Wiring a switch and gfci outlet combo

I just picked up a Leviton Switch and GFCI outlet combo model T7299-W.

What I want to do is replace the normal gfci outlet in my kitchen (which protects all the other kitchen outlets) with this one. My goal is to have the one outlet on this switch/combo be turned on and off with the switch (for undercabinet lighting) and the other outlets that are off of this string remain hot all the time. Can this be done with this?

There are two wires off the back of the outlet which I take are for the switch, but I do not know how to wire this so the outlet below it can be switched while the remaining outlets in the kitchen stay hot all the time and protected.

thanks for the help.

 

No, sorry. If you want to switch the under-cabinet lights with this switch, you will have to install a cable from the box your GFCI receptacle is in to a separate box mounted under the cabinet, where you can tie the switched power to the counter lighting.

Or you could mount a switch where the cable from here meets the under-cabinet lighting, and power that cable off the LINE terminals on your existing GFCI. Or you could feed the new switch from any box, tying into any circuit that has enough capacity.

 

Code wise hard wired lighting can not be on a counter top circuit. Maybe plugged in is okay but when you add a switch I suspect that puts you on the wrong side of the code.

 

I don't know why I didn't think to say that you tie the lights to the switched power by mounting a single receptacle in that box under the cabinet and plugging the lights into that. Brain freeze, I think(?)

 

Can this outlet switch combo be wired so the switch controls the attached outlet? Then I could just continue the hot in this box to the next outlet. Then use the old gfci outlet in place of the normal outlet in the run to cover the ramaining outlets?

 

I think you're asking whether the switch in this receptacle/switch combo can be made to control the receptacle that is the other part of it. If so, the answer is no, it can't.

 

Nash, I'm lost is that because the switch is usually not rated for 20 amps?

 

Hmm. How would you do it? Feed the switch and then feed the GFCI from that? Would that do what the OP has in mind?

I guess I hadn't thought of it that way.

OK, try it.

 

I thought you could run the hot from the panel to the black wire that comes out the back of the switchcombo and then connect the other wire that comes from the switch that usually goes to say a light to the gold screw on the outlet portion. Then connect the neutral to the silver. Wouldn't this make the outlet portion controlled by theswitch? To get the power to next outlet I would have to do pigtails as when writing up regular outlets.

 

But you wrote So then you would be switching all the receptacles. You will have to bypass the switched GFCI receptacle by connecting the power in and power out together and to a pigtail* to your switch. Then place a new GFCI at the next receptacle to protect those receptacles downstream.

*Actually no pigtail needed for black just white. For black just wire nut together black power in, black power out, and one switch black.
White power in, white power out, pigtail wire nutted together.
Then white pigtail to line silver terminal.
Other switch lead to brass line side.