Generator Inlet Power

I know questions like this has been asked a few times on this forum before but I can't find an exact replica of what I am attempting to do.

I just purchased a Honda EU2000i with two receptacles that are 20A 125V. What I want to do is run one extension cord (12 ga?) from one of the receptacles to a power inlet outdoors that is NOT connected to my home power. The power inlet would then be wired to and INDOOR double outlet that I would use to connect indoor extension cords to power whatever is needed in the house. I just want a secure and legal way to get the power into the house without the use of a window, door, or transfer switch (expensive) for security purposes.

I appreciate the help!

 

If the inlet will be located on the wall of the house you can run #12 NM-b to the receptacle. Good practice is to use a receptacle of distinctive color such as red or blue and label the receptacle Generator only; Not connected to house house power system. You might want to install two duplex receptacles and cables. One for each receptacle on the generator but that would require two inlets.

 

I am planning on ordering two of these: Leviton 4937 Weatherproof Inlet on Flush Mount Wallplate with Aluminum Cover, Straight Blade Receptacle, Gray - Amazon.com

It is rated at 15 amp 125 Volt. The Honda EU2000 max output is 2000W max. (16.7A).

Will the receptacle be enough?

Thanks for the help already.

 

No, you need in use bubble covers. You could use the inlet and just use a different cover than the one included.

 

Will a 15A rated inlet work with the max output being 16.7A?

 

I'd say yes if the generator's receptacle is 15 amp and breaker is 15 amp but that is guess.Except for the slot configuration probably the guts of a 15 amp inlet or the same as a 20 amp inlet but wait for the pros to weigh in.

 

I mean its only 16.8A when its at the surge load...its running amp is 13

 

So I think I have found everything I need to make this work...let me know what yall think:

1. SouthWire 28828221 12/2WG NMB Wire 25-Foot
2. Arlington DBVR2C-1 Outdoor Electrical Box with Weatherproof Cover for Flat Surface Construction, Clear, Vertical/2-Gang
3. Leviton 88052 2-Gang or Leviton 84052-40 2-Gang
4. Leviton 5239 15 Amp, 125 Volt or Leviton 5278-C 15 Amp, 125 Volt

 

I'm not sure how you would mount that inlet in the box so wait for the pros.

 

The inlets you linked to here are for mounting in plates. You need the inlet you linked to earlier, in a single-gang box, with an in-use cover, on the outside of your house.

IDK why you're looking at two simplex receptacles in a 2-gang box. You only need one duplex receptacle in a standard single-gang box on the inside. I would make it a 20A receptacle, with the different color and the label that Ray suggested.

If you're thinking about running power in from both of the receptacles on your generator, you can separate the two receptacles in the duplex and feed each one from one of the generator receptacles. You will need a second inlet to do that, as already said.

12-2/G cable for one inlet and one circuit; 12-3/G for two inlets and two circuits.

 

You could use the 12-3 only if there was 240 volts between the two hots.

 

Oops! Good point. .

 

I was looking at the two simplex receptacles in the 2 gang box thinking that it could hold the 2 inlets on the outside of the house that would link to a 1 gang duplex receptacle on the inside. Is this feasable? Is the way you suggested the only way to run two lines from the generator inside? Is it even really necessary for me to run both lines?

Thanks for all the help so far, its been great

 

You need two inlets, not two receptacles. I have no idea how to mount the ones you showed to a box. You might be able to mount two of the devices inside the other inlet you showed and then cover that with a 2-gang bubble cover.

Depends on how much load you want to supply in as outage. Also whether the two receptacles on the generator are two independent circuits. Testing for 240V across their hots should tell you that if the manual doesn't.

 

Amazon is very confused and ill informed. In your first link they repeatedly refer to an inlet as a receptacle. That is wrong. However I just did an image search and I found no 120 volt inlets with a mounting yolk for a standard box. My suggestion would be to buy two of the ones you first posted (Leviton 4937 Weatherproof Inlet on Flush Mount Wallplate with Aluminum Cover, Straight Blade Receptacle, Gray - Amazon.com) and buy a used weather proof breaker box, gut it and mount them in there. Depth might not be enough to mount on the back so I'd mount one on each side facing toward the center.

Edit: I have posted what is probably a better idea in post #17.

 

Interesting! I would make a mounting plate to fit inside a WP box and still let the bubble cover fit on. Bit of work though.

This is ridiculous. How are you supposed to properly cover one of these if they all come ready-made with trap door covers attached?

Maybe the first one - Leviton 4937 Weatherproof Inlet on Flush Mount Wallplate - could be covered with an in-use cover. certainly the price is right.

 

Using Nash's idea here is how I would do it. Start with a 6x6 PVC junction box. a blank PVC cover and two of the round inlets (Leviton 5239 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Flanged Inlet Receptacle, Straight Blade, Commercial Grade, Grounding, Back Wired, Black - Amazon.com). Using a hole saw drill openings for the inlets and drill mounting screw holes. Mount the inlets to the 6x6 cover plate. (Keep the spacing and location of the inlets in line with the dimensions of a 2 gang box centered in the cover plate. when mounting.) Mount a two gang buble cover to the cover plate using a gasket and/or silicone and machine screws with nuts.

A 4x4 PVC box might work but the 6x6 insures the mounting holes for the blank cover plate are not obstructed by the buble cover.