new service question


Old 12-12-12, 10:23 PM
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new service question

I think I'm going to have to have new electrical service. I'm going to run something which will sometimes need current loads as follows (one or the other):

* 110vac 29amps

* 220vac 12amps

Either way, that's more than my current panel can provide. I currently have a 200amp panel. But, it runs:

a water well
b cook stove
c air conditioner/heater
d lighting
e water heater

Basically, I'm trying to figure out which is least expensive---cost wise:

Use 220vac or 110vac. There would be 100' of wire. The big problem is getting service in. We have 300' of underground line to our panel.

Any thoughts on this will be welcome.
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Old 12-12-12, 10:33 PM
PJmax's Avatar
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New service.....nah.

a water well ---- 15 amps @ 240v
b cook stove ---- 45 amps @ 240v
c air conditioner/heater --- 35 amps @ 240v
d lighting/misc ---- 20 amps @ 120v
e water heater --- 30 amps @ 240v
f new load ---- 12 amps @ 240v

Even with your new load you have plenty of spare capability.

Run your new load at 240 volts. Less voltage drop on 100' of wire. Balances load on panel better too.
Old 12-12-12, 11:36 PM
Join Date: Dec 2012
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PJmax's sounds about right. Why do you think you are near your services maximum load. You could remove a high usage appliance, but I don't think you need to.

I assume your Heater is either Natural Gas or LP. If that is correct you might consider upgrading your electric water heater to a Gas Tankless (sometimes call Water On-Demand) Unit. That will free up buy PJmax's estimate 30 amps @ 240v. I have had my Rinnai (voted best tankless water heater) for 10 years now and have loved every second. My family can't remember what it is to run out of hot water, or to pay to heat water you will never use. In my first month alone my gas bill was 20% less, and that has continued to today. I can take a hot shower for 10 days if I wanted to, or we can go away for 12 months and we will never pay for hot water we don't use. I know I am sounding like an advertisement, but your water heater uses a lot of power and heating water by electricity is less efficient then heating by Gas. Besides this is one of those beautiful upgrades that will have you asking; "Why didn't I do this sooner?" But Gas does add new venting concerns. I started out with a propane unit. It would run two weeks on a 20lb propane tank, and always run out when my wife was all soaped up in the shower. Hehe.

Anyway looking at that 100' run I think it needs to be 10/3 G UF-B rated for outdoor usage at 30 amps and 240v. In my area HD has it for $2.00 a foot.
Old 12-13-12, 03:13 AM
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You could remove a high usage appliance
Why do without something you use everyday?

I assume your Heater is either Natural Gas or LP
You can't assume that since the Air conditioner/Heat are electric...stove is electric...water heater is electric.....I'd say there is no gas service available.
In addition we don't know how large the service panel nor feed is. We'll really need to know that in order to tell.
Old 12-13-12, 04:42 AM
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Either way the unit will cost the same amount to operate regardless of voltage.

If you are concerned about your service size you can do a demand load calculation to see if it is large enough including the new loads.
Old 12-13-12, 04:46 AM
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And even assuming availability of gas a gas on demand water heater can be very expensive to install and does not meet everyone's needs.
Old 12-13-12, 07:05 AM
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Location: xxx
Posts: 310

Well---refreshing to hear!!! I didn't do this, and your info is great. That will be a greatly reduced cost: simply run a 220vac line for the 100' or so.

Yes--no gas available.

I'll get an electrician to come out and do a demand service analysis
Old 12-13-12, 08:07 AM
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No, you will need to run a 240 volt line. Residential voltages are 120/240.

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