Plug Retention Spec Testing
#1
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Plug Retention Spec Testing
Recently did some remodeling in the basement and the new receptacles were Leviton Renu . These are the ones that have a *snap cover* the cover over the receptacle.
When it goes through SPEC testing, I'm going to assume they are doing retention with the *plate* ontop with a ~plug~ and not just 2 leads probed in to test retention. Anyhow know how manuf. are doing industry standard practice testing.
This was a aesthetic change....
Previous receptacles. were comm. spec grade receptacles.
These receptacles don't hold jack sh1t....
I can have a laptop power supply on it - and just a nudge the brick part of it a little and the sheer force of this, may pull out the plug.
I plan to swap them back out to comm. spec.
When it goes through SPEC testing, I'm going to assume they are doing retention with the *plate* ontop with a ~plug~ and not just 2 leads probed in to test retention. Anyhow know how manuf. are doing industry standard practice testing.
This was a aesthetic change....
Previous receptacles. were comm. spec grade receptacles.
These receptacles don't hold jack sh1t....
I can have a laptop power supply on it - and just a nudge the brick part of it a little and the sheer force of this, may pull out the plug.
I plan to swap them back out to comm. spec.
#2
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In one of my electrical books, they discuss electrical outlets and what makes the better ones better. It's all about the swipes. A cheap receptacle is going to be single swipe. That means there is one of those brass spring contacts to hold the plug in. Then there is double sipe wich has the contact on both sides of the blade and then triple swipe which adds a contact to the op edge of the blade. The more swipes, the better the retention.
#3
This is what is used to check receptacle tension:
Click image:

Image courtesy of amazondotcom
We use one of these at work that is Leviton labelled but often just replace the receptacle if plugs won't stay put.
Normally bottom grade builder types work like yours do.
If you grab the more costly ones in a building center they will perform ok.
Hospital grade are the best but take up a fair bit of real estate in a jctn box.
Click image:

Image courtesy of amazondotcom
We use one of these at work that is Leviton labelled but often just replace the receptacle if plugs won't stay put.
Normally bottom grade builder types work like yours do.
If you grab the more costly ones in a building center they will perform ok.
Hospital grade are the best but take up a fair bit of real estate in a jctn box.
#4
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Normally bottom grade builder types work like yours do.
If you grab the more costly ones in a building center they will perform ok.
Hospital grade are the best but take up a fair bit of real estate in a jctn box
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...#ixzz2Dud6PER0
If you grab the more costly ones in a building center they will perform ok.
Hospital grade are the best but take up a fair bit of real estate in a jctn box
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...#ixzz2Dud6PER0
No way to MOD these outlets.
When we redid the kitchen/dining, the Lutrons we selected were similar. Had a pretty faceplate with a 89 cents receptacle. So I paid $20+ to get a matte color specific faceplate and ended up replacing the outlets with Hospital Grade Outlets *the only ones the shop had in stock that fit the faceplates*.
Sure the Normal ~consumer~ will be more advised on better outlets.
Or at least I hope.
#5
I have been leery ever since I encountered obviously contractor grade that had plastic yokes and no screws, just back stabs. I couldn't help wondering if a company cared that little about the quality of their product how much better were their more expensive products. (Name of nationally known manufacture intentionally not specified.)