Wiring a Junction Box in the Attic
#1
09-13-12, 02:47 PM
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 26
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Wiring a Junction Box in the Attic
I've mounted a projector on the ceiling for the theater room, and in the spirit of cleanliness, I'd like to run the power cable into the ceiling(along with the already ran HDMI cable) and plug the projector in somewhere in the attic in a recepticle. Problem is that there are none within reasonable distance up there, so I was thinking of installing my own.
Is it as easy as cutting power to an outlet(the one on the wall by the projector), taking the wiring in the attic TO that outlet and cutting it, then using the twist caps and put them back together, only adding another 12ga wire running into a new junction box?
Basically just cutting in the middle of the I, and splicing a piece right in to make a T? It can't be that simple, is it? (please tell me it is)
Is it as easy as cutting power to an outlet(the one on the wall by the projector), taking the wiring in the attic TO that outlet and cutting it, then using the twist caps and put them back together, only adding another 12ga wire running into a new junction box?
Basically just cutting in the middle of the I, and splicing a piece right in to make a T? It can't be that simple, is it? (please tell me it is)
Sponsored Links
#2
09-13-12, 02:51 PM
Group Moderator
For the most part, home electrical work is pretty straight forward but mistakes can cause deadly fires so reading up on the subject first is a good idea. Most recommended reading around here is Wiring Simplified, which is available online and often at the big box stores.
#3
09-13-12, 02:57 PM
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 26
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I have a basic grasp on fundamentals and whatnot. Common sense also goes a long way when doing a project. My question was more specifically directed at whether that is the "proper method" to installing a junction box: just cut an existing wire, and splice another into it and run that new one to a new box.
#4
09-13-12, 03:23 PM
The splices must be made in a permanently accessible junction box. The cable you cut if originally properly installed will be too short for that because there will be little or no slack.You will need two junction boxes. Each positioned so you can get 6-8" of the cut cable in the box. Then you connect the two boxes with a short length of cable.
All grounds are connected together and if the box it metal pigtailed to the box. proper cable clamps (AKA cable connectors) need to be used at each box.
All grounds are connected together and if the box it metal pigtailed to the box. proper cable clamps (AKA cable connectors) need to be used at each box.
#5
09-13-12, 04:36 PM
I've mounted a projector on the ceiling for the theater room, and in the spirit of cleanliness, I'd like to run the power cable into the ceiling(along with the already ran HDMI cable) and plug the projector in somewhere in the attic in a recepticle.
#7
09-13-12, 06:48 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 71
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
What is the issue with flex cords behind drywall, other that simply being against code?
#8
09-13-12, 07:16 PM
What is the issue with flex cords behind drywall, other that simply being against code?
Example: Your house burns down. The insurance company sees non code compliant wiring. Even if that wiring is not really the cause it may be enough for the insurance company to reject your claim using it to establish a pattern of non code compliance.
#9
09-13-12, 07:25 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 71
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
That I understand, I was just wondering what the reasoning behind that paticular code was. I fully understand complying with code, I just have the 'why?' questions to further my understanding.
Sorry to hijack!
Sorry to hijack!
#10
09-13-12, 08:53 PM
What is the issue with flex cords behind drywall, other that simply being against code?
In this case, though, we can posit a couple of reasons:
- The flex cord can, and will, be abraded by the drywall, plaster, concrete, CMU, wood, etc.
- The means of disconnect for any cord-and-plug connected load must be visible from the device, and accessible. IOW, you must be able to unplug the projector (or whatever) when you see a problem with it, or just want to work on it, without having to leave the room - let alone climb up into the attic.
#12
09-13-12, 09:21 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 71
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Thank you! That basically answers my questions. 
Sounds about like the regs in my field...
Sounds about like the regs in my field...
#13
09-13-12, 11:10 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: KS
Posts: 1,896
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
The best thing will be to install this new receptacle in an 'old work' box in the ceiling right behind the projector. This is a very common (and code compliant) way of doing it, so no home theater aficionado will fault you for it. 
Assuming your projector is like most and it has the standard "computer-style" detachable cord (which technically would satisfy the 'means of disconnect' Nash, but of course it doesn't change that flex can't go through a wall), you can get a 1 foot replacement for about $5 that will prevent you from having to coil up excess.
As for the HDMI cable, you won't want that passing through the drywall, for several reasons already mentioned. There are HDMI "pass through" plates, which allow you to safely pass the cord through without having an ugly hole or allowing air leakage or a way in for insects.
Assuming your projector is like most and it has the standard "computer-style" detachable cord (which technically would satisfy the 'means of disconnect' Nash, but of course it doesn't change that flex can't go through a wall), you can get a 1 foot replacement for about $5 that will prevent you from having to coil up excess.
As for the HDMI cable, you won't want that passing through the drywall, for several reasons already mentioned. There are HDMI "pass through" plates, which allow you to safely pass the cord through without having an ugly hole or allowing air leakage or a way in for insects.
#14
09-14-12, 05:11 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cressona, Pa, USA
Posts: 2,546
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Flexible cords are not rated against fire, so they cannot be part of building wiring. You also must use an in-wall rated HDMI cable, as well as all of the other cables you plan on using in the wall, such as speaker and network cabling.
#15
09-14-12, 11:29 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: KS
Posts: 1,896
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
You'd have to really piss off an inspector in order to get him to red-tag speaker or video cables. As long as it is going from one point in a room to another, and isn't going between rooms or penetrating levels, or going through an air handling space, there's no danger. Basically everything carries at least VW-1 flame retardance certification so the jacketing won't burn or support a fire.
