new compressor. I'm trying to avoid buying a new one right now. I have two weekends in a row that I will need the compressor. After that, I will probably try to replace the power switch (assuming radio shack carries something similar).
 
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Old 06-05-12, 08:07 PM
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The reason the RS guy steered you to the 30 amp fuse was for safety purposes.
Safety purposes? Maybe, but I think he recommended the 30 amp fuse because he had them in stock and made a sale. I am no fan of Radio Shack, too many bad experiences with the dumb*** cheap ***tards.
 
  #5  
Old 06-05-12, 08:38 PM
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So will I be ok with a 40 fuse for one trip? If I have to get the 30, I'm probably going to need a dozen of them for 4 tires.
 
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Old 06-05-12, 09:34 PM
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So will I be ok with a 40 fuse for one trip? If I have to get the 30, I'm probably going to need a dozen of them for 4 tires.
I would buy a couple of dozen 30A fuses, just to be sure. I would not install a 40A fuse if it was handed to me for free. Burning up the wiring harness in my Jeep is not my idea of a fun wheeling weekend.

I think the RS clerk did his job just the way he should have. I'm wondering what your reaction - and your attorney's reaction - would be if he had sold you a 40A fuse, told you there was no danger in using that in an app that specified 35A protection, and then your Jeep's wiring had caught fire before the fuse blew.

I think that clerk protected himself and his company by protecting you.
 
  #7  
Old 06-05-12, 10:32 PM
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Ok, that makes sense. Glad I asked and didn't just try it and cross my fingers (and wires lol).

I ordered a 2nd pack of 35A fuses from a closer place, hopefully they will make it in time. If not, I'll wait until Friday afternoon to hit Radio Shack and pick up a bunch of the 30's.

Thanks all for the help! This forum is proof that I shouldn't be messing with loose wires.

I still want to try to repair the power switch though. I work with computers, but yeah, electricity is a whole different ball game.
 
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Old 06-06-12, 07:22 AM
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I work with computers, but yeah, electricity is a whole different ball game.
A lot of people don't get that. I'm glad you do.
 
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Old 06-06-12, 03:59 PM
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When I want it off, I un-clip. If a fuse is going to blow, it will do it when I reconnect it.
That might be why it is blowing the fuse. It might have too much head pressure and is locked up when you reconnect. Wait a few mins. before reconnecting.
 
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Old 06-09-12, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by CasualJoe View Post
Safety purposes? Maybe, but I think he recommended the 30 amp fuse because he had them in stock and made a sale. I am no fan of Radio Shack, too many bad experiences with the dumb*** cheap ***tards.
I used to work for RS.. Trust me, 99% of the associates would've sent him somewhere else for the proper fuse. We always hated people who came in for a battery or fuse because one of the metrics they track is "Dollars per ticket" - and a $2 pack of fuses with no add-ons kills your average - especially if you get a string of them in a row. It's not worth the 5 in commission for the hell we'd get at the monthly meeting for having a low $PT. He was being helpful, he didn't do it for the sale.

Rick, I would try an actual car audio shop. Not bestbuy, one of the hole-in-the-wall places that does installs. 35A is a common size for amplifiers.
 
  #11  
Old 06-09-12, 04:00 AM
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If you're turning it on and off by connecting directly to the car battery with clamps, the only possible damage that will be done with a 40-amp fuse is to the compressor wiring. It won't hurt the Jeep's wiring at all.

However, connecting to a car battery has its own potential dangers. Believe me -- I've been on the receiving end of a car battery explosion. Wear safety glasses. Seriously. You can wash battery acid off your skin, and you can shed your clothes in a hurry. But you can't get it out of your eyes fast enough to prevent permanent damage. Thank God I was wearing sunglasses!
 
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