Multiple lights/switches on single circuit.

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Old 08-30-13, 08:30 PM
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Multiple lights/switches on single circuit.

Remodeling one level of a split. Gutted area and reconfigured the rooms. As a result, all of this existing wiring has been removed. Going to wire with fresh runs from newer breaker box. Looking for some advice on running wire in an efficient and correct manner on four of the lights. In the pictured diagram, I have four lights and switches labeled as L1, S1, etc…. The lights in the small interior room are for the powder room and will be on a different circuit due to a vent fan and load I wanted to put on the other lights. For the switch boxes, I am using 22.5 cubic inch boxes and for the ceiling fans I am using 21.5 cubic inch boxes (part of a heavy duty ceiling fan mounting system). L1 is an existing outside light that cannot be a junction. L4 is a closet light that can have a large box if needed. The power will come in from with 14 gauge wire where it is labeled “Power Enters Here”. Is it better to have the junctions in the switch boxes or the light fixture boxes? Does it matter to NEC assuming the junction points have capacity to handle the number of wires? Based on my box sizes, is there enough room for the number of wires? Also, what is the best path to run on a single circuit with 14 gauge wire? For the ceiling fans, I am not installing separate switches for the light and fan. They will be controlled by one switch.
 
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Old 08-30-13, 11:40 PM
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Run a 14-2 w/g from your source to S1 > S2 > S3 > S4.

S1 > L1 a single 14-2 w/g
S2 > L2 a 14-3 w/g
S3 > L3 a 14-3 w/g
S4 > L4 a 14-2 w/g

While you have the rooms open.....run 14-3 to the fans. Cap off the red. If you decide to add a second switch it's already there.
 
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Old 08-31-13, 05:11 AM
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There is no set method to wiring. It is just a matter of connecting the dots in the most efficient manner. If the lights and receptacles are on the same circuit you can feed the switches from the closest receptacle or run a xx-3 cable from receptacle to switch.

I too second running xx-3 to the fan box. It gives you more options down the road. I don't need the light during the day, but do like the fan on.
 
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Old 08-31-13, 10:46 AM
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Thanks for the advice and great suggestion regarding using the 14/3 on the ceiling fans. I looked at trying to go the route the power via the switches, I would have problems bringing that many wires to S2 and S3 due to the HVAC, plumbing vent pipe, and framing. I can bring one wire down to each one. How does this route sound?

Source to S1 > L2 > L3 > S4

I was going to run 14/3 from L2 > S2 and L3 >S3 and 14/2 from S1 to L 1 and S4 to L4.


My ceiling boxes for L2 and L3 are 21.5 cubic inches. So if I use the 14/3 it looks like I will have to add an extension ring to my ceiling boxes as I calculate 22 cubic inch requirement based on 2 wires for power in, 2 wires for power out, 1 for ground, 3 for 14/3 to switch and 3 for the device, which is 11 * 2 (inches for 14 awg) equals 22 cubic inch requirement. Does that sound right? Looks like the requirement for the S1 box would be 18.
 
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Old 08-31-13, 12:45 PM
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If you bring your hot feed into the ceiling box......then you are required to run 14-3 down to the switch location. All new switch locations are required to have neutral present there.
 
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Old 08-31-13, 01:44 PM
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I will run the 14/3 from the ceiling boxes to the switches. Am I OK using a 14/2 going from S4 > L4? S4 and L4 are located in a closet.

Regarding my calculations on the amount of cubic inches required, was I looking at that correct?
 
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