2 hp motor stumper.


Old 06-19-12, 10:56 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3
2 hp motor stumper.

Hi folks.

I have something that stumping me & hope someone can offer some advice. I am no electrician, but I work on a lot of small (gas) engines - mostly chainsaws - and I don't think this one is beyond my ability but I think i need some help.

I recently acquired a big (600lb) old cast iron cabin table saw. Near as I can tell, its an old General 250R. It has, what appears to be, a relatively new Baldor L1317 motor.

When I look at this motor it shows me what I believe is dual voltage (under amps it shows 24/12.6-12 Does this not mean that it can be wired for 24amp, or, 12 amp service? (See picture below)

I have only 20 amp available to me and even though the wiring seems to be set up for 'low voltage' i am still tripping the breaker almost any time I turn on the saw. Other times it runs fine & can cut etc without tripping.

I know that I have the option of getting an electrician in and putting in a 30amp line, or going and getting a 1.5hp engine, but it seems to me there should be some way to run this on a 20amp breaker... am i dreaming?

Thanks so much in advance for any info/advice.

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Old 06-19-12, 11:13 PM
Justin Smith's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cressona, Pa, USA
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You need a 30A circuit.
Old 06-20-12, 02:13 AM
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
Usually people recommend hooking the motor up with the high voltage connection when the amp loads are this high, will help with voltage drop too if it's a long run. That requires some changing of connections in the motor's terminal box. Either way it requires a dedicated circuit. Motor leads are frustrating because they're not labelled, as it's assumed everyone knows what they are.
Old 06-20-12, 03:46 AM
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: VA.
Posts: 813
If you have 240 volts available, you'll need to install a double pole 20 amp breaker(#12 wire) to feed the saw.

At the saw, you'll need to change the plug and receptacle to a 20 amp 250 volt 3-wire or install a disconnect if it's not within sight of your panel(standard a/c disconnect will do)

At the motor, you'll need to change the motor leads as follows:
Motor lead 1(blue)- line 1
Motor leads 4(yellow)5(Black)-Line 2
Motor leads 2(white) 3(orange) 8(red) joined together
If the motor runs backwards switch leads 5 & 8

You'll need to verify all this because I can't see your high voltage diagram or your motor lead colors.
Old 06-20-12, 06:17 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
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Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Just for clarity:
In order for the motor to draw 12 amps you need to wire it for 240 volts. At 120 volts the motor draws 24 amps which is why it is tripping your breaker. DO NOT just install a 30 amp breaker UNLESS you have #10 wire the entire circuit length.
Old 06-21-12, 02:49 PM
Nashkat1's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 8,470
Read the Voltage and the Amps lines on the nameplate as a pair - each # on the Voltage line corresponds to the number on the same position on the Amps line. That means your saw is drawing 2,760 Watts, give or take a few. That's 24A at 115V, or 12A at 230V, or 12.6A at 208V. (I make it 13.2A at 208V but it doesn't matter, 'cause you only have 240V single-phase (120V split-phase) power available.)

I would run it a dedicated 240V line in a heartbeat, 'cause it's likely to run stronger and smoother at the higher voltage. It looks like you could do it with a 2-pole 15A breaker and 14AWG wire, if it's not too long a run.

Specifications: Baldor L1317
Old 06-21-12, 10:16 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3
Thanks a lot guys. The replies have helped a lot & at least i have a starting point now.

The electrical box is literally 20 ft away so I am pretty sure the simplest solution (and best) is just going to be to bring in an electrician to put in one dedicated line & be done with it.

Maybe I'll get two as I am starting to accumulate more electric tools these days - it was always just gas ones that I had an addiction to. lol.

Thanks again

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