Snap disc thermal switch alternative.

OK, not quite lighting question, yet...

We have Oreshnitsa pastry baker

Home

which, in its turn, is 2 sets of heating elements, a light diode, and a snap disc thermal switch, just like this:

Amazon.com: Thermostat Switch - Circuit On At 185°F and Off At 200°F - Large Flange: Home Improvement

That keeps blowing on us. Original one was 170/0 F rated; guy replaced it with 150/0 from a microwave, and it blew in about ten minutes of work.
Wife is addicted to that thing and they are pricy to keep buying.
Anyone has good suggestion for reliable alternative to that switch? When she starts baking, that thing goes for couple hrs, she bakes them in hundreds.
Space is fairly limited inside. Original switch is 1/2'' x 7/8'' attachment "ears" x 5/8'' or so height.

 

What you are showing in the link is a cycling thermostat. It turns the elements on and off based on temperature.

Now you are talking about a high temperature safety device.

Which exactly are you looking for ?

 

I only need something that will work the same, but is more reliable. Off at 170F-180F. I don't care if it's exactly same design. As far as I can connect 2 wires to it. It's super basic inside, like 2 irons connected with that switch.

 

Ok.....so you need a cycling thermostat.

I've been searching my parts catalogs and that unit from amazon is a good deal.
I'm still looking for other replacements but am not to confident there is one.

 

Since it is not a lighting question, I will move it to the electrical section for better exposure.

So the switches are failing? Seams odd as they are just a thermal switch. You should replace the switch with the same temp rating as the original. There are tons in Grainger's site, search Snap-Disc Controls. Most are less than $6. Here is one: GRAINGER APPROVED VENDOR Set Limit, Auto Reset, Opens 170 - Fan and Limit Controls - 6UEA2|6UEA2 - Grainger Industrial Supply

 

yes, they are blowing. Not sure why, I am not that electrical. It's very simple device indeed - basically, two heating elements and that switch. That's it.

 

But let me ask again - is there a known more reliable alternative?
As in - different design that works and is known to be very reliable.

 

Not questioning you here but just want to cover all the bases. How did you determine that they failed? Did you check them with a meter?

These switches tend to be very reliable, with almost no parts to fail. I still like to know why/how they are failing.

 

Ahhhh... actually, thing quits working. As it's 2 part, sorry, 3 part device. Light, switch, and heating elements. It quit back in November, guy replaced 170 switch with 150 - it came back to life. Just short life.
There's nothing else there, and heating elements are like ones in iron - solid. And 4 wires. No fuses, nothing.
That's why I am questioning particular switch. If they keep blowing, I am not buying them in dozens.
Also, they dropped price on that thing by 20 bucks. Usually, it's either not selling at all, or there's too much hassle with it. I asked for replacement, as we were withing Amazon warranty, and owner told me to "ship it back so that their technician will repair it". I bet they know well what is wrong with it. First time ever heard something like this for online purchases.

 

Sometimes there can be some hidden things causing the issue. It might be possible that the switch that was installed in the first place was not right for the application, or was just a poor design.

Take your meter and set it to Ohms. With the switch disconnected, put the test probes on each terminal. You should get no continuity.

I would also not suggest buying them by the dozens. They should not fail. They turn off on rise so they should never overheat by design.

Only other thought is the lights. The one I posted lists the "pilot duty contacts" rating to be 480 VA.

 

It's a lot of load being switched in a little package. They don't overheat......the contacts just become arced from the constant cycling and they no longer make contact.

They are a very reliable item they just weren't designed for continuous cycling duty.

 

So you'er thinking along the line of the wrong part for the application?

 

The quick answer.......yes.

 

OK, makes sense. So what can I use instead, oh wise ones? You guys tossed a bone at me.

 

If you notice......most thermostats used in small appliances like that are the open contact type.
(I'm still looking)


Adjustable Bimetallic Thermostat Control Switch New American Thermostat Corp | eBay

 

how about using 2 switches, one for each heater, or a 15 amp 125v coil relay that you can use the switch as to energize the relay and then the iron will be powered by the relay

 

Just curious: Have you thought about buying a replacement appliance directly from Oreshnitsa, and spending an extra $9.99 for the Optional 2 Years Limited Warranty they offer? A few quick returns might get you something more reliable.

Or your money back to buy a replacement from a company that makes a dependable product.

 

The manufacturer's warranty is free. Just buy 2 or 3 machines and cycle them back for repairs as needed. You should always have at least one at home and ready to go.

 

Joe......you are too much

 

Duh-oh! Of course it is. I like your idea better, Joe.

 

I have only been half reading this but it seems to me is a basic design fault because the thermostat doesn't have a 5° or 6° differential between off and on so the switch is constantly opening and closing instead of going to the high setting, shutting off, and staying off till the low setting is reached.

 

OK, I'm back
Replaced 2 of those thermostats by now. Matter of fact, popped ones that "quit" working open, and there is nothing wrong with them. Contacts are clean, and it's super simple bimetallic plate that changes shape breaking contact.

I put 3rd one in just now (they are $4 surplus) and of course it started working, reached hot temperature and shut off. I am cooling it down next, to see what happens.
I think, ray2047 actually has it right. It likely pops open, shuts down, and then waits. But thing is, it does not work after it shuts down after 20 or so minutes of work. As in - next day. You can put another therm disc in - it will work for 20 minutes, and kills itself. I tried it day after before.
Yes, thank you for great idea. Should it have been available at local Walmart, I'd have had 2 of those and run them as warranty replacements. Shipping costs will eat hundreds to do it with that company though. Also, they do not want to exchange them, they want to repair them. As of today, it's what we paid for it, plus $32 in several discs ordered.
I told her to use simple cooktop equivalent. Of course, she does not want to.

 

How about I rig this into it:

Amazon.com: Amico AC 220V 16A 50-300C Dial Rotary Knob Thermostat Temperature Control Switch for Electric Oven: Home Improvement

 

A little clumsy but will work for you.

 

Better than shipping that thing back and for. I can use biz account for this only once, the rest will fall on my hands. I can set a sealed box with switch somewhere on the side, run wires to it. I like that it gives range in temp choice.

 

Anyone - just noticed that that knob thermostat says 250V on it. Will it work on 127? Or it's just max voltage rating?

Amazon.com: Amico AC 220V 16A 50-300C Dial Rotary Knob Thermostat Temperature Control Switch for Electric Oven: Home Improvement

 

Voltage rating isn't important so long as there are no electronics and at that price I'd guess there isn't. So long as voltage rating equals or exceeds yours your good to go. I suspect that may even work better than original because it probably has a difference between when it cuts off and when it cuts on built in and the contacts are designed for much higher amps then your unit uses..

 

Thanks, ray. You can tell from pic, it's 3 part device. Light diode, thermostat and heating element.
OK, I'll get one as backup. She's addicted to that thing. Toughest part will be installing thermocouple onto the mold. I'll figure.

 

Light may not work at lower voltage or be dimmer but lower voltage won't harm it.