add regular 120V 15A (GF) receptacle to 30A RV service

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  #1  
Old 08-27-12, 10:20 AM
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add regular 120V 15A (GF) receptacle to 30A RV service

I have an existing service for an RV or camper. It's 3 prong, 30A, has a breaker, and is in an outdoor enclosure. Please explain how to run 2 ground 120V 15A ground fault receptacles from that box. I am handy and competent, but I just don't know what wires go where. Please be detailed for me - I can follow a schematic if anyone has the means to draw one. Otherwise, just step by step text is OK.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-27-12, 10:42 AM
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You cannot have a general use receptacle protected greater than 20 amps.
 
  #3  
Old 08-27-12, 11:11 AM
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Thanks - so it's the 30A breaker in the RV box that is the problem? It wouldn't protect the added 15A receptacles?
 
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Old 08-27-12, 11:29 AM
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so it's the 30A breaker in the RV box that is the problem? It wouldn't protect the added 15A receptacles?
Yes.
It's 3 prong, 30A, has a breaker, and is in an outdoor enclosure.
Is the enclosure a breaker box? Can you add a breaker to it?
If your not sure post some pictures of it. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/li...-pictures.html
 
  #5  
Old 08-27-12, 11:51 AM
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Thanks, Ray!

It's a specialized, dedicated RV power enclosure. Even the socket is unique to RVs. I was able to wire it myself, but I think I might be over my head at this point. I am covering the whole area with a shed and I will re-mount that enclosure inside the shed. I can either get a little breaker box and get help wiring it, or just spring for an electrician. But I should have known that the breaker protection wouldn't work with regular receptacles. Thanks for setting me straight!
My pic is too large to upload here, so I put it here instead http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...t/100_1963.jpg
 
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Old 08-27-12, 12:23 PM
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If you installed a 120 volt only subpanel you could add a breaker for the 20 amp circuit.
 
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Old 08-27-12, 01:41 PM
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Thanks pcboss

I will do that. I was going to just use pigtail plugs for a few lights in the shed, but now I will just go ahead and put proper lights and receptacles in. I am very handy but I just am not an electrician. I work with a master electrician and I have gotten free advice from him many times. I will just hire him this time, and I will help him all I can, to lower the cost and to learn something. I am glad I asked the question on this forum! If I had rigged something myself, I would probably have been fine, but if something went wrong it could be pretty bad.
 
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Old 08-27-12, 02:23 PM
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It will probably be cheaper to buy a 240v breaker box rather then a 120v breaker box and just use half of the slots* because 120v breaker boxes are a specialty item and therefore usually more expensive.

*Can also be wired to use all the slots but not needed in your case.
 
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Old 08-27-12, 03:27 PM
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Thanks for this - I will look into it prior to making any decisions.
 
  #10  
Old 08-28-12, 10:34 AM
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from the panel cover it looks like there is room for a second breaker in this panel, remove the cover and see if there is busing to the second slot
 
  #11  
Old 08-28-12, 11:06 AM
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Breather, looking at the diagram I think you are right but I can't see a knock out in the cover

 
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Old 08-28-12, 01:28 PM
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if there is busing for a breaker in the panel would it be acceptable to notch out the breaker slot?

it also could be scored on the backside
 
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Old 09-02-12, 06:42 AM
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I appreciate the help and interest

Later today, I will look at the enclosure again and see how much room is in there. By the way, I wasn't getting notifications about my thread (I fixed that) so I didn't know it was still active. Didn't mean to ignore anyone!
 
  #14  
Old 09-02-12, 09:59 AM
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I did see a spot for another breaker! Sometimes I am as dumb as a box of rocks. I would have to find a Connecticut breaker and cut out the panel face to accept it. I have a picture here http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/p...t/100_1965.jpg
 
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Old 09-02-12, 10:00 AM
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The name plate says it is also listed for GE breakers
 

Last edited by ray2047; 09-02-12 at 10:18 AM. Reason: Correct breaker typo.
  #16  
Old 09-02-12, 10:21 AM
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Here's the label. GE breakers are easy to find.
 
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Old 09-02-12, 01:37 PM
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You guys are just great - thank you again for helping me out, and fast too! I was a little bit sad though, when nobody disputed me saying I was as dumb as a box of rocks....
 
  #18  
Old 09-02-12, 01:46 PM
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Maybe it just me but the wire feeding this panel looks smaller ( 12)than the wire going from the neutral bar to the outlet which looks like 10. Please check this.
 
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Old 09-02-12, 02:02 PM
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I was a little bit sad though, when nobody disputed me saying I was as dumb as a box of rocks....
Why? You don't think you're alone in that, do you?
 
  #20  
Old 09-02-12, 04:17 PM
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The wires going into the box are definitely 10 ga. The insulation thickness is different, so the wires look like different sizes.
 
  #21  
Old 09-03-12, 03:22 PM
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For you great helpers who are still following my progress; I got a GE 20A GF breaker (thanks braether3 and ray2047 - because Connecticut breakers seem to be scarce here) , and I cut out the faceplate to accept it. I mounted a weatherproof box on top of the RV power enclosure with a duplex receptacle inside. But now I have to wait to 1) move a shed, 2) build a retaining wall, 3) bring in fill dirt and gravel, and 4) have the metal carport installed. It's hard and expensive having fun in an RV!
 
  #22  
Old 09-03-12, 05:27 PM
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Glad you got it. Thanks for letting us know.
 
  #23  
Old 09-03-12, 05:37 PM
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Yes! I can't thank you enough. I have saved $$ to use on other phases of my project.
 
  #24  
Old 10-16-12, 04:22 PM
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Just updating - the project (including installing a metal RV carport) passed inspection today. It sure took a lot of time to coordinate everything. I wanted to thank you all again for the great help!
 
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Old 10-16-12, 04:41 PM
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Glad you got it done!
 
  #26  
Old 10-16-12, 04:58 PM
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Glad everything passed, and thank you for the update.
 
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