220 v wall outlet "floating" in box. how to fix? (pic)
#1
08-19-13, 04:17 PM
220 v wall outlet "floating" in box. how to fix? (pic)
I'm sorry I realize that this question should have been posted in the "Electrical - AC & DC". I do not know how to delete this. Could the mods please move or delete. Thank you.
So in my on-going saga of trying to fix everything that the previous home-owners did to this house. I came across this beauty behind the stove.
The 220 V outlet seems not suited for the housing and is secured with only one screw. Its sort of floating in the box with large gaps on either side. I can tell that the steel box in the wall extends further to the left behind the drywall.
What is the easiest way to fix this. Is there a different outlet that I should buy that will fit this box. Or some sort of an adapter or extension.
Thanks!
So in my on-going saga of trying to fix everything that the previous home-owners did to this house. I came across this beauty behind the stove.
The 220 V outlet seems not suited for the housing and is secured with only one screw. Its sort of floating in the box with large gaps on either side. I can tell that the steel box in the wall extends further to the left behind the drywall.
What is the easiest way to fix this. Is there a different outlet that I should buy that will fit this box. Or some sort of an adapter or extension.
Thanks!
#2
08-19-13, 04:33 PM
That receptacle is for the 240V circuit that your range requires. 220V is not available in the US.
It appears from your picture that the box in the wall may be an 11-B. If so, each edge will be 4-11/16" long, and you can use a cover such as this: MULB 11526 4-11/16 SQ 1/2D RCPT CVR to mount your receptacle to your existing box.
To do that, you will also need to seal the open knockout visible above the receptacle and any other unsealed openings in the box.
What is the easiest way to fix this.
To do that, you will also need to seal the open knockout visible above the receptacle and any other unsealed openings in the box.
#3
08-19-13, 04:47 PM
Ah yes! 240V my "roots" are showing 
Hi Nashkat1 thanks again! Yes, I measured the box and it is indeed 4-11/16". Perfect, I will order this and the appropriate knockout plugs.
For anyone else, here is what I read about why to seal open knockouts:
"The national electric code says that unused openings in such equipment need to be closed. Covering these openings helps to prevent accidental shocks, helps to prevent hot sparks from escaping if something goes wrong inside the enclosure, and helps to prevent pests from entering. "
Hi Nashkat1 thanks again! Yes, I measured the box and it is indeed 4-11/16". Perfect, I will order this and the appropriate knockout plugs.
For anyone else, here is what I read about why to seal open knockouts:
"The national electric code says that unused openings in such equipment need to be closed. Covering these openings helps to prevent accidental shocks, helps to prevent hot sparks from escaping if something goes wrong inside the enclosure, and helps to prevent pests from entering. "
#4
08-19-13, 05:09 PM
Bill and nealyak, this looks to be a regular double gang receptacle box from where I see the screw inserted into the flange on the receptacle. Take another look to either verify or shoot it down, please.
#5
08-19-13, 06:15 PM
Member
I don't think so, Chandler. Look at the overall height of the receptacle, it's less than the 4 11/16" height/width of the box Look at the location of the single screw holding the receptacle, that's consistent with the screw location on an 11-B box.
That being said, I think what I would do would be to set the box flush with the surface of the stud and install a 1/2" raised 1-Gang plaster frame.
Frost - RACO 837 4-11/16 INCH SQUARE 1G 1/2" RAISED FIXTURE PLASTER FRAME TILE RING SINGLE DEVICE
Then, patch/repair the drywall around the box. Install the flush range receptacle with a metal plate. Of course, install K.O. closers in the extra knockouts in the box too.
Knockout Hole Plugs, Seals & Reducing Washers | MSCDirect.com
That being said, I think what I would do would be to set the box flush with the surface of the stud and install a 1/2" raised 1-Gang plaster frame.
Frost - RACO 837 4-11/16 INCH SQUARE 1G 1/2" RAISED FIXTURE PLASTER FRAME TILE RING SINGLE DEVICE
Then, patch/repair the drywall around the box. Install the flush range receptacle with a metal plate. Of course, install K.O. closers in the extra knockouts in the box too.
Knockout Hole Plugs, Seals & Reducing Washers | MSCDirect.com
#6
08-19-13, 06:22 PM
Group Moderator
#7
08-20-13, 03:27 AM
Thanks guys. I was just looking at the distance from the corner to the screw center, and it seemed a little too much for an 11-b. It was curiosity more than anything.
#8
08-20-13, 06:28 PM
Here is a picture of the box with the drywall cut back. So you can clearly see it is the 11-B box identified by Nashkat1
I got this fits perfectly: Steel City 4 in. x 11/16 in. Square Box Mud RING 1 Device 1/2 Raised - Silver-72C13-25R at The Home Depot
I have two questions:
1. The box is drilled on the left side into the stud. The screws go in at an angle and this puts the entire box at an angle with respect to the face of the wall. The screwed side is deeper in the wall. So now the cover sits at an angle as well. How can I fix this?
2. What can I use to fill in the gaps? Silicone Caulk/ "Great Stuff" spray foam?
I got this fits perfectly: Steel City 4 in. x 11/16 in. Square Box Mud RING 1 Device 1/2 Raised - Silver-72C13-25R at The Home Depot
I have two questions:
1. The box is drilled on the left side into the stud. The screws go in at an angle and this puts the entire box at an angle with respect to the face of the wall. The screwed side is deeper in the wall. So now the cover sits at an angle as well. How can I fix this?
2. What can I use to fill in the gaps? Silicone Caulk/ "Great Stuff" spray foam?
Last edited by MrSmithNV; 08-20-13 at 06:46 PM.
#9
08-21-13, 06:57 AM
Member
1. The box is drilled on the left side into the stud. The screws go in at an angle and this puts the entire box at an angle with respect to the face of the wall. The screwed side is deeper in the wall. So now the cover sits at an angle as well. How can I fix this?
#10
08-21-13, 08:45 AM
Thanks CasualJoe. That makes sense now. I didn't catch the "flush with stud" part before. And I was wondering how I was going to "finish" it. Drywall. Obviously duh! THanks.
