Generator Inlet/Power Cord

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  #1  
Old 01-22-13, 09:02 AM
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Generator Inlet/Power Cord

Hi, I am looking to purchase a 7000w/8500w generator and trying to spec out what I need to purchase. The generator uses L14-30R twist locks. I am looking at purchasing the item below for the inlet box.

Amazon.com: Reliance Controls PB30 L14-30 30 Amp Generator Power Cord Inlet Box For Up To 7,500 Watt Generators: Patio, Lawn & Garden

Now, according to amazon. The inlet box is for generators up to 7.5K watts. I am not sure if they mean running or starting watts. Can I use this or should I upgrade to the next size bigger? The same goes for the power cord.

Amazon.com: Reliance Controls PC3010 10-Feet 30-Amp L14-30 Generator Power Cord for up to 7500-Watt Generators: Patio, Lawn & Garden

Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 01-22-13, 09:36 AM
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Its for running watts.... You can exceed the spec for short surge watts.
 
  #3  
Old 01-22-13, 02:29 PM
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Thanks Lawrosa! Would a 10-3 w/ground wire be sufficient? A friend of mine recommended that I use a 8-3.
 
  #4  
Old 01-22-13, 02:53 PM
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Unless you have a really long run (say over 60 or 70'), you'll be just fine with 10/3 (w/ground)
 
  #5  
Old 01-23-13, 08:44 AM
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FYI even though your generator is rated for 7000/8500 (surge) watts your L1430 outlet will most likely be fused at 25 amps so 7.5 rated is fine. One question I have though is how are you connecting this to your service?? Are you using a Generator panel or what?
 
  #6  
Old 01-27-13, 12:25 PM
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You will also need a switchbox similar to this 30 Amp 10-Circuit Heavy Duty Transfer Switch-Q310C at The Home Depot

Before you purchase, make sure the circuits in the switchbox are rated at or above the amperage of the breakers in your main panel for the circuits you intend to connect to the switchbox.

Do NOT connect your generator directly to your main panel or backfeed through a dryer outlet (yes people have been known to do that)without a transfer switch. You could energize the grid lines and risk electrocuting a lineman working to restore power during an outage.

Hope this helps

CrispyB
 
  #7  
Old 01-27-13, 01:02 PM
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CrispyB, I have heard of a lot of folks who back-feed through a 220 (or dryer) outlet and flip the main breaker when doing so. Seems like a pretty simple way to avoid the situation you describe, let me know if I am incorrect.

Mod note: NEVER use a suicide cord into a dryer plug. One mistake and someone dies.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 01-27-13 at 01:25 PM.
  #8  
Old 01-27-13, 01:34 PM
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Graham any action that requires human intervention can easily fail. All it takes is to forget once and it can be a disaster. Even if you remember will someone else if they do it? What about the "helpful" person who see the main breaker off and turns it on thinking that is why their widget has no power.

A suicide cord needed to plug into a dryer receptacle if it comes out on one end can leave lethal metal prongs exposed.

And if none of that bothers you remember if someone is injured or dies reckless endangerment and homicide by careless disregard are felonies.
 
  #9  
Old 01-27-13, 01:45 PM
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Graham052,

Yes, in theory that works. In reality, it's illegal. One false move and someone could pay with their life and you could lose everything you own in the ensueing lawsuits. Likely? no. Possible? yes.

Spending $300 for a switchbox seems like good insurance to me.

The dryer circuit is likely 10GA rated for 30A. Any generator with a supply circuit rated over that connected to your dryer outlet could pose a fire hazard if you were not careful to keep your loads within the 30A limit of the dryer circuit. Most small backup gennys do fall into the 30A catagory though.

I doubt many people have the details of how much current that everything in their house uses. I do only because I have done an inventory on all my energy consumption in order to design a solar powered backup system which I also intend to milk every electron from even when the grid is not down

The switchbox is a safe and convenient way to select grid or generator/solar power without worrying about hurting someone, or worse.
 
  #10  
Old 01-27-13, 02:04 PM
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Thanks for setting the record straight!
 
  #11  
Old 01-27-13, 03:43 PM
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I hooked up my switchbox the day before Sandy and wired in an inlet box for the generator cord similar to the one the OP posted. I fired up the genny to give er a test drive and the breakers tripped immediately.

I spent the rest of the day pulling my hair out trying to figure out the problem . Turns out I overtightened the strain relief on the inlet box and the little bump in the center of the clamp pierced the outer insulation and just enough of one of the hots inside that it shorted. (good thing I connected the ground wire to the box)

I can be somewhat OCD when it comes to getting stuff right, so my point is even careful people can make mistakes.
 
  #12  
Old 05-21-13, 12:22 PM
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I measured my run and its going to be 75 feet. Should I get the 8/3 w/ground?. If so, would I still be able to use the PB30 for the inlet box?
 
  #13  
Old 05-21-13, 01:48 PM
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7500 watts 240 = 31.25 so yes. You should be able to stay with the same inlet if it matches the receptacle on the generator. The reason for upsizing is possible voltage drop over distance. I am assuming we are talking about the hard wiring not the connector cord between inlet and generator. If we are talking about the connector cord I'd move the inlet closer to the generator.

Disclaimer: Old thread I have not fully reread it.
 
  #14  
Old 05-22-13, 08:40 AM
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Yes, I am talking about the hard wire connection and not the connector cord. Out of curiosity, why would that make a difference?

In addition, is this a yes to using both the 8/3 wire and the PB30 box or yes to only the PB30? Thanks!
 
  #15  
Old 05-22-13, 10:49 AM
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Service cord is a more expensive then UF is why I asked if it was the hard wired part. Yes, use an inlet that matches the receptacle on your generator. If the receptacle on the generator is 30 amp use a 30 amp inlet. Upsize the cable to 8-3 because of distance and continuous load factors.
 
  #16  
Old 08-09-13, 11:14 PM
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Now for the actual power cord that connects from the inlet box to the generator. Should that be 8/3 also or can I get away with 10/3 w/ground? Can one even purchase a 8/3 or will it have to be custom made with the L14-30 plugs? What type of cord will you recommend using ie SOOW or SJOOW?
 

Last edited by xheesh; 08-10-13 at 12:52 AM.
  #17  
Old 08-10-13, 06:23 AM
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10-4 is okay so long as the distance is less than 100 feet.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 08-10-13 at 07:05 AM.
  #18  
Old 08-10-13, 06:55 AM
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The flex cord needs to be 10-4. The ground is counted in flex cord. It is not counted in cables like NM.
 
  #19  
Old 08-10-13, 07:07 AM
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Thanks for waking me up PCBoss. I have corrected my post. I really did know that...really.
 
  #20  
Old 08-10-13, 09:08 AM
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Thanks. So I am going to run 8/3 w/ground from panel to inlet box. Then use a 10/4 cord with L14-30 plugs for the generator hookup. Do I get that in SJOOW or SOOW?
 
  #21  
Old 08-10-13, 09:40 AM
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The "J" denotes the voltage rating. "J" for junior is 300 volts and no"J" is 600 volts. For your needs junior is fine and easier to work with because the insulation isn't as heavy. Also probably cheaper.

As posted by Ibpooks
S = service (up to 600V)
SJ = junior (up to 300V; cheaper than S)
W = wet areas
O = oil / gasoline resistant
A = atmosphere resistant (includes extreme temps, UV, water)
T = thermoplastic PVC insulation (instead of rubber)
E = elastomer synthetic insulation
1 (or no number) = normal duty
2 = heavy duty
3 = extreme duty
 
  #22  
Old 08-10-13, 02:45 PM
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Thanks for all your replies guys. Out of curiosity, why is it ok to run 8/3 to the pb-30 and then 10/4 to the generator? I am running the 8/3 w/g due to voltage drop concerns. I am also looking for a dutch lap mounting plate to use with the pb-30. Is there such a thing?
 
  #23  
Old 08-10-13, 03:14 PM
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A cable like 8-3 is actually 4 conductors, two insulated hots, an insulated neutral and a grounding conductor. Flex cords use a different convention.

Look at something like the MM10 from Arlington to install behind your inlet.
 
  #24  
Old 08-13-13, 10:07 AM
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Just found this. Amazon.com: Reliance Controls PBN30 Plastic Case Power Inlet Box, 30-Amp: Patio, Lawn & Garden I think this would be better to protect against the elements once the generator cord is connected. Any thoughts on this compared to the pb-30?
 
  #25  
Old 08-13-13, 10:31 AM
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You want one from the bottom as they are weather proof... The one you linked is not....

From what I know anyway...


They make plastic or metal...

Gentran Corporation: Generator Transfer switches for home & business
 
  #26  
Old 08-13-13, 11:50 AM
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You want one from the bottom as they are weather proof...
Correct. The one the OP linked to appears to have the cord connection on the bottom. If so, it should work well.
 
  #27  
Old 08-13-13, 12:18 PM
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Sorry... I meant the one you linked to in your first post.... The other one I looked quick... I assume they are showing it without the cover on it...
 
  #28  
Old 08-13-13, 01:38 PM
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I meant the one you linked to in your first post....
Somebody else's post?

The other one I looked quick... I assume they are showing it without the cover on it...
Pretty sure they are. Certainly hope so.
 
  #29  
Old 08-13-13, 01:51 PM
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From: Shop Reliance 30-Amp Generator Power Inlet Box at Lowes.com

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16298[/ATTACH]

I think it is the same one. Both are listed as PBN30
 
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  #30  
Old 08-13-13, 05:45 PM
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That is a nice inlet and plenty of room to wire in. The one link does show it with the cover off.
 
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