Adding outside box

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Old 07-04-13, 02:43 PM
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Adding outside box

I am adding an outside box (EATON) so that it can be locked. The box I bought has four screws at the top. Two, the center ones, are marked "LINE" and the two on the outside of them are not marked. I would assume that these are for the load.

Do I put the two lines coming into the box, Black one to the screw marked "Line" and the White one to the other screw (Load)? Then do I put the Black wire going out of the box to the screw marked "Line" and the White wire going out of the box to the other screw (Load)?

There is a pull out, shutoff at the top of the box. It is like the ones used for A/C shutoffs near the unit.

I hope this is clear. I may want to send a picture.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 07-04-13 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Remove unneeded fonr formatting.
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Old 07-04-13, 02:54 PM
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Welcome to the forum. In the future please reply using the reply screen and do not add unnecesary font formatting. I have removed the font formatting from your original post because it was difficult to read.

Is this a 240 volt line? If it is 240 volts both wires in go to the line side. The wires out go to the load side. The whites must be remarked black, red or any color but gray, green or white.

If this is 120 volts the black power in to line power out to load, and whites wire nutted together. Blacks must be on matched line load terminals.
 
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Old 07-04-13, 02:59 PM
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I question anyone that joins, posts a question with little information and then signs off within a minute of posting is coming back. I hope that tbobb proves me wrong but I'm not holding my breath.
 
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Old 07-04-13, 03:00 PM
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Yeah, a picture would really help. Outside the box, as well as the inside. If it is like a disconnect, you think "inside" and "outside" screws. Inside ones are line and the outside ones are load. Are you connecting 120 volts or 240 volts? For 120 volts white wires wire nutted together. Match line and load terminals for black. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 

Last edited by ray2047; 07-04-13 at 03:16 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 07-04-13, 05:00 PM
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Sorry about the font problem. I appreciate the responses and am sorry to the person I made mad. I did not expect as rapid response as I received.

I will take some pictures and send them along.

Tom B.
 
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Old 07-04-13, 05:09 PM
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You didn't make anyone mad. We don't get mad. We read a lot of posts and the change in font makes it too busy. But, you're cool. If you are referring to the deleted post, we made a change to my response #4 making my second response unnecessary.
We'll wait on the pictures, unless the description we gave you was sufficient.
 
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Old 07-06-13, 02:03 PM
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Pictures

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I hope that these pictures come thru. I have the power coming thru the wall in the back of the box. It then goes to the plug and also goes to the sprinkler control that is shown in these pictures.

Tom
 
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Old 07-06-13, 02:13 PM
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Sorry but everything about that is wrong. That box was never intended for a receptacle and that is not how you install an outside receptacle. Plus you have NM-b cable (Romex) running in an outside conduit. That is not allowed.

Throw away the box you have and use a single gang weatherproof receptacle box.

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Use a weatherproof GFCI receptacle in the box unless the cable to it is connected to a GFCI. In the latter case use a weatherproof receptacle

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Use a bubble cover on the junction box.

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The Romex out of the wall is okay but you need to use either individual THWN wires (black, white, green)or 12-2 UF-b cable in the Sealtite conduit.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 07-06-13 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 07-06-13, 03:21 PM
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Addin outside box

I appreciate your reponse. The man I am doing the work for wants to be able to lock the box that the plug is in. I don't think the plug and the cover that you show can be locked.

Let me know what I can use to allow him to lock it.
 
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Old 07-06-13, 03:38 PM
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Refer him to an electrician. You really don't want to get involved in this and obviously don't have the knowledge or training for it.

Based on Chandler's post which follows this: You would need to install a single gang electrical box on the side of the disconnect and replace the cover inside the disconnect. You would need to use a nipple between the disconnect and the single gang box. All wiring except the Romex from inside to the disconnect would have to be THWN individual wires. If you bypassed the disconnect when connecting sprinkler via the Sealtite it would be on even when the receptacle was locked off.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 07-06-13 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 07-06-13, 03:45 PM
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In addition if he wants to lock it to prevent electrical theft, then just pull the disconnect, turn it upside down and replug it back into the box. The external receptacle won't have power until it is reversed and made "live".
 
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Old 07-06-13, 05:26 PM
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Chandler's response was better, however, the power supplies power to the sprinkler system and so he cannot pull the disconnect and turn in around. It would shut-off the sprinklers also.
 
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Old 07-06-13, 06:32 PM
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the power supplies power to the sprinkler system and so he cannot pull the disconnect and turn in around.
Please reread what I wrote:
If you bypassed the disconnect when connecting sprinkler via the Sealtite it would be on even when the receptacle was locked off.
Are you saying there is a reason to have the sprinkler control on the disconnect?
 
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Old 07-06-13, 06:41 PM
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  • Why does he want to lock the receptacle?
  • As Ray said, you can feed into the box with the disconnect, splice in the feed for the sprinkler before the disconnect, and feed only the receptacle from the disconnect.
  • This in-use cover from Cooper Industries is "Lockable to prevent accidental disconnects." There may be others.
 
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Old 07-06-13, 07:43 PM
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I finally got it. Thanks for your help.
Tom
 
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