This is a surface-mount PVC electrical box. Notice the mounting "ears" on the outside and the slightly rounded corners. Notice also that the only entry into the box (other than the front, of course, is via slip fit hubs.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2061[/ATTACH]
(Image courtesy of Menards.com)
They come in all sizes and configurations.

This one is a die-cast (pot metal) box and it has threaded hubs. Commonly called a "Bell" box after the original manufacturer. They also come in all sizes and configurations. The die-cast material is more weather resistant (won't rust) but generally not as strong as steel and can be used in place of PVC

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2062[/ATTACH]
(Image courtesy of Needco.com)

This is a typical "old work" box. Note the "ears" that swing out to hold the face frame of the box against drywall. These are not suitable for anything but placement in existing walls.

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(Image courtesy of Quinby hardware.)

The last is a typical "new work" box for type NM cable. It is unsuitable for your installation. Notice how "open" it is.

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(Image courtesy of Amazon.com)


Oh, YES! UF is ungodly stiff compared to the same in NM. It is because with UF the outer jacket is literally molded around the inner conductors and there is NO movement of the inner conductors inside the jacket as there is with NM. Stripping UF is downright dangerous in my opinion because the plastic is so thick and stiff. It is VERY easy to have your knife slip and then everything gets covered in blood. With NM you can make a little cut and almost peel the jacket off. UF requires you to cut every single millimeter of that nasty jacket. Also very easy to nick the inner insulation when trying to remove the outer jacket.

I could have all the conduit and boxes installed and the wire pulled in that hen house before you got even the first bit of UF installed.

 

OK so UF cable is a lot of money. They do not sell short 10 ft lengths at mega mart. 50 ft was the shortest at some $50 +

I did run NM until I can find UF in shorter lengths. Running conduit may be an option but does not allow me to put the boxed where I want without doing some crazy turns.

Well here is what I got so far.


2x 20 amp breakers in the spa panel ( 50 amp GFI in main panel) I removed the GFI in the shed and installed a regular outlet since I am GFI protected at the main breaker.



No splice in here. I ran right into the coop with individual conductors. Will silicone around later today. Piece of pipe and a male adapter attaches to inside box.



Inside box. I could not find a plastic box with a back knockout that was off center. Since I already came into the coop and had my holes drilled. I used this metal box. Tied grounds together and pigtailed to ground screw.



Used these surface mount boxes. They had knockouts for strain relief clamps. So I believe all I need to do is change to UF when I get the $$$




Also I was thinking of installing a GFI outlet next to the spa panel and power it from that 120v line, but I guess I can just snip those and tap off one side of the tappings for either side shed or coop..



OK zing it to me.....What did I do wrong and what do I need to fix.. I can take it....

 

Don't use silicone caulk, paint won't stick to silicone. Fill the opening with water putty (Fixall) or silconized acrylic latex caulk.

 

That's when you swipe... er, borrow, the Admiral's hair dryer.

Actually, Mike, everything looks pretty good, given that you went ahead with cable - and you already know about replacing the "Romex®."

The one thing I would fix is the orientation of the receptacle the fan is plugged into. Receptacles for straight-blade plugs need to be mounted with the face vertical, because they have no ability to grip the prongs. Vertical or horizontal makes no difference, but any receptacle mounted face-down needs to be a twist-lock receptacle. And what's up with that red multi-tap stuck in there?

 

OK I will turn that tomorrow. The read multi tap is a 70f off 78f on thermocube for the fan.


I think that first box should have been the disconnect too. Ummm.... I was not thinking. I may move that tomorrow also.

 

Yeah, probably a better idea. Just be sure to use a metal handy-box switch cover and to snap the ears off the switch. Better to have that than the one that looks like it's brittle plastic. All of the covers in the shed and coop need to be metal or nylon, IMO.

 

Whats Nylon? I know what metal is of course. I read should be a type of sealed plate?

 

Nylon is just a nicer plate material than the harder phenolic plastic. Nylon can bend in half while the other would snap.

 

Are metal boxes allowed in a coop?

 

Only 40 more posts on this thread and you will have surpassed the Chicken coop thread I don't like metal anything in a chicken house, mainly due to the ammonia put off by the chickens. Tends to rust things prematurely.

 

OK Thanks.

Going to mega mart.

 

The plastic boxes look to me like they are intended for a flush installation although you are using them in open cavities. The plastic plates would not pass an inspection in my area, they aren't U.L. Listed to be installed without the device box being flush in a finished wall. The plastic plates are designed to provide a finished device by contacting the wall surface surrounding the box. True surface boxes have true surface covers and plates such as handy box covers and plates and 1900 box blank covers and raised device covers. I am not saying plastic plates are never used like this, but I am saying using them this way is not 100% Kosher.

 

The only type conduit boxes at the mega mart are metal. Except those big grey ones that are too big for me to mount anywhere.

I would use those metal ones but it seems everyone says no metal.

 

No single-gang grey PVC boxes with hubs? You CAN cut off the external mounting ears and just run a screw through the back. There should also be the nylon (unbreakable) surface mount covers for both switches and duplex receptacles readily available for these boxes.

 

Not everyone. Notice I suggested metal covers.

And I'm going to back up Casual Joe here - those blue boxes are made to be mounted inside a closed wall. I know I said everything looks pretty good, and it does - especially for a job done with inappropriate materials. The workmanship is good.

But before I said that, I said "this is a pipe job" and "surface-rated boxes." It's still "a pipe job" and you still need "surface-rated boxes."

 

Here is the box I would like to use. I could not find them but will go to the other mega mart tomorrow and see if they have them.

Male adapters and conduit.......

Shop CARLON 1-Gang Plastic Handy Electrical Box at Lowes.com

 

That'll work. One reason I like metal boxes, like your handy box, is that I can hit 'em from every side, including the ends. But I understand what others have said about corrosion.

 

This box lets me do that. Its just like the metal box.


But the cover plates that are for wet locations are for the other type boxes. Like this.

Shop CARLON 1-Gang Type FSC Box at Lowes.com


Can I run conduit through the studs or has to be surface mount?

 

It is? The metal box you used has a KO in each end, where you can mount a pipe connector or a cable clamp. You used one.

I looked at the plastic handy box again. I see what may be poke-in inlets for cable in the ends, but I don't see a KO. So that means no pipe connector (male adapter, in PVC lingo). Just an option I like to have,

This: REDDOT 6" Rectangle Plastic Electrical Box Cover is a wet location cover. I'm not sure why it wouldn't mount on either box. Where are you thinking of using this? Is it for the new outside receptacle? If so, that should be in an FS box or a metal WP box anyway.

Absolutely! It's harder to do, but I expect you know that already and are used to doing it with pipe.

 

You can run PVC ENT through studs and it fits and glues into the sockets of the same fitting as schedule 40 PVC conduit. The big box stores probably sell this by the foot. If they don't, electrical supply houses generally do.

Frost - Carlon ENT Non-Metallic Tubing

 

So I have been losing sleep from my first electrical attempt at this coop. I just knew it was wrong when I did it. The perfectionist that I am I wanted everything right, so I ripped it all out today...LOL

I could say again I never would want to be an electrician and would rather cut and thread pipe all day, or stick pins in my eyeballs then run wire.

With that said I am done. I hope there is nothing wrong here in these fabulous pics I posted. The only thing that help me here is I laid some pipe in my day....LOL.


If you see anything wrong here please let me know.


Switch box first box on the circuit. Nut inside and outside the box on male adapter from incoming conduit. Box on right is first receptacle. I put a piece of 2x3 for a backer on this outlet to keep the conduit level and in-line.


Here is the first receptacle. See the piece of wood I used to bring it out and mount it. Makes it all nice and plumb. Ran to second receptacle along the ridge line.



Here is the second receptacle. Mounted in new position that is vertical and not face down as it was before. Did a type of swing joint ell and 45 to get in line with the ridge.



Here is a kind of overall view. I need to add a couple conduit clamps I think.



Finished.

Found the matching cover plates. Tested with my plug in tester and good to go.

Red duplex is a thermocube for the fan. 70F off 78F on. Also have a thermocube for the waterer/heater for the winter, 35F on 45F off that will go in the outlet below that one.

Timer is going to be used to plug in a light socket adapter for a 2 watt candelabra CFL. ( For extended light for winter eggs)










I am done........ Its Miller time

 

Very nice!

 

Nice work!

Beer:thirty!

I knew an old pipe-runner could do this!!

Really? Why the nut on the outside on a male adapter?

 

To keep a gap off the side stud so the cover plate fit.

 

Got it. So long as the box is secure, that sounds like an innovative "fix."

Again, nice work, Mike.

 

Mike, it's easy to see this was installed by a craftsman. It looks much better than the first pass. The only thing I would have mentioned, you already caught and that was about adding a few straps.