gfi outlet headache - frustrated in Montana

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  #1  
Old 01-25-13, 10:45 AM
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gfi outlet headache - frustrated in Montana

Post is out of order because O/P posted twice and this post was moved from the deleted duplicate thread.

New GFCI's have built in sensors that will keep it from resetting in the case of a miswire or other wiring fault on install. You apparently have other receptacles feeding off the GFCI and of course that is fine but when the GFCi is out then the others are off too. The GFCI protects these receptacles as well when properly wired. The incoming wires should go to the line inputs and the other wires going down stream should be wired into the load lugs/screws. If you do this and still does not work then you most likely have a wiring issue with one of the other outlets. Check them to see that no one wired them backwards and no other issues are found. Of course a defective GFCI is not out of the question but check this other stuff first.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 01-25-13 at 11:53 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-25-13, 10:50 AM
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gfi outlet headache - frustrated in Montana

We bought a new home (new for us - it was built in 1996)

In the kitchen, the GFI was thrown almost every morning, drove me nuts so I replaced with new

But now, I have 5 outlets that do not work at all (although the GFI outlet works/has power)

I checked breakers - all good - even switched some out to double check

I think I understand line and load, but must be really screwing something up. Also confused about the upper and lower hole on each entry on back of gfi - when to use upper, or lower and why?

Also - the new GFI will not "TEST" - i.e...its just on all the time - will not switch off when I push test button


IDEAS?????
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-13, 11:45 AM
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I think I understand line and load, but must be really screwing something up. Also confused about the upper and lower hole on each entry on back of gfi
There is no uper or lower when speaking of a GFCI. There is only line and load side. Which is which is indicated by printing embossed into the back of the GFCI.

Line is where the hot cable connects. Load is where the cable to the down stream receptacles that will be protected by the GFCI. To determine which cable is hot measure between black and white of a disconnected cable with a multimeter or test light but not a non-contact tester. The cable that shows 120 volts goes to the line side.
the new GFI will not "TEST"
Be sure not mix the whites and blacks. It will not work correctly if say you put the black hot on the line side and hot white on the load side.
 
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Old 01-25-13, 11:46 AM
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It sounds like you got the line and load mixed up. You should have the power coming in from the breaker on the "Line" side, with the power going to the other outlet on the "load" side.
 
  #5  
Old 01-25-13, 11:59 AM
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The LINE is the power coming to the GFI, the LOAD is anything downstream from there, such as the other outlets. That may be the problem if it is reversed.

Chris
 
  #6  
Old 01-25-13, 02:43 PM
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Thanks for all - but.....

If I have already switched both (what I thought was LINE set, to the LOAD) and vice versa......and it does not correct the issue then.....

Do I have a defective GFI?
or
Miswired in other outlets?

(just to clarify - the old GFI was thrown almost every morning when I got up - so it was either shot, or something was tripping it - but once I pressed it it seemed to be fine for the rest of the day - it never tripped again)

On this new one - I have never got the thing to trip. Besides the not powering the other outlets right, the thing won't trip when I push test.


THAT GIVE ANY FURTHER CLUES??
 
  #7  
Old 01-25-13, 04:46 PM
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Wire a regular receptacle to the cable you think is line. Cap off (do not connect) the load wires. Plug a lamp into the test receptacle and restore power. Does the lamp light?
 
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