Sauna - 1 Phase 240 volt

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Old 08-10-13, 07:44 PM
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Sauna - 1 Phase 240 volt

I am connecting a sauna. It is a 1 Phase 240v 9kW unit. The control panel has the relay contacts in it.

The specification label on the heater calls for 12 AWG supply wire.
That is 12 AWG form the control panel to the heater and is it also 12 AWG from the breaker box to the control panel?

Unit wants a 40A breaker.

In the heater the wires are labelled T1, T2, T3 and T4. The attached image shows connection on the contacts in the control panel for T1/T2 and T1/T2. Can I assume that this corresponds to T1/T2 and T3/T4?

Thanks.
 
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Old 08-10-13, 08:32 PM
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I am connecting a sauna. It is a 1 Phase 240v 9kW unit....

The specification label on the heater calls for 12 AWG supply wire...

Unit wants a 40A breaker...
I would use 8AWG conductors for 40A. The grounding conductor can be 10 AWG. The grounding conductor must be a green insulated wire from the control panel to the heaters.

In the heater the wires are labelled T1, T2, T3 and T4. The attached image shows connection on the contacts in the control panel for T1/T2 and T1/T2. Can I assume that this corresponds to T1/T2 and T3/T4?
Yes. Gotta love it when companies outsource the writing of their labels and instructions along with their manufacturing.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 09:22 AM
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Is it OK to run my 240 sauna heater on my 220 supply?

The heater has the T1-4 wires and also two extra wires inside called 1 and 2. These 1 and 2 connect to a reset button on the bottom of the heater unit and this reset button simply has a bare wire that goes somewhere inside the housing of the heater. (The control panel has it's own capillary temp monitor for the sauna room itself.) I am assuming that 1 and 2 are the limit control wires but I have no timer on my control panel and so I am not using these 1 and 2... I assume... but should they be pigtailed together?

Probably makes no difference if I pigtail 1 and 2 I suppose as the circuit diagram shows that these wires are jumpered in the control panel and indeed they are jumpered at the control panel.

Am I interpreting these 1 and 2 correctly?
 
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Old 08-11-13, 09:46 AM
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Here in the U.S. we have 120/240 vac in the home.

The schematic does show the thermostat with cap. tubing but it also show connecting to a limit control in heater box. I wouldn't think it would be a good idea to bypass that safety switch.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 09:48 AM
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Is it OK to run my 240 sauna heater on my 220 supply?
According to your profile you live in NY. If do, your sauna's heaters will be powered by the two legs of your 120/240V single-phase service. 220V is not available in the US.

Am I interpreting these 1 and 2 correctly?
IDK. The only technical information you've shown us is a label that shows two terminals labeled 1 and 2 that are fed from a limit control in the heater junction box and that supply the on/off switch and the timer. Are those the wires you're asking about?
 
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Old 08-11-13, 10:36 AM
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I understand - even though my control panel does not have a timer the 1 and 2 wires should go back to the control panel as indicated in the schematic. Just like the schematic my control panel has the terminal jumper from point 3 around to point 2 indicating no timer.

Yes I am in NY - I keep thinking that I am at 110V on each leg for some reason.

I take it that it does not matter which leg of my main supply in the breaker box goes to L1 and L2?

The reset switch on the bottom of the heater unit to which connect the 1 and 2 wires has a rubber grommet over it. When I remove the grommet I try to depress the reset switch I get no switch like action - no click no depression?
 
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Old 08-11-13, 11:48 AM
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Yes I am in NY - I keep thinking that I am at 110V on each leg for some reason.
That's OK.

Does residential wiring have to be done in metal conduit where you are?

I take it that it does not matter which leg of my main supply in the breaker box goes to L1 and L2?
Right.

When I remove the grommet I try to depress the reset switch I get no switch like action - no click no depression?
That switch may be one that will only engage when power is present. If it doesn't work after you provide power, you'll have to take that up with the dealer or manufacturer.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 01:05 PM
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I am upstate NY and I will use BX or metal conduit as the run will be exposed on a wall - it is only a run of 10 feet or so.

What is the reset switch on the heater doing? It is on the heater and connected to the 1 and 2 wires that go back to the limit control. (I realize now this limit control and the 1 and 2 wires have not much to do with the timer circuit - that I am not using.) The reset switch on the heater unit has a bare wire comes out and loops around the front of the heater unit. I suppose the reset switch is a type of thermostatic shut-off of the heater set for auto cut-off when exceeded some prescribed temperature? It cuts out the lower voltage going through the ON/OFF switch in the control panel and in turn deactivates the contacts?
 
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Old 08-11-13, 02:12 PM
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I am upstate NY and I will use BX or metal conduit as the run will be exposed on a wall
BX cable is not rated for outside use. PVC conduit would be better outside than EMT because it won't rust.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 02:48 PM
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I am upstate NY and I will use BX or metal conduit as the run will be exposed on a wall - it is only a run of 10 feet or so.
Sealtite or Liquirtight conduit will also work outdoors.

The reset button a GFCI receptacle will not respond unless the GFCI is tripped. This button may work the dsame way.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 06:20 PM
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Actually when I say an exposed run I should say on an inside wall in a garage/shed type structure. The BX will not be externally exposed to the elements but simply on exposed studs inside a shed.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 06:54 PM
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The BX will not be externally exposed to the elements but simply on exposed studs inside a shed.
If that run will be mounted less than 6' AFF it should be made with EMT or Schedule 80 PVC with individual wires pulled in.

Is this before or after the outside disconnect?
 
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Old 08-11-13, 07:21 PM
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It will be less than 6 feet from the floor and I will run the wire in metal tubing.

Regarding the disconnect - the supply comes from my power pole that serves the house and the shed. (Supply goes underground to the house and overhead direct to the shed.) So I am after my pole. There is no other disconnect other than at the pole and a shut off switch in the breaker box. The shed has no external disconnect other than at the pole.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 07:50 PM
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I was asking about the external, visible disconnect for the sauna. There are others here who know more the requirements for a sauna than I do, but I'm pretty sure you need one of those.
 
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Old 08-11-13, 08:28 PM
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That makes sense. The sauna has an external control unit with a switch but it makes sense to have a disconnect.
 
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Old 06-20-14, 09:46 PM
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Breaker for sauna gets a little warm

Built the sauna and it is operating. The 40A (specification) breaker (in the breaker box) for the sauna gets a little warm in usage of the suana.

Is that a problem?

Thanks,

Dean
 
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Old 06-20-14, 11:06 PM
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Looking at the specs of the unit it requires 9kw of power. That's 37.5 amps of power. That's running real close to the limit of a 40A breaker. Yes..... it will run warm.

The company spec'd the size of the breaker so it should be ok.
 
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Old 06-21-14, 04:38 AM
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Reset switch and earth

Thanks again for your help.

The reset switch on the bottom of the heater unit seems jammed on or in - at least to me it does not feel like it pushes in and out, that it is not moving freely.

Should I replace it?

Earth - I ran an earth from the unit to the unit control box as instructed and then an earth, single wire of it's own, back to my breaker box earth - is that right?

Thanks,

Dean
 
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Old 06-21-14, 04:54 AM
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For 9 kw , were it me , I would run # 6 copper for the L1 , L2 , Neutral & # 10 copper for the earth ground and 2 pole 50 amp circuit breaker , for continuous duty .

The question is , will it be turned on for more than 3 hours ?

Will it pull the total 9 kw fore more than 3 hours , before the heaters bring the up the temperature and cycle off ? I do not know ?


God bless
Wyr
 
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Old 06-21-14, 07:12 AM
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The reset switch on the bottom of the heater unit seems jammed on or in - at least to me it does not feel like it pushes in and out, that it is not moving freely.

Should I replace it?
That is probably the limit control and in this case, probably a high temperature limit. It won't pop out unless the heater overheats. It would be similar to the red high temperature limit button on an electric water heater's top thermostat.
 
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