Converting a switched outlet to always-on
#1
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Converting a switched outlet to always-on
I recently moved into an old (1948) rental house. The bathroom has some sketchy wiring.
There are three electrical boxes.
The first box has two switches: one for the fan, one for the lights and an outlet.
The second box has a blank cover but contains some wiring.
The third box is the switched outlet.
I've attached a diagram here (sorry, I don't know what conventions are for drawing this stuff); also linked here: http://i.imgur.com/cwbfCII.png
I'd like to get the outlet off the switch so that it's always on. If that isn't practical, I'd like to put the light and fan together on one switch and the outlet by itself on the other switch, so it can be effectively left on.
There's one point in box 2 where a couple of wires are joined by tape. Should I be concerned by this?
I should mention that I'm probably on my own on this; my landlady doesn't care what I do to the house but refuses to hire professionals for anything.
There are three electrical boxes.
The first box has two switches: one for the fan, one for the lights and an outlet.
The second box has a blank cover but contains some wiring.
The third box is the switched outlet.
I've attached a diagram here (sorry, I don't know what conventions are for drawing this stuff); also linked here: http://i.imgur.com/cwbfCII.png
I'd like to get the outlet off the switch so that it's always on. If that isn't practical, I'd like to put the light and fan together on one switch and the outlet by itself on the other switch, so it can be effectively left on.
There's one point in box 2 where a couple of wires are joined by tape. Should I be concerned by this?
I should mention that I'm probably on my own on this; my landlady doesn't care what I do to the house but refuses to hire professionals for anything.
#2
Unfortunately you have no authority to make any changes to a rental. You need to have any repairs or changes made by going through the landlord. There are insurance and liability issues.
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With respect to the mod's valid point and good advice.... I'd tell you, as it is a DIY forum I think, IF it could safely determined from the information.
You did a nice drawing, it is just insufficient without fully testing all the wiring.... furthermore in an old 1948 system (probably ungrounded and likely "hacked" up over time) you can sure get some surprizes acting before you have fully tested and KNOW exactly what is going on.
It probably is a job for a qualified sparky, or a very well qualified friend. Sorry
As far as your taped connection (not wirenutted) in the blank box, it is likely an original soldered/taped 1948 connection. If it appears tight, and you have been having no issues, I would leave it alone.... but if you do have someone qualified out, I'd have them look at it.
Doubt it works for your use/configuration, and not exactly what you wanted, but you could put a pull chain bulb holder/device in the light socket, and leave the switch on..... if the light recep allows and the configuration works.
Good luck
You did a nice drawing, it is just insufficient without fully testing all the wiring.... furthermore in an old 1948 system (probably ungrounded and likely "hacked" up over time) you can sure get some surprizes acting before you have fully tested and KNOW exactly what is going on.
It probably is a job for a qualified sparky, or a very well qualified friend. Sorry
As far as your taped connection (not wirenutted) in the blank box, it is likely an original soldered/taped 1948 connection. If it appears tight, and you have been having no issues, I would leave it alone.... but if you do have someone qualified out, I'd have them look at it.
Doubt it works for your use/configuration, and not exactly what you wanted, but you could put a pull chain bulb holder/device in the light socket, and leave the switch on..... if the light recep allows and the configuration works.
Good luck