Wiring to a shed again

I know there have been a handful of these posts but I want to tailor it to mine to ensure I do it right. I have read lots of threads on this site and others so I will give you what I plan And know and have a few unanswered questions
Shed is 102 ft away from main breaker box in house. Breaker box has room for additional breaker. I only plan on running 1 interior light, 1 exterior motion light, 2 outlets 1 inside shed 1 outside shed. I don't plan on running any major tools only maybe a few lawn tools weed wacker maybe a drill. It's a storage shed not workshop.
I will run regular metal conduit 6 inches deep from box to shed with single wires
12awg 1 hot (black), 1 neutral (white). At shed wires will connect to a single pole light disconnect switch, then to gfci, then to other outlets and lights.
My questions are
(1) should I run 10awg because of distance shed is from main box? I can't figure out that electric calculator thing.
(2) If I run 10awg, can I or do I still use 20 amp breaker in box?
(3) if I run 10awg, once wires enter shed, can I connect 12awg wires to the 10awg and run then 12awg wires to the disconnect light switch and then to rest of outlets and lights to make it easier?
(4) should I run an insulated ground wire from breaker to shed and to all outlets?
I don't think I need a grounding rod since single circuit but I thought the metal pipes would be grounded to the main box since it connects to the main box?
(5) if I run ground wire does it connect to any open screw on neutral bus? I assume it doesn't connect to same screw as netrual wire.
Live in illinois USA
Thank you. Please let me know if you need additional info

 

If direct burial run 12-2 UF-b. It includes a bare ground. If you run PVC conduit #12 black, white, green. Unless you have a large motor to start #12 should be fine at 102 feet.

 

As Ray mentioned, I would use UF-B or PVC conduit. I believe EMT is rated for underground use, but I don't know why anyone would use it outside.

If you use THWN (single wires) in conduit, you'd bury it 18" below ground.
If you use UF-B, you need to bury 24"
If you use UF-B, but protected by a GFI in the main panel, you can bury only 12".

If you use a GFI in the main panel, it makes the digging easier, but of course everything in the shed will go off if the GFI trips. In my experience, GFIs don't have many nuisance trips these days, so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

If you use a normal breaker and a GFI in the shed, only the receptacles need to be GFI protected. The lights can be, but don't have to be.

As you said, no ground rod is required for a single circuit. If it's the main disconnect panel that you're connecting it to, the neutral and ground land on the same buss. The neutral wire needs it's own hole/screw, but the ground can usually be shared with one other ground wire.


Sounds like you have it planned out pretty well.

 

In your case, metal conduit 6 inches deep would be rigid galvanized threaded conduit. It's doable, but expensive and a difficult install, I'd use PVC conduit 18 inches deep or UF B direct burial cable, GFCI protected, 12 inches deep.

 

No, the 12-2/G should be OK up to 15A or more.

Not only can you, you must.

You can, but it's better practice to to continue the wiring to the disconnect.

Yes.

You won't need a ground rod at the shed unless your local jurisdiction requires one. They may. Ask them.

Metal water pipes with a bonding conductor are not being ground they are the ground.

What bus? You said you're running a single circuit, not a feed for a subpanel. Neutral and ground are always kept separate downstream from your service entrance.

 

Note if you run UF cable the ground will be bare, If you run PVC conduit the ground will be insulated. If you run IMC or RMC the conduit can serve as ground but best to run an insulated ground as an additional ground path. EMT is not recommended because it corrodes and rusts over time and because it is so thin it easily rusts through.

 

Thanks all for your advice and help. The only reason I was going to do metal conduit because ground here is made of clay and hard to dig. But if I rent a trench digger I will do the PVC conduit down to 18 inches below grade.

With that I have 3 questions I hope you can answer
(1) I assume I will use 1/2 PVC, does that go directly to main circuit breaker ( the PVC pipe goes to top of breaker box and then just wires of course to breaker)
(2) I will run a insulated ground wire to shed in PVC along
But what size ground wire ?
(3) I take I use regular PVC glue on pipes to make a good seal?

 

Or side or bottom, whatever is easier.

#12 (green).

No, you use solventcement for PVC conduit. You do not use primer. Yes you seal them but the conduit will eventually fill with water. That is expected. As you assemble and glue the conduit pull masons string through. After the cement sets* use the string to pull the wires in. Use plenty of lube.

*The cement must be fully set before pulling the wires in because solvent cement can damage the insulation on the wires.

 

For that distance, I'd recommend nothing smaller than 3/4" conduit. You'll regret using 1/2" when you try to pull the wire.

 

I finally have time to install electric with 3/4 pvc and following all guidelines below. 1 change though. I plan on running pipe through basement from one end to other to save digging up yard. So basically about 45 ft of pipe from box to other exterior wall then outside to shed from there.

Question is - I don't think I can run pvc across entire basement(45ft) and then out to shed. Against code?? Should I run metal conduit from box to right before exterior wall in basement, install a metal box and then pvc pipe from other end of metal box outside? Or metal pipe all the way outside to 18' deep, then metal box and then pvc all the way to shed? I hope I explained what I am trying to do.

Thanks again for everyone's help. It is much appreciated.

 

PVC is fine to run in a basement.

 

Thank you. I will have to see what I am going to do