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Newbie here: Installing IP camera outside, don't know hw to fix power supply

Newbie here: Installing IP camera outside, don't know hw to fix power supply

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  #1  
Old 08-30-12, 05:25 PM
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Exclamation Newbie here: Installing IP camera outside, don't know hw to fix power supply

Hey all,
I'm kinda knowledgeable in the internet category but have no clue when it comes to connecting electrical utilities in the absence of available electric outlets. I'm currently installing 4 IP surveillance cameras at the perimeters of my home (my neighbours got robbed, the intruders apparently just kicked opened the door and took everything remotely valuable) but has just realized that I have no way of connecting the cameras to power supplies. I've included a picture of the camera in attachments. It uses a 5v power supply and needs to be basically connected into building and plugged into a outlet. The problem is the cameras are to be directly mounted into the walls at the exterior of the building and I have no clue how I should acomplis this task. Should I just make a hole, connect the supply into the house and plug it into an outlet or is there some less damaging way of connecting? Please be patient with me as I have no experience in more advanced handyman tasks . I have access to a wide range of tools so that shouldn't be a problem. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 
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  #2  
Old 08-30-12, 05:34 PM
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Is the power connector on the power brick by any chance a USB connector? What do the instructions say. Is it intended for outdoor mounting. The plug at the bottom of the picture is cut off. Can you post a picture with that plug.
 
  #3  
Old 08-30-12, 05:58 PM
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Ahhh sorry about that I'll take another right away. The plug at the bottom is for ethernet cords in case you don't want to use the wireless function. The camera did not come with instructions (I bought it from a wholesaler) on how to mount outside, only a software installation manual. I'm a 100% sure it is intended outdoor mounting. The top is entirely sealed and waterproof and the entire piece is constructed to withstand the cold Canadian winter =(
 
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Old 08-30-12, 06:11 PM
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Bottom line is you're going to have to run SOME kind of wiring. Cameras like that are usually hardwired for reliability and set up for PoE (Power Over Ethernet), which sends the power over the same cable as the data. You would need a power injector to take advantage of it. Your other option is to run the power adapter through the wall, using appropriate extensions if needed. It's ugly no matter how you do it unfortunately.

Is there any model number/nameplate on the unit? Are you sure it's wireless too? That's a little rare to find in an outdoor unit like you have.
 
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Old 08-30-12, 06:36 PM
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I was afraid of this . Because I've never done this before do you have any advice or tips on how I should run it through the wall?

The model is NIP-31 and it is from a company based in Shenzhen and yes, I'm sure it's wireless. The manual is conveniently in english so I can decipher that much (just with really, really bad grammer though). Oh and configuring is a bit of a pain because you need router admin access to allow it to be viewed online by other computers.
 
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Old 08-30-12, 07:01 PM
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The reason I ask if the power brick connector is USB is because if it is you can run a USB extension cord to hook up power to the power brick inside the house otherwise we are either going to have to splice the power brick cable or use outside receptacles. Since the power brick might not fit inside an in use cover the receptacle would have to be in a water proof enclosure large enough for the power brick. I think the use of outside receptacles is too complicated and I am not recommending it, just stating alternatives.
 
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Old 08-30-12, 08:06 PM
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I'm currently installing 4 IP surveillance cameras at the perimeters of my home... but has just realized that I have no way of connecting the cameras to power supplies.
How high are you planning to mount your cameras? Often, surveillance cameras are mounted to ceilings and other high, horizontal surfaces, rather than to vertical walls.

If you could mount your cameras to the underside of your roof soffits, they would be more protected from the weather and therefore less likely to have their pictures obscured by rain or snow contacting them. They would also be above the easy reach of someone who might wish to disable or damage them. Finally, you could route their wires into your attic and make all of your feeds and connections there - no wall penetration at all.
 
  #8  
Old 08-31-12, 04:45 AM
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The cameras don't seem to have heaters in them, and at only 5 watts the power consumption spec proves it. The operating temperature spec says 0C (32F), so when those cold Canadian winters hit your screens may go dark. At the very least you'll lose the ability to PTZ.

Heaters are available as options for some cameras, and you may be able to rig a different manufacturer's heater to fit those. However, that means you'll need to use the power supplies even if the cameras were able to be powered over ethernet (PoE).
 
  #9  
Old 09-01-12, 05:33 PM
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I have to mount these vertically unto the wall because this specific model takes after conventional streetlamps. Mounting it directly to the roof would severly limit the vision. The present option seems to me to be to punch a hole through the wall and plugging the power supply into a outlet inside the house or to create a power outlet high outside the house and install the camera unto that. I have no idea how to do either. =/
 
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Old 09-01-12, 05:36 PM
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Yea, im planning to mount them to the underside of my roof soffits. Thanks for the attic idea, i'll go and look into that right away. The problem with my cameras is that I have to directly attack the wide area of the camera (where all the cords are sticking out) to the wall because this model takes after a vertical streetlamp.
 
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Old 09-01-12, 07:14 PM
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Not sure of the size but from the looks of it you could mount it to a double gang blank cover plate then mount that to a double gang surface mount weather proof box. A conduit could extend from the box to the soffit. All of the wires shown would go into the box. No wires outside. All connections either in the box or attic. You'd want to use a PVC box and cover because they are going to have to be drilled out to do this. Probably a 1-12" inch hole centered in the cover and at least a 1" diameter conduit into the soffit.
 
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Old 09-01-12, 07:31 PM
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The problem with my cameras is that I have to directly attack the wide area of the camera (where all the cords are sticking out) to the wall because this model takes after a vertical streetlamp.
I looked again and I see that. It also looks like the camera's base has three mounting holes in it, and is not made for mounting to a standard electrical box. Hmmmm...

Can you swap these cameras for ones made to attach to horizontal overhead surface? Does the company offer that option? Do they offer a different mounting arm that you could swap out on the cameras you have now?

One other thought. Could you build a mounting block for each camera, using 1" PVC trim boards, that would have a solid front with a couple of U-shaped layers behind that, and mount it to the wall immediately under - touching - the soffit? Then you could drill through the front into the channel in the Us and run the wires through that and up through another hole drilled up through the soffit.

Edit to add: Ray's idea sounds easier than mine, and at least as effective.
 

Last edited by Nashkat1; 09-01-12 at 07:34 PM. Reason: add a thought
  #13  
Old 09-02-12, 07:12 AM
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One more time: The cameras' lower operating temperature range is 0 Celsius/32 Fahrenheit. These are not the right cameras to use outdoors in Canada.
 
  #14  
Old 09-02-12, 09:08 AM
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The only problem with using weatherproof box would be if the box is metal the Wi-Fi probably isn't going to work well
 
  #15  
Old 09-02-12, 10:31 AM
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The only problem with using weatherproof box would be if the box is metal the Wi-Fi probably isn't going to work well
But I specifically said a PVC box and cover. While I was concerned with ease of adding large holes the PVC should also not interfere with the Wi-Fi.

Of course this may be moot since he really needs to use different cameras due to temperature concerns.
 
  #16  
Old 09-02-12, 11:14 AM
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Sorry ray I missed that
 
  #17  
Old 09-02-12, 12:36 PM
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I might be missing something here but, I have a cameras around my house also supplied by 5v. Instead of eithernet, mine uses coax. However 5 volts is supplied by a dual cable, coax and 5v extension cable. Therefore, my power supply plugs into a regular outlet in the house and supplies the 5 v to the camera thru the extension cable, up an interior wall to the attic and to the penetration hole in the outside wall. The only thing in the attic is low voltage (5v). I think I can see the plug in your photo that appears to unplug from the power supply??? What is the plug covered by the red cap, audio or??
 
  #18  
Old 09-03-12, 09:11 AM
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I'll first respond to your specific questions.

There appears to be a cut-out on the side of where the camera mounts and as suggested you could route the cable through the soffit into the attic.
You could then install a quad 120 volt receptacle then power the four power supplies.

Off topic but now for what you didn't ask about.

I am not a camera expert but went through selecting a budget camera for pointing to bird nests and broadcasting a live camera feed.
I first tried a D-Link wireless camera which has similar specs to the ones you bought.
I didn't need an outdoor rated camera because I have unheated housings and using in the spring/summer only.
This camera did not work well in that the image quality was very poor, likely because of the sensor size and resolution and if the wireless connection was temporarily lost it would not automatically reconnect which made the whole set up useless.
I have an acquaintance who has installed a few wireless cameras for his security customers but they cost almost double what you paid for all four of yours which was not anywhere in my league for what I am doing.

What I find to be a very good bargain for cost versus quality is wired closed circuit cameras.
I have a video card with one analog input and bought a Swann camera which is readily available in Canada and moderately priced.
The camera is rated to -20 deg C or about -2 degF.
It gets colder here but when it does there is only a slight degradation in image quality.

Like I said, not what you asked but I too would question if they would work in our weather.
A way to test them would be to put one in a well sealed plastic bag with the wires sticking out.
Remove the bag from the freezer and without removing the bag, hook up the camera and see how it works.
 
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