A plug on a junction box
#1
A plug on a junction box
I'm wiring a kitchen and had it inspected yesterday.
All fine but one problem
When I was gutting the kitchen, I cut a 14-3 with my sawszall.
I put in a junction box and spliced a new wire. I told the inspector I would just put a blank cover on it. He said thats OK but I should make it a plug.
Here's the deal with this circuit. The 14/3 runs to a box with 2 switches. One for a light and one for a fan.
I can't seem to get power to the plug in the junction box no matter what combination of wires I use. Originally I put the plug (and another) on the black and white. Thought the black would be hot coming in?
I don't think it is possible to make this plug work. Strangely I can see 110 on my volt meter but it seems to be only 1/2 power when I run a tool off it.
Off course now I hung the drywall but havent' mudded yet so I can take it off and rewire. Iwould wire the other plug to another source and put a blank plate on the junction.
Any thoughts?
All fine but one problem
When I was gutting the kitchen, I cut a 14-3 with my sawszall.
I put in a junction box and spliced a new wire. I told the inspector I would just put a blank cover on it. He said thats OK but I should make it a plug.
Here's the deal with this circuit. The 14/3 runs to a box with 2 switches. One for a light and one for a fan.
I can't seem to get power to the plug in the junction box no matter what combination of wires I use. Originally I put the plug (and another) on the black and white. Thought the black would be hot coming in?
I don't think it is possible to make this plug work. Strangely I can see 110 on my volt meter but it seems to be only 1/2 power when I run a tool off it.
Off course now I hung the drywall but havent' mudded yet so I can take it off and rewire. Iwould wire the other plug to another source and put a blank plate on the junction.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by mjd2k; 10-17-12 at 01:53 AM.
#2
What you cut was more than likely a switch loop, which has no neutral. Remove the receptacle and bind the wires as they were originally with wire nuts or Marettes. In the US you can't have a 15 amp receptacle in the kitchen, anyway, and the inspector should have known that. Since it is a switch loop, the best you can do is put a blank cover on it and leave it exposed or run a new switch loop to your light/fans. Kitchen countertop (small appliance) receptacles require two separate circuits and GFCI protection, and they must be 20 amp circuits.
Mod Note: the code requirements stated apply under the NEC. The OP is in Canada where some rules might be different.
Mod Note: the code requirements stated apply under the NEC. The OP is in Canada where some rules might be different.
Last edited by pcboss; 10-17-12 at 05:53 AM. Reason: added note
#3
Yes it is likely a switch loop. And something I learned from the inspector (other than how to waste an hour) is that once the code has been met in regards to 20 amp runs with TR/Tslot receptacles, you can add more 15 amp circuits. Our code does not state that you cannot have 15 amp circuits, only that you need to have met the minimum.
When he suggested I add the plugs, I asked how I could do that since that circuit was 15 amp. He said I had already met the code with the other plugs so I could add 15 amp now. Never knew that.
We need GFI ciircuits only within 5 feet of the sink.
If our code works that way, I almost think your's does also?
When he suggested I add the plugs, I asked how I could do that since that circuit was 15 amp. He said I had already met the code with the other plugs so I could add 15 amp now. Never knew that.
We need GFI ciircuits only within 5 feet of the sink.
If our code works that way, I almost think your's does also?
#4
Im headed back to the house today and will pull off the switch. It was too late to do that last night.
Now I think the white is the hot and the red and black are the hots going back to the light or the fan.
I wonder if the reason the tool runs 1/2 power is because the plug is in series rather than parallel?
In the end I will likely just run a new source because I can't have my helper standing there while I play with this. Kinda PO'd at the inspector right now but he said its fine if I call him so I will do that also.
Now I think the white is the hot and the red and black are the hots going back to the light or the fan.
I wonder if the reason the tool runs 1/2 power is because the plug is in series rather than parallel?
In the end I will likely just run a new source because I can't have my helper standing there while I play with this. Kinda PO'd at the inspector right now but he said its fine if I call him so I will do that also.
#5
In the US all the receptacles that serve the countertops need to be on a 20 amp circuit and GFI protected.
#6
OK, called the inspector. Yes the white is hot and the red/black are switch legs. He said I should go to HOme Depot and buy a bigger box, then use a drywall ring on the front of the box to make it a standard size outlet and then run a new source into the box so the plugs will work. This is so I don't have a blank outlet on the counter. Much more work but I need to finish it off now. Arggggggg
#8
Yes. Too much work. Especially since I already had it all done.
I went to HD and they do sell all the stuff but then I need to repair the drywall as the hole moves and its another $15 for parts. The only thing is I ran another plug in a different spot off the junction box per the inspectors suggestion so I would need to remove it and repair that drywall as well.
Oh well I'll run a new source into the second plug. Won't hurt just such a hassle. Adds another couple hours.
I went to HD and they do sell all the stuff but then I need to repair the drywall as the hole moves and its another $15 for parts. The only thing is I ran another plug in a different spot off the junction box per the inspectors suggestion so I would need to remove it and repair that drywall as well.
Oh well I'll run a new source into the second plug. Won't hurt just such a hassle. Adds another couple hours.