Upgrading service 100A->200A

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  #1  
Old 06-22-12, 12:25 PM
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Upgrading service 100A->200A

Bought a house last November. Electrical is somewhat dodgey. Wires arn't stapled in basement and in both bedrooms up stairs only 1 out of 4 receptacles work.

Here is a picture of the panel
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So I'm removing this old thing and upgrading with a 200A cutler hammer panel I got for $200 including AFCI breaker. Service comes in side of my house through a crawlspace (about 1.5 - 2ft heigh crawlspace).

Anyways heres the photo of the pipe coming in from the meter outside.

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Looks like they put that pink insulation to seal? Gotta change that. Also doesn't that need to be a grounding bushing where the pipe hooks up to the back of the panel?

I'm pulling the permit/calling the inspector.

My local code allows the use of 2/0 AWG for 200A service. Then there will be reduced neutral #6 awg from the meter right?

The panel is a large one so if I dont have enough slack to connect to the new panel are you allowed to junction box all of the wires that wont fit?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-22-12, 01:24 PM
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If the cables make it into the panel, you can add splices there. My electrician used butt connectors, but I think wire nuts shouldn't be a problem.
 
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Old 06-22-12, 01:41 PM
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My local code allows the use of 2/0 AWG for 200A service. Then there will be reduced neutral #6 awg from the meter right?
Unless Canada has very different requirements from the U.S., the neutral is the same size as the other two current-carrying conductors. Perhaps you're thinking of the Grounding Electrode Conductor, which is typically run in 6AWG bare copper? That looks like it in the lower left corner of your panel. Not sure how it got there, though.
 
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Old 06-22-12, 06:23 PM
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My local code allows the use of 2/0 AWG for 200A service
If that is 2/0 copper, that requirement would be the same as the NEC.

Then there will be reduced neutral #6 awg from the meter right?
Reduced neutrals are also allowed by the NEC. Although I am not sure of the minimum size for a 200 amp copper neutral, I am sure #6 is too small. I would guess that maybe a 1/0 or #1 copper would be the minimum size. #6 copper would be the grounding electrode conductor going to the ground rod, #4 copper or #2 aluminum grounding electrode conductor to the water line entry into the house. Think of 200 amp rated aluminum URD. The two hot conductors are 4/0 and the neutral conductor is 2/0.

Service comes in side of my house through a crawlspace (about 1.5 - 2ft heigh crawlspace).
How long will the service conductors be from where the enter the envelope of the house and terminate at the panel? You may need a disconnect at the meter.

Also doesn't that need to be a grounding bushing where the pipe hooks up to the back of the panel?
The picture shows the conduit entering the back of the panel, but I see no concentric knockouts. A grounding locknut would be sufficient, a bonding bushing would not be required.
 
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Old 06-23-12, 09:37 AM
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You should pull out the fiberglass insulation and seal the pipe using ductseal.

A grounding bushing also is not need if there is no steel connecting the meter and the main panel. (IE PVC conduit)
 
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Old 06-23-12, 04:36 PM
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The CEC does not allow splices to be made in the panel.

The fiberglass insulation was to slow down air movement through the conduit and prevent condensation.
 
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