Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Electrical, AC & DC. Electronic Equipment and Computers > Electrical - AC & DC
Reload this Page >

Razor only replaced with GFCI but now other connected outlets don't work

Razor only replaced with GFCI but now other connected outlets don't work

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-15-13, 09:27 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NJ - USA
Posts: 43,430
Welcome to the forums.

Was everything working ok with the regular receptacle in there ?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 04-15-13, 10:13 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 4
Razor only replaced with GFCI but now other connected outlets don't work

The bathroom "razor only" outlet was changed to a new GFCI and it works, but now the other outlets daisy chained off that do not. There were 2 black wires, 2 white wires and 2 ground. We identified the line/load wires and attached them accordingly as well as the ground. We have tried to move some of the wires to different terminals to see if that might work but then the GFCI doesn't work (won't even reset) and the rest still don't.
The chain is this: wall outlet, new bathroom GFCI (where power stops), 3 more wall outlets then another GFCI in a different bathroom (which previously was a razor only as well).
 
  #3  
Old 04-16-13, 04:55 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 32,631
Only the firast receptacle in the chain should be GFCI. It sounds like it isn't from what you wrote.
The chain is this: wall outlet, new bathroom GFCI (where power stops), 3 more wall outlets then another GFCI in a different bathroom (which previously was a razor only as well)
Is the highlighted receptacle in a bathroom? If not it shouldn't be on the circuit. If it is it is the one that needs GFCI protection.

We identified the line/load wires
How? You didn't use a non contact tester, did you?
 
  #4  
Old 04-16-13, 08:28 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 4
The first outlet is actually in the hallway on the outside of the bathroom which has power, and the wire continues up the wall to the inside to the new GFCI in the bathroom, then to the 3 bedroom outlets (no power) and finally to the GFCI in the ensuite which isn't working now as well.
And yes, we used a non-contact voltage tester. Of the 2 black and 2 white wires, only one black had any power. The rest were dead.
 
  #5  
Old 04-16-13, 08:41 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 32,631
And yes, we used a non-contact voltage tester
Then your testing was meaningless and you need to test using either a multimeter (preferably analog) or a test light. I'd recommend an $8-$15 analog multimeter as a good investment for this and future testing.

The first outlet is actually in the hallway
Not compliant with current code. Code requires a dedicated 20 amp circuit for bathroom receptacles. If this is a 15 amp circuit I would suggest when you get it up and working run a new 20 amp circuit to the first bathroom receptacle. This circuit can power the ensuite bathroom.circuit but if Canadian code is same as US it can not power bathroom lights if it powers two or more bathrooms. Bedrooms can not be on a bathroom circuit.

Code based on US NECC but Canadian code is similar.
 
  #6  
Old 04-16-13, 08:42 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 4
The first receptacle is actually in the hallway and it still works.
The entire house is wired very strangely. One breaker will control 2-3 outlets/switches in several different rooms of the house.
 
  #7  
Old 04-16-13, 08:54 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 4
It is a 15 amp. The bathroom lights aren't even on the same breaker that the outlets we're having issues with. To get all the power in the main bathroom off, we need to turn off 3 breakers, which also turns off various plugs and lights around the house. If this is a rewiring issue then i'll call an electrician in. If its not up to code like you suggested then I'd like it to be. I'm ok with changing out plugs/lights but not playing around with the electrical panel. Thank you for your help!
 
  #8  
Old 04-16-13, 09:45 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NJ - USA
Posts: 43,430
Of the 2 black and 2 white wires, only one black had any power. The rest were dead.
That's exactly the way it should be. You power comes in on one cable.....white and black..... and that black is the only hot wire.

And it leaves on the second cable.... white and black.

You won't measure anything on the black leaving the junction box until it's connected.
 
  #9  
Old 04-16-13, 10:44 AM
Nashkat1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 8,470
The bathroom "razor only" outlet was changed to a new GFCI and it works, but now the other outlets daisy chained off that do not. There were 2 black wires, 2 white wires and 2 ground. We identified the line/load wires and attached them accordingly as well as the ground. We have tried to move some of the wires to different terminals to see if that might work but then the GFCI doesn't work (won't even reset) and the rest still don't.
If, as you say, you identified the black/white pair coming from the panel (through the receptacle in the hallway) and attached that pair to the LINE terminals and got the new GFCI to go off with the TEST button and come on with the RESET button, then you connected it properly. If you attached the only other black and white wires to the LINE terminals and nothing down line works, then you have either a bad connection or a bad GFCI. I would return that GFCI for a different one and try that.

You didn't say what the GFCI was rated for. A 15A device is all you need, even after you upgrade the wiring and the breaker to supply a 20A circuit that only feeds the receptacles inside the two bathrooms.
 
  #10  
Old 04-16-13, 11:06 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 32,631
A 15A device is all you need, even after you upgrade the wiring and the breaker to supply a 20A
Nash, member is in Canada. I believe from what has previously posted here require 20 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits.
 
  #11  
Old 04-16-13, 02:43 PM
Nashkat1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 8,470
OK, if that's their requirement that's fine.

Sweetchickie, if your code requires 20A devices on 20A circuits then that's what you heed to get.

I'll say it again: All codes is local."
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'