Running 12VDC unterminated wires to 120VAC wall outlet

I'm purchasing a linear actuator in order to build a TV lift and would like to know what my options are to power it.

The actuator uses 3 Amps at full load so I'm thinking to go with a 5 Amp 12VDC to 120VAC converter. The company sells one for $85 that covers 10 Amps but there must be a cheaper way to power it. I just don't know how to run unterminated wires to a standard converter (laptop chargers, etc.)

Here is a link to the actual product: Linear Actuators

Here is a link to the companies power converter: Linear Actuators

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

You will probably want to use a double pole switch with a center off postion so you can move the actuator forward and backwards and stop where you want to. Acuator gets wired to the center two lugs. Power supply gets wired to each set of outside terminals but one side is reversed.

 

Welcome to the forums.

You can use a power supply like this.

The wiring is low voltage and can be soldered and heat shrunk or wire nutted.
Or...solder the power supply wiring and the motor wiring directly to the switch. No splices at all.

And a schematic..... like DMCman suggested

 

Perfect, thanks for the explanation. I forgot to mention in the original post that I planned on also purchasing a sustained rocker switch from the company for $14 but I think the double pole double throw center off switch may be the same thing.

Also to clarify, would I buy one of these cigarette lighters with leeds? _y]Roadpro 12V Fused Replacement Cigarette Lighter Plug with Leads : Amazon.com : Automotive[/url]

Here is a link to the rocker switch: Linear Actuators

Here is a picture of their diagram:

This is the rocker I am looking to purchase for a few dollars, would I wire it like the diagram I provided or the diagram that PJmax posted? 2 Pcs Rocker Switch 6 Pin 250V16A 125V20A on Off High Current DPDT 6P New | eBay

 

It's the same diagram.....so follow whichever is easier to understand. You could buy a cigarette plug or just cut that jack off and wire directly to the switch.

 

I understand the wiring configuration for the rocker now, thanks again.

I have a few more quick questions,

Will the on/off rocker that I linked do the trick? I want the on position to raise the actuator and the off position to lower the actuator.

Also, would this do the trick as far as my DC converter? Bestek 7 Amp AC to 12V DC Power Supply Adapter Charger TV Car Cigarette Socket | eBay

The title describes it as having 7 Amps but in the description I read 1.5A and 7A? Also the description states that it converts DC power to 110VAC power, shouldn't it state 120VAC?

 

The switch you linked to is on or off. You need a double pole double throw center off momentary switch.

Basically you need a switch with two "ons"

One "on" is up.....in the center is nothing/off....and the other "on" is down

ON-OFF-ON

Double Pole Double Throw on Off on Toggle Switch
OR
Double Pole Double Throw Rocker Switch

 

understood, wouldn't I want a sustained rocker switch so I wouldn't have to manually hold the rocker in the on position the entire duration of the actuator rising?

also would the power adapter I linked be sufficient? I noticed it said it converts to 110VAC and not 120VAC in the description

 

The power supply you linked to has the following specs.
Input: 100-240v @ 1.5A 50/60HZ; Output: DC12V @ 7A

So it should work just fine for your application.


Yes.....you can use a sustained postion switch because that actuator has automatic endstops.
The two switches I left in the links are of that type.

 

Yes. What you're trying to do is essentially the same as the controls used to lower and raise a projection screen.

Here's an example from one company that specializes in this work: Draper’s Flatscreen Lifts

 

I ended up going with this AC to DC converter: Bestek 7 Amp AC to 12V DC Power Supply Adapter Charger TV Car Cigarette Socket | eBay

When I cut the cord leading up to the cigarette jack I found a blue and copper wire (as seen in the photo below). Are they substitutes for the normal red and black wires? Thanks again

 

Use a multimeter set to DC to determine which is positive.

 

Is there a way to find out without using a multimeter? I don't have one

 

No. A decent analog multimeter should cost you less than $15.

 

The uninsulated wire is usually the ground or the negative in those adapters but I would get a meter just to be sure
The colored wire blue in this case SHOULD be the positive
but as I said get a meter to be 100% sure

 

Well there is the old red litmus paper test or the water glass test but I doubt we need to get that archaic. Every one should have a hammer, a screw driver, and a multimeter.

 

No problem.

In your case the polarity isn't critical. Try it one way.....the worst that can happen is the lift goes the wrong direction. The switch you are connecting to is a polarity reversing switch.