Finishing up my subpanel install (pics)...suggestions?

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  #1  
Old 03-03-13, 08:44 PM
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Finishing up my subpanel install (pics)...suggestions?

This site has been very helpful for me to complete this project. Can someone give these pics a look and let me know if you see anything obviously wrong or anything an inspector might not like? Down below are a few pictures of my 100 amp sub panel install. At the very bottom, are links to the larger versions of the same pictures.

The biggest challenge was the fact that all the existing circuits come from the top of the main panel. That made it tough to free up space for the 100 amp breaker by moving breakers below the main panel. I was able to move the air conditioner circuit to the sub (that's 2 spaces). That was the only circuit not coming in from the top; it came in from the back. To free up the other two spaces, I ran a new cable for my 220 garage outlets to a junction box in the attic to the new sub panel.

I used 3 gauge THHN copper cable for the 100 amp feed and 8 gauge solid copper for the ground. The ground is run from a separate ground bar to the ground/neutral bus in the main. The neutral in the sub panel is not bonded. I had to move breakers around some to open the 4 spaces for the 100 amp breaker. The top right breaker in the main is shorter than I'd like it to be. It's not stressed or pulling, but you can see it's not as neat as the rest.

When I pulled a new cable into the attic I pulled 2 more 14/2 cables for future work I have planned (that's the 2-15a breaker that are switched off. The other ends are currently terminate in a junction box in the attic. Thanks!







http://www.peak9media.com/pics/misc/epanel1.jpg

http://www.peak9media.com/pics/misc/epanel2.jpg

http://www.peak9media.com/pics/misc/epanel3.jpg
 
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  #2  
Old 03-03-13, 10:43 PM
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Looks like a good job. Should be ok for inspection.

You could have run the #8 ground thru the same offset nipple as the service wire.

I only see one ground wire to the panel. I'm guessing water service and no ground rod.
I also remove the plastic jacket at the connector.....just inside the panel.
 
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Old 03-04-13, 05:03 AM
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Thanks PJmax. I was hesitant to run any more wires through that nipple, as I just wasn't sure how much was allowed in there. Good to know though.

There is one ground from the main panel to a grounding rod just outside of this wall. The sub is grounded back to the main, as you saw. Should there be an additional ground somewhere?

Which "plastic jacket at the connector" are you referring to? Sorry you lost me on that one...
 
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Old 03-04-13, 06:29 AM
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PJ is talking about the yellow sheath on the one cable. You need at least 1/4", but do not need as much as you left.

Now, looking at the knockout with the blue bushing, it looks like I can see insulation. The wires need to be in conduit.

On the bottom left breakers, I see a black and a red. That looks like both legs are fed from the same bus. If so you would overload the neutral. Check the voltage at the breaker between the two screws. You should get 240. If you get 0, it is mis-wired.
 
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Old 03-04-13, 08:10 AM
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The sheath...got it. Yes, I meant trim that back. Thanks for the clarification.

You do see insulation in that blue bushing, but the wires are indeed in PVC conduit. The cover was off the box on the outside of the house, so I just stuffed a piece in there temporarily to stop the draft. I'll remove it.

I'll check the voltage tonight, when I get home to see if it checks out. But this has me a bit worried...if that one is wrong, then all 3 of the 220 circuit in the sub panel are wrong! How else would it be wired? In case it's just hard to see in the pictures, I have the black and red wires connected to the 2-pole breaker, the white to the neutral bus and the ground to the neutral bus.

I fit helps...this is the sub panel box I am using GE TLM812FCUDP LOAD CENTER :: SINGLE PHASE CONVERTIBLE LOAD CENTERS :: LOAD CENTERS & ACCESSORIES :: LOAD CENTERS & SERVICE ENTRANCE EQUIP. :: DISTRIBUTION EQUIPMENT :: Edwards Supply Co., Inc.

Are there other electrical measurements I should be checking to confirm proper wiring?
 
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Old 03-04-13, 08:14 AM
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I don't use GE, but could not tell if the breakers were full size or minis.
 
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Old 03-04-13, 08:18 AM
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In looking at the larger pics of what you have posted ...... your wiring and breaker locations should be proper. It can sometimes be difficult to see in a picture.
 
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Old 03-04-13, 08:22 AM
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Cool, thanks guys. I really appreciate it!
 
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Old 03-04-13, 11:10 AM
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I don't use GE, but could not tell if the breakers were full size or minis.
The 240V breaker in slots 5 and 7 in the main panel (the breaker supplying the subpanel) is in two full-height slots. All of the other breakers are half-height, or minis.
 
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Old 03-04-13, 11:22 AM
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When you trim the sheathing on the 12-2/G Romex entering the subpanel, you can write the load on a short piece of it and leave it around the wires, just not up against the cable clamp. It looks like that was done with some of the cables entering the main panel.

Are there only two 2-conductor cables entering through the cable clamp at the top right of the subpanel? One 12-2 and one 14-2? Can you re-work those cables to eliminate the curl above the clamp?

To the extent that you can re-work the wires to not have them press against the walls of the enclosure, it is better practice. Especially the red feeder.

This is kinda picky stuff. Overall, it looks good.
 
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Old 03-04-13, 11:38 AM
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I like the way you think! Yes, most of the cable were originally labeled that way, not sure why I didn't think to continue the practice...but I will.

Yes, 2 conductors in that clamp and that curl bugged me too. Picky is ok with me! I think when stuff like this is neat and clean, it says a lot about the work that you can't see. I got lazy I guess - thanks for pointing it out. I'll loosen up that clamp and fix it. Thanks!!
Yes
 
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