Rv Outlet

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  #1  
Old 09-27-12, 11:00 AM
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Rv Outlet

Howdy, searched rv elect and could not find similar post. I need to run 120 vac 145 feet to an RV pad. Want a 30 amp rv outlet and 20 amp duplex outlet (general use and night light). on line calculators determine 3 ga copper. I just happen to have 3 runs of 1 ga copper approx 160 feet long.
Can I use 1 ga, heard electricians say inspectors don't like wire larger than needed. The 50 amp cb is rated 6 ga max wire size. I'll be coming off of a 100 amp sub panel with 1-40 amp cb (air cond) and 20 amp cb for outlet.
Also, is aluminum SE a better choice?
The wire will be in pvc conduit underground. I am familiar with elect, just don't want it to be messy.
Thanks
 
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Old 09-27-12, 11:15 AM
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I don't know what calculator you are using but they seem as wildly off base as the last post that contained figures from an on line calculator.

Since you need two separate services your best choice would be a 240v subpanel where you want the 120v amp receptacle and run 4 #8 off a 30 amp 2-pole breaker to supply the subpanel. Depending on the loads in the RV you may be able to use #10 to the subpanel without significant voltage drop but #8 should take care of it even if the demand by the RV is close to 25 amps. You would then run #10 to the RV plug from the subpanel.
 
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Old 09-28-12, 05:34 AM
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Ray, with an AC/heater, electric stove, oven, fridge, and water heater, an RV can easily pull every bit of 30 amps @ 120 vac. OP may want to fatten that wire.

Question, though, because I'm no expert in electrical: If he uses a 240v sub panel and has the 30a RV on one leg and a 15a recep on the other (but rarely pulling the full 15), won't the neutral be seriously unbalanced? Does that even matter?
 
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Old 09-28-12, 07:00 AM
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I did something similar to this when my wife and I were living in our RV while building our house by ourselves. Since the hookup was intended to be temporary, I just ran 10/2 UF on the ground from the house panel out to the RV panel that was on a nearby tree. Never had a problem in the 2-1/2 years we took on the house. Just FYI, RVs don't have electric stoves or electric ovens (none I've ever seen anyway), and the fridge and water heater can usually be run on propane. Except for when the air conditioner's running, an RV's current draw really isn't that much.
 
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Old 09-28-12, 08:35 AM
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Rick asked:
If he uses a 240v sub panel and has the 30a RV on one leg and a 15a recep on the other (but rarely pulling the full 15), won't the neutral be seriously unbalanced? Does that even matter?
No because return current on the neutral is only the difference between the current flowing on each hot leg. Even if current flow on one hot leg is 30 amps and current flow on the other hot leg is 0a it is only 30a on the neutral. (30-0=30). The wire is sized to carry 30a.

The #8 wire I suggested to use to the subpanel would give approximately a five volt voltage drop at 25 amps actual load. The #10 I suggested between the new subpanel and RV receptacle is standard size used for 30 amps under one hundred feet.If the RV draws more then 80% of the plugs full capacity (24 amps) full time then the plug is undersized.
 
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Old 09-29-12, 05:45 AM
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Thanks Ray.

Going by boat, not RV, but it's the same connections ... everything is electric on the boats.
 
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